The main sail topping lift on my boat is somewhat of a minor nuisance that I am trying to solve. Right now my boat has a wire topping lift that runs from the masthead to a pin at the end of the boom. The problem with a fixed length topping lift is that it is either too short or too long. I find many times in heavy air when I want to tighten up on the leech that the topping lift is too short and it takes the load of the main sheet and hence I still have a loose twisted main. So my solution to that was to remove the wire and attach an added length of line to the wire topping lift which solves my heavy air problem. But now I find that in light air when I want alot of twist, with main sheet and vang eased and the boom lifted up, now the topping lift becomes way too long and annoyingly bangs against the sail. I am considering rigging an adjustable topping lift that will allow me to shorten the topping lift when needed and lengthen when needed. I have thought of two ways of doing this. One way involves attaching a rope tail to the end of the wire topping lift and running the line through a block at the end of the boom and then cleating the line off somewhere on the boom. The only problem with this setup is that someone has to go to the base of the mast to adjust the line. Or you could run the line back to the cockpit, but that takes up precious space for other more important lines. I am considering attaching a line to the end of the boom and running that line up through a block and the mast head and then back down along the backstay to a cleat on the transom. With this setup the line can be adjusted from the cockpit without taking up any of the limited space on the coach roof. The only drawback I see is the extra windage and weight aloft from the extra mast head block and instead of just the windage from the wire one line topping lift now there will be double the windage from two lines (one line going up and one line going down). Does anyone think this last option is a bad idea? Is there anything I haven't thought about? Thanks for your help.
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Steve
Solid Boom Vang
This goes under "anything that I haven't thought of?" It might be a bit more expensive than you want, but it would solve the problem.
This goes under "anything that I haven't thought of?" It might be a bit more expensive than you want, but it would solve the problem.
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Mike
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Greg S2
That's strange!
No adjustment in the topping lift? That can’t be right. I would shorten the wire and install a short 2 or 3:1 block system at the end of the boom. You can run the control line forward to the mast or where ever either inside the boom if manageable or along the side of the boom. The topping lift control line should end in the same area as your reef lines.
No adjustment in the topping lift? That can’t be right. I would shorten the wire and install a short 2 or 3:1 block system at the end of the boom. You can run the control line forward to the mast or where ever either inside the boom if manageable or along the side of the boom. The topping lift control line should end in the same area as your reef lines.
Topping lift mod.
Anthony: An easy solution is to cut off the boom end of the wire on the topping lift and swedge a loop into it. Then get a small block. You can then rig a line from the end of the boom up through the block and back to the boom through another cheek block or an eye to a cleat. The other solution is to go to a rigid vang. You are probably looking at $20-40 for modifying the topping lift vs. $300 plus for a rigid vang.
Anthony: An easy solution is to cut off the boom end of the wire on the topping lift and swedge a loop into it. Then get a small block. You can then rig a line from the end of the boom up through the block and back to the boom through another cheek block or an eye to a cleat. The other solution is to go to a rigid vang. You are probably looking at $20-40 for modifying the topping lift vs. $300 plus for a rigid vang.
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Tom
Rigid Boom Vang
Hi, I have an adjustable topping lift on my H260 and it still drives me crazy. I have ordered a rigid vang from Garhauer (recommended by many on this site) and will remove the topping lift altogether. The cost for this is about $190. See the link below. You can request an option to have a cam cleat added (like on a typical vang) so that no additional hardware is needed on the cabintop. The line, block and cleat on the boom for the topping lift will be used to add a second reef point control line. Fair winds... Tom
Hi, I have an adjustable topping lift on my H260 and it still drives me crazy. I have ordered a rigid vang from Garhauer (recommended by many on this site) and will remove the topping lift altogether. The cost for this is about $190. See the link below. You can request an option to have a cam cleat added (like on a typical vang) so that no additional hardware is needed on the cabintop. The line, block and cleat on the boom for the topping lift will be used to add a second reef point control line. Fair winds... Tom
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Ray Bowles
Anthony, On my 95 H26 the topping lift is the
port line leading out the aft end of the boom. I have a 5/16 or 3/8 inch line that starts at the top of the mast and comes down to about 1 1/2 to 2 feet above the rear of the boom and ends in a bowline knot. The line comming out of the aft end of the boom on the port side rises up to this loop and attaches by way of a sliding clip. The topping life and boom height is controlled by this line and it cleats/jam locks at the boom gooseneck. This makes a very solid and permenant solution for the topping lift function. Solid vangs, boom kickers etc are great replacement items but also cost money. Money I'd rather spend on spinnakers and such as long as my topping lift performs reasonable well as it does. Ray S/V Speedy
port line leading out the aft end of the boom. I have a 5/16 or 3/8 inch line that starts at the top of the mast and comes down to about 1 1/2 to 2 feet above the rear of the boom and ends in a bowline knot. The line comming out of the aft end of the boom on the port side rises up to this loop and attaches by way of a sliding clip. The topping life and boom height is controlled by this line and it cleats/jam locks at the boom gooseneck. This makes a very solid and permenant solution for the topping lift function. Solid vangs, boom kickers etc are great replacement items but also cost money. Money I'd rather spend on spinnakers and such as long as my topping lift performs reasonable well as it does. Ray S/V Speedy
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Mike
boomkicker
I'm with Tom............I went the rigid vang route which opened up another line in the boom for your second reefing point. This would solve your topping lift and reefing line problems at the same time.
