I have an Adler Barbour Cold Plate refrigeration system that I believe to be the OE and should be a 1987 model. It appears to be a model 20A. It has worked well until 2 days ago when it stopped cooling. I noticed the cooling fan was not working and also the amp use dropped from the usual 15 to 5. Is it possible the system overheated and the coolant escaped? Is there any troubleshooting I can do before calling a Tech? Thank you for your help.
Adler Barbour Refrig
- Thread starter Lowell14687
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If power usage has dropped then it is likely that the compressor is not running. Feel for heat on the unit. No heat no run. If it is using 15 amps when healthy you may be ready for a new unit.
Troubleshoot
I don't have that model, so I am just thinking systematically: Does it have a fuse on the unit where the fan is? Mine has a fuse separate from the one at the panel.
The drop in amp draw could indicate that not all components, most likely the compressor are no longer drawing curent. You might just have a fan or two running and the compressor idle either from a blown fuse or failure of the compressor. Some systems use a low-pressure switch to protect the compressor. If pressure is low, oil that is supposed to circulate with the freon will not, and so to protect the compressor they don't let it run.
Any recent damage in ice-box? Did anyone try to chip frost with a knife or screwdriver and puncture the cold-plate coils (my girlfriend did that nce).
The low draw could just be low pressure and thus no load on the comprssor as well.
Best way to TS is with a manifold gauge set. But you need to know how to connect without introducing air or releasing freon. You will release a small bit if you connect properly (purging the line of air). Challenge with a 1987 unit is that it most likely runs on R12 that you probably cannot get anywhere.
You could convert to newer compatible refrigerant, but you need to evacuate the entire system with a vacum pump to do so. SO if you don't have the gear, might as well call the tech.
Do you see any oil around any of the fittings or lines? If so, you have a leak.
I don't have that model, so I am just thinking systematically: Does it have a fuse on the unit where the fan is? Mine has a fuse separate from the one at the panel.
The drop in amp draw could indicate that not all components, most likely the compressor are no longer drawing curent. You might just have a fan or two running and the compressor idle either from a blown fuse or failure of the compressor. Some systems use a low-pressure switch to protect the compressor. If pressure is low, oil that is supposed to circulate with the freon will not, and so to protect the compressor they don't let it run.
Any recent damage in ice-box? Did anyone try to chip frost with a knife or screwdriver and puncture the cold-plate coils (my girlfriend did that nce).
The low draw could just be low pressure and thus no load on the comprssor as well.
Best way to TS is with a manifold gauge set. But you need to know how to connect without introducing air or releasing freon. You will release a small bit if you connect properly (purging the line of air). Challenge with a 1987 unit is that it most likely runs on R12 that you probably cannot get anywhere.
You could convert to newer compatible refrigerant, but you need to evacuate the entire system with a vacum pump to do so. SO if you don't have the gear, might as well call the tech.
Re: Troubleshoot
Thanks for the input. The compressor appears to be running, it gets hot. I have not seen oil anywhere on the unit. There has been no recent damage to the icebox, however it has been off for approximately 4 months. We don't use it at the dock. The first day I turned it on it worked fine but the problems started a day later.
Thanks for the input. The compressor appears to be running, it gets hot. I have not seen oil anywhere on the unit. There has been no recent damage to the icebox, however it has been off for approximately 4 months. We don't use it at the dock. The first day I turned it on it worked fine but the problems started a day later.
Re: Troubleshoot
Good luck. I had a tech change to R134A. It cost me my unit. They don't convert well. He changed it to 409A but the damage was done. Put in a SeaFrost unit and am satisfied with it, but it would not have been necessary if the tech hadn't used an incompatible refrigerant.
Good luck. I had a tech change to R134A. It cost me my unit. They don't convert well. He changed it to 409A but the damage was done. Put in a SeaFrost unit and am satisfied with it, but it would not have been necessary if the tech hadn't used an incompatible refrigerant.
AB
A few years ago the Control Module failed on our 1991 AB refrigerator unit. Different symptoms than you describe here. My point is I called AB tech support and after describing the symptoms they recommended that I replace the CM. The new unit cost $150 and it was plug and play. I keep both units running 24/7 and that was six years ago.
