Adler Barbour refrigerator died

[Yoda]

I've posted a similar message on sailnet dot com. After using my 1988 Catalina 30 on July 4 weekend, I failed to switch on my AC master breaker after connecting shore power. After being away for 2 weeks, I discover my refrigerator is not working when I return. Discovered the "off" AC switch, checked the battery voltages (2 group 27 wet cells) and realized the batteries had received no charge for 2 weeks with refrigerator running in 100 degree Dallas heat.
I have replaced the 2 batteries, but the refrigerator still will not run. Did I manage to kill the frig with low voltage condition? I'm not knowledgable at all about electrical problems diagnoses, but do have a voltage/amperage tester if someone can direct me on where to start....

 

[Rick D]

Try This Link

Richard Kollmann is an author of a guide on Marine refrigeration and has a website where you may get the help you need. Good luck.

 

[Benny]

The good news is that these units have a

low voltage protection cutoff. The bad news is that in older units a coincidental failure cannot be ruled out. Bite the bullet and get a technician out there. Hopefully it is a part that went bad or a switch that failed to reset.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Check the fuses, first

There should be one on your electrical DC panel, and another one on the unit electrical module. Both should be 10A, the panel one is probably 15A. Also check the wiring connections at the unit, they tend to get sloppy due to the top entry of the wiring. Check to see if your fan is running. If not, it could be causing the stoppage. Find out if the fan is working by connection 12V directly to it, Check the voltage at the unit. All sorts of troubleshooting in the manual. Do you have one? If not let me know, I think I scanned it in a few years ago.

 

[Gary Kunkel]

Also try the connections

We also have an '88 Catalina 30 w/ Adler Barber fridge. After trying most every other fix, we finally solved our refrigerator problems by removing the corroded ends of the wiring that lead to the compressor from the DC panel. That was causing just enough voltage drop to prevent the thing from running. After we cut off the corroded ends and put on new lugs, the thing started running again and now has run fine for about 5 years with no trouble. It's at least worth a look since it costs nothing and (as it was in our case) could be the source of trouble.

Gary

 

[Pat]

I had a 1986 boat with same ...

refrig and the fuse on the module that Stu refers to was hard to find. If I remember it is hidden under a plastic opaque cover. The fuse is the newer color coded plastic plug type, not the round glass type.
On my present boat I had to replace the module and that was approx. $300 two years ago.
Good luck.

 

[Yoda]

Okay, consensus seems to be electical....

I sincerely appreciate all the responses - at least I'm now optimistic that I may not be facing total replacement and it's likely electrical in nature and not a dead compressor.
Will check connections and fuses first (if I can find them)and check the fan operability.
Pat - how did you conclude that the module needed replacement?

 

[Stu Jackson]

The fuse on our older 1986 module

is right in front, regular 10A glass fuse, easy to find.

To figure out what's going on with the module, only if necessary, check Richard K's website mentioned earlier and go to WAECO.com. Gary at WAECO is very helpful. A replacement module can be obtained from WAECO or less expensively from someone in the Florida, name escapes me, someone else may know, if not I'll find it.

 

[Yoda]

Troubleshooting tips

Stu,
Thanks! I won't be able to get to the boat until sometime next week, but I'll start with locating and checking the fuse and fan. I probably have the owner's manual on board somewhere, but if not I would like to take you up on your offer to scan and email your manual.