I'm with Tom............I went the rigid vang route which opened up another line in the boom for your second reefing point. This would solve your topping lift and reefing line problems at the same time.
Taking Steve Dion's idea one step further...
Cut the wire and swage in a loop as Steve said. Then tie or clip a piece of 3/8" dacron line to the loop and run it through a small swivel block shackled to the end of the boom (a cheek block on the side of the boom might work too). Run the line forward to the gooseneck, where you a small jam, clam or cam cleat mounted on the boom will hold the line secure but stil allow easy adjustment when needed. This is essentially the setup on the wing-keel H23, except the line runs forward inside the boom. In order to reef the sails quickly and efficiently, the end of the topping lift has to be at the gooseneck, not back in the cockpit. In addition, the topping lift shouldn't affect your ability to adjust leech or mainsheet tension while under way. Once the mainsail is raised, the topping lift should be eased far enough so that even with the mainsheet hard it is still free. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
Cut the wire and swage in a loop as Steve said. Then tie or clip a piece of 3/8" dacron line to the loop and run it through a small swivel block shackled to the end of the boom (a cheek block on the side of the boom might work too). Run the line forward to the gooseneck, where you a small jam, clam or cam cleat mounted on the boom will hold the line secure but stil allow easy adjustment when needed. This is essentially the setup on the wing-keel H23, except the line runs forward inside the boom. In order to reef the sails quickly and efficiently, the end of the topping lift has to be at the gooseneck, not back in the cockpit. In addition, the topping lift shouldn't affect your ability to adjust leech or mainsheet tension while under way. Once the mainsail is raised, the topping lift should be eased far enough so that even with the mainsheet hard it is still free. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Anthony Bavuso
Thanks for all your comments.
The boat is an 85 Hunter 25.5. And regarding the rigid vang, this would be a great solution if my boat didn't have a poptop. Unless I understand wrong then the rigid vang will interfere with the operation of the poptop which is essential on those hot summer nights.
The boat is an 85 Hunter 25.5. And regarding the rigid vang, this would be a great solution if my boat didn't have a poptop. Unless I understand wrong then the rigid vang will interfere with the operation of the poptop which is essential on those hot summer nights.
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Tom
Pop Top solution
It is probably possible to disconnect the rigid vang from either the boom or mast base (or both) for pop top clearance. Quick install, removal is important to me for trailering, and Garhauer has assured me it is as easy as removing two bolts to take the whole rigid vang off. Assuming you are not sailing at the time, your main halyard could become your temporary topping lift to keep the boom up. Fair winds... Tom
It is probably possible to disconnect the rigid vang from either the boom or mast base (or both) for pop top clearance. Quick install, removal is important to me for trailering, and Garhauer has assured me it is as easy as removing two bolts to take the whole rigid vang off. Assuming you are not sailing at the time, your main halyard could become your temporary topping lift to keep the boom up. Fair winds... Tom
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Dan
rigid vang
I also have a 1985 25.5 and plan to switch to a rigid vang this spring. I have a boomkicker on my Hunter 22 but I don't think that will work as well for the 25.5 because of the need for a separate vang and limited space to mount it all. Right now I am considering one of the Garhauer rigid vangs and will set it up with some type of quick release pin at the base of the mast so I can pop the top. When doing this I will use the main halyard to support the boom.
I also have a 1985 25.5 and plan to switch to a rigid vang this spring. I have a boomkicker on my Hunter 22 but I don't think that will work as well for the 25.5 because of the need for a separate vang and limited space to mount it all. Right now I am considering one of the Garhauer rigid vangs and will set it up with some type of quick release pin at the base of the mast so I can pop the top. When doing this I will use the main halyard to support the boom.
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Joe Baker
Garhauer, Garhauer, Garhauer!!!!!!!
Have had 