When we purchased our boat in 2002 the freezer unit would not freeze. The marina technician had a supply of R12 that he kept for such repairs and for $50 he recharged the system. It still is doing the job to this day. My point here is you can hire a tech to do all the work, or you can start with AB tech support and perhaps they can save you some time and money.
Terry Cox
A few years ago the Control Module failed on our 1991 AB refrigerator unit. Different symptoms than you describe here. My point is I called AB tech support and after describing the symptoms they recommended that I replace the CM. The new unit cost $150 and it was plug and play. I keep both units running 24/7 and that was six years ago.
When we purchased our boat in 2002 the freezer unit would not freeze. The marina technician had a supply of R12 that he kept for such repairs and for $50 he recharged the system. It still is doing the job to this day. My point here is you can hire a tech to do all the work, or you can start with AB tech support and perhaps they can save you some time and money.
Terry Cox
Cooling Fan
Look at the fan it probably quit. put a small fan blowing right on the unit if it runs and cools then it is the fan on the unit that needs replacing.
Look at the fan it probably quit. put a small fan blowing right on the unit if it runs and cools then it is the fan on the unit that needs replacing.
A/B Diagnostics
Good input. You need to be organized about your detective work.
Here's a link to an online A/B manual: http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Adler-Barbour IO Manual.pdf
Another helpful source of parts: http://www.rparts.com/
Another very helpful guy: http://www.kollmann-marine.com/ He can and actually will talk you through it on the phone!
Fan -- if it's not running, check the wiring connections first. You can also check the fan integrity by disconnecting the wiring from the module and connecting to another power source, like two wires directly from the battery. If you need to replace the fan, it's $45 from a refrigeration supply house, but only $25 from Radio Shack: 4 inch 12 V DC fan #2730238. You'll need longer mounting machine screws since the fan is deeper.
Fuses: there's one right in the front of the module. 10A glass fuse, change it anyway while you're there, even if it looks good. My 1986 unit has a spare fuse in a plastic baggy right there!
Oil - you checked already. Unless your unit has been working worse and worse over a period of time, noticeably by having less cooling on the evaporator (in the fridge), then you would have had to have had a catastrophic failure of the seals on your connections or a pipe leak. That's good news that it looks fine.
NEVER change or mix refrigerants, don't let anyone ever try to talk you into it, it will NOT work. Rich found out the hard way. Also, never change just the compressor end without changing the tubing and evaporator, that won't work either - our local refrigeration guy told me that story, about how he caved into a customer, and ended up with an unhappy customer who conveniently "forgot" that he was the one who'd insisted on "saving $$" by only replacing the compressor! R12 is still available: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5084.0.html
Another good forensic story is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3259.0.htmlI don't think mixing refrigerants is a good idea.
Replacement electronic modules: ten years ago the WAECO guys knew their stuff, since then they've been bought and sold and I haven't heard any great reports that they've kept the guys who knew anything, but I could be wrong, so check with them.
Best way to TS is with a manifold gauge set --- If you have the proper connections, that is, you may not have them. See my C34 links for discussion.
There's a less expensive replacement module available from somewhere in Florida, I can't put my finger on it right now. Someone else here may know, I'll keep looking in my files.
15 A sounds very high. Normal run is 5A, runs about 50% of the time once it's cooled off inside the box, so that's where the 60 ah per day comes from for energy budgets. In fact 15A is nuts because the cold machines come with 10A fuses, unless your model 20A is way bigger than our cold machine, yours is 1987, ours is only a year older. Where have you been reading 15A?
You said: we don't use it at the dock. These units are sensitive to low voltage. Is your house bank in good shape?? Have you tried the fridge with the shorepower connected and ON? What's the voltage at the fridge when it's not working?
Good luck, let us know what you found out, so we can keep up our forensic "library".
Good input. You need to be organized about your detective work.
Here's a link to an online A/B manual: http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Adler-Barbour IO Manual.pdf
Another helpful source of parts: http://www.rparts.com/
Another very helpful guy: http://www.kollmann-marine.com/ He can and actually will talk you through it on the phone!
