Adler-Barbour Refrigerator Thermostat

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Mar 6, 2013
7
Hunter 290 Marina Del Rey
Since I bought the Hunter 290 new in 2001, the refrigerator has been problematic, primarily due to the design and quality of the thermostat that Adler-Barbour uses to control the temperature of the box. The analog thermostat uses sensor that monitors the temperature of the evaporator, rather than the temperature of the box, as a home refrigerator does. The relationship between evaporator temperature and box temperature, while correlated, is not entirely predictable, and needs trial and error to get the box temperature right. Furthermore, when ice or frost builds up between the sensor and the coils, the relationship changes, and the sensor reads a temperature that is higher than the coil, causing the refrigerator to run constantly and driving the box to a lower than desired temperature, often freezing.

Short of a slow leak that developed a few years ago, the compressor works very well. We have been through three thermostats in the last year, and the last one was installed this summer ($160 parts and labor), and is now acting erratically.

I decided to take care of this problem once and for all by installing a digital controller with a thermocouple that measures refrigerator temperature directly. I bought a digital controller for $69 from Omega Engineering (model #CN4316-R1-R2) and a K-type thermocouple (model #HSTC-TT-K-20S-120) for $39. The controller needs to be configured, but it is a simple task for which I have detailed the parameters for below. I disconnected the analog thermostat from the compressor and connected them to terminals 6 & 7 on the controller. I applied power to terminals 1 & 2 on the controller, and connected the sensor to terminals 8 & 9. (red goes to 8, yellow goes to 9). I had to drill a small hole through the side of the refrigerator to get the sensor in. I put the sensor under a tray I keep in the ice box. You can put it anywhere you like, but if you leave it hanging out in the breeze, it will tend to cycle the compressor more than if you bury it in with your refrigerated goods. I cut a small hole in the front of the cabinet where the compressor is to mount the controller, configured it as shown below, and the ice box works perfectly. It cycles about 3 or 4 times an hour, but is holding the temperature at 35 - 39 degrees.

Configuration:

Temperature setpoint = 35
CtrL = onoF
Srun = run
Act = dr
Ctl = 300 (this will prevent your compressor from cycling more than once than every 300 seconds)
CHYS = 4 (this means that the temperature will not be allowed to vary by more than 4 degrees above the set point)
InP = 0
dPt = 0.0
FILt = 40
Fru = 60F
Opt = rELy

Leave all other parameters at their default.
 

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Feb 10, 2004
3,943
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I share your sentiment about the A-B thermostats although Richard Kollmann (refrigeration expert) recommends the mechanical bulb-type OEM thermostat for reliability reasons. I too have replaced thermostats that either did not seem to work correctly or that I couldn't achieve the desired temperature stability, and I have thought about changing to an electronic unit like you have done.

So I have a couple questions: First, how long have you run with this electronic thermostat? Second, does the compressor run about the same amount, or more, or less than with the OEM thermostat? Third, you advise to put the temp probe out of the "breeze", but I have a circulation fan in my box that runs 24/7 and maintains the box a t a uniform temperature and I would think that having the thermostat control the temperature of the breeze would be better than behind a container of food. Your opinion on this situation?
 
Mar 6, 2013
7
Hunter 290 Marina Del Rey
Good questions

Hello Rich,

These are good questions.

First, a thermocouple is about the most simple device you can think of. It consists of two dissimilar metals welded together. They create a tiny electric current that is proportional to their temperature. In other words, there are no moving parts. In my 20+ years of professional engineering experience, I have never seen one fail unless it was subjected to some type of abuse (ie. caught in a fan or something).

I have been running this now for a little over a week with no issues.

The compressor is running about 50% duty cycle right now. This is purely a function of how much heat the refrigerator has to dump (ie. how good the box insulation is) and how efficient the compressor is. If the thermostat is doing what a thermostat should do, it should have no bearing on the duty cycle.

If you are using a fan, that won't affect the duty cycle. (ie. the percent of the time the compressor is on). What it will do is increase the frequency with which the compressor cycles. So, without a fan, your compressor might be off for 15 minutes, and then on for 15 minutes. With a fan, it might be off for 5 minutes, and then on for 5 minutes.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.
 
Feb 10, 2004
3,943
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Thanks for your answers. Since you are in a warm climate, will you be running your refrigerator between now and next May? If so, I would like to contact you for an update on the performance and any negative issues that may arise.
 
Mar 6, 2013
7
Hunter 290 Marina Del Rey
BTW, yes, I will be keeping the boat in the water throughout the winter. Be happy to update you.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,780
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Thanks for the good idea. FWIW, our OEM thermostat has been working just fine since 1986. :) Guess they just don't make 'em the way they used to...
 
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