Advice/Help with side-stay "anchors"(for want of a better term)

[LakeMurraySailor]

Hi Catalina 22 owners! My side stays have "anchors"(I really don't know what they are called but these fittings go through the deck of boat and hold the stays/turnbuckles in place). I apologize in advance for incorrect terminology and showing my ignorance. I have a 1976 model so these "anchors" have had 40 years of tension and need a backplate so that they do not pull through the deck(they are "dimpling" inside). Therein lies the problem. The ends(inside the cabin) are not long enough to add a backplate or even a large washer and put the nut back on. The Spring Series is coming up soon and I hope someone can tell me how to proceed with replacing/repairing these things. I suspect the core probably needs to be repaired and I will do that but I don't want these bolts to fail(pull through) in the meantime. Even when I repair the core I would worry about these things pulling through and making a mess of the deck! How should I proceed? I have some aluminum strips(approx. 1.5"x 4") that I'm going to use as backplates. Has anyone had this problem? If so, what was the remedy? I'll post pictures tomorrow!

 

[Bill Roosa]

chainplate
that is a tough problem. Stays are structure and (as you well know) you have to get it right. If the deck around the chain plates is going there are no "fun" options. Consider "going down to the hull" by attaching to the back side of the chainplate or spreading out (very large backing plate) the chain plate loads along the deck. Fixing the deck and replacing with existing hardware would make me want to consult with a pro. With that said the fiberglass is fiberglass and it is pretty tough stuff. Doing fiberglassing overhead has its own challanges and if you have never done it bring lots of drop cloth.

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

Hi Bill, I see you are "snowed-in" so good luck with that! Yes, it is a tough problem and I'm looking for a solution that will "spread the load" indeed but I will have to change the fittings and wonder what would work best? I've thought of using a bolt similar to the ones used as on the bow, I believe it's called a "twin-shank bow eye" and that would probably have the strength I need but may be unsightly on the deck! Got a better idea? Thanks!

 

[Bill Roosa]

A couple of thoughts, you do not want to make the stay to chainplate joint so strong that it holds fast while the chain plate pulls out of the deck proper. This leads to a big hole in the deck when you probably least need one. If the mast is going you do not want the deck going with it. This is a fail safe thought which may not apply to your boat use. With that said you need to understand how strong things are and what loads they will actuall see and then design the backing plate. slapping on a ramdomly sized backing plate may actually cause more problems than it fixes. the calculations are not hard but the devil is in the details so I would hesitate to provide my services as a structural engineer. Some best practices; round is better than square at uniformly spreading a load, thickness of the plate is a key factor as a really thick plate will not flex and cause load concentration around the edge, thin is just as bad as it does not spread the load all the way to the edge (tin foil effect), so there is a Goldlylocks thickness, the mating between the plate and deck bottom is important also as lots of boats have liners that are not actually structural and there is an additional backing plate above the liner on the bottom of the deck proper. You might want to inspect the latter as you may only appear to have a problem. Is the deck side of the chainplate flexing? without eyeballs on it is really hard to make recommendations.

 

[Stu Jackson]

It's part of the chainplates. Have you looked on Catalina Direct?

 

[Leeward Rail]

For the technical terms:
Forestay and backstay = hold the mast fore and aft.
Shrouds = hold the mast sideways.
Chainplates = Lower attachment point for the shrouds to deck and hull

So just to be clear... You are talking about the 4 chainplates for the lower shrouds ?

My 1987 New Design 22 boat already has backing plates for those 4.
From what I know, the factory simply used washers on the inside of the hull. That is, at least for the early series 22.

I wouldn't use aluminium for the backing plates because using Stainless Steel and aluminium together will cause corrosion.

I would just buy a set of 4 new chainplates from Catalina Direct, or a rigging hardware supplier.
CD has a upgraded chainplate eyebolt kit for around $160, with backing plates and larger diameter eyebolts
You might be able to get similar, for less, if you measure the ones you have and buy accordingly, but the CD kit would be convenient since it has everything.
(SBO store has nothing, and Garhauer Marine who have a lot of the rigging hardware for our boats doesn't have them either)

As you mention photos of the plates from inside and outside, will help people with giving advice on how to repair ,if needed.

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

Yes, it is attachment point to the deck for the shrouds! Thanks gentlemen! You certainly have given me lots of information, this forum is my go to place for expert advice! I just ordered the kit on CD: $178 and change with shipping. I found out the bolts were 3/8" on the original and the replacements are 1/2" so they will definitely be stronger and "mo' better"! Thank y'all for helping me not make an expensive mistake! I owe y'all one! By the way, I always thought "chainplate" was a term reserved for a shroud attachment to the hull below the deck. Thanks for letting me know that is not necessarily correct!

 

[Leeward Rail]

FWIW:

When you replace those eyebolt chainplates, I would pot those holes with epoxy, even if you find the core is ok.

If the core is solid once you drill them out to 1/2 inch, I'd use something like a dremel 1/4" Straight Router Bit, to cut ONLY the core back a further than the fiberglass. The shaft on the bit works as a guide against the fiberglass.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=654
Then tape up the bottom of the hole (to prevent epoxy leaking out), put a drop cloth under the holes inside the boat, fill the holes completely with epoxy, and then, once fully cured, redrill the holes to 1/2 inch again.
Doing that will not only help protect the core from rot due to leaks, but it will fill and bond any slightly rotted areas around the hole.