Fan -- if it's not running, check the wiring connections first. You can also check the fan integrity by disconnecting the wiring from the module and connecting to another power source, like two wires directly from the battery. If you need to replace the fan, it's $45 from a refrigeration supply house, but only $25 from Radio Shack: 4 inch 12 V DC fan #2730238. You'll need longer mounting machine screws since the fan is deeper.
Fuses: there's one right in the front of the module. 10A glass fuse, change it anyway while you're there, even if it looks good. My 1986 unit has a spare fuse in a plastic baggy right there!
Oil - you checked already. Unless your unit has been working worse and worse over a period of time, noticeably by having less cooling on the evaporator (in the fridge), then you would have had to have had a catastrophic failure of the seals on your connections or a pipe leak. That's good news that it looks fine.
NEVER change or mix refrigerants, don't let anyone ever try to talk you into it, it will NOT work. Rich found out the hard way. Also, never change just the compressor end without changing the tubing and evaporator, that won't work either - our local refrigeration guy told me that story, about how he caved into a customer, and ended up with an unhappy customer who conveniently "forgot" that he was the one who'd insisted on "saving $$" by only replacing the compressor! R12 is still available: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5084.0.html
Another good forensic story is here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3259.0.htmlI don't think mixing refrigerants is a good idea.
Replacement electronic modules: ten years ago the WAECO guys knew their stuff, since then they've been bought and sold and I haven't heard any great reports that they've kept the guys who knew anything, but I could be wrong, so check with them.
Best way to TS is with a manifold gauge set --- If you have the proper connections, that is, you may not have them. See my C34 links for discussion.
There's a less expensive replacement module available from somewhere in Florida, I can't put my finger on it right now. Someone else here may know, I'll keep looking in my files.
15 A sounds very high. Normal run is 5A, runs about 50% of the time once it's cooled off inside the box, so that's where the 60 ah per day comes from for energy budgets. In fact 15A is nuts because the cold machines come with 10A fuses, unless your model 20A is way bigger than our cold machine, yours is 1987, ours is only a year older. Where have you been reading 15A?
You said: we don't use it at the dock. These units are sensitive to low voltage. Is your house bank in good shape?? Have you tried the fridge with the shorepower connected and ON? What's the voltage at the fridge when it's not working?
Good luck, let us know what you found out, so we can keep up our forensic "library".
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I think I'd just replace the unit for a modern one. Your AB is over twenty years old; you put money into it and something else goes. Plus, 15 amps is a lot. Modern unit draw far less, are less bulky, and better controlled. You might want to increase the insulation on the box, too. This is if you're going to keep the boat, tho.
Larry, my DCM-12 is 22 years old and is still working just fine. I think your suggestion is an OPTION for Lowell to consider, after he plays detective.
Solution, I hope
Thanks to everyone for the helpful input. I shut the refrig down for the weekend and Monday when I started it the amp draw was back to normal. The fan was still not working. I connected it directly to a battery and still no go, so I placed a small 110v one in front of the condenser. I checked the refrig 7 hours later, it was off and had ice in the freezer and the refrig was at 38 degrees. Checked it again on Tuesday and everything seems fine. I ordered a fan from RParts.com for 27.95. As soon as I get it I'll install it and head south. Thanks again, Lowell
Thanks to everyone for the helpful input. I shut the refrig down for the weekend and Monday when I started it the amp draw was back to normal. The fan was still not working. I connected it directly to a battery and still no go, so I placed a small 110v one in front of the condenser. I checked the refrig 7 hours later, it was off and had ice in the freezer and the refrig was at 38 degrees. Checked it again on Tuesday and everything seems fine. I ordered a fan from RParts.com for 27.95. As soon as I get it I'll install it and head south. Thanks again, Lowell
AB back
Thanks, Terry, glad we could help. I've bookmarked it for the enxt question that is bound to come up.
Lowell, glad you're back in business.
Thanks, Terry, glad we could help. I've bookmarked it for the enxt question that is bound to come up.
Lowell, glad you're back in business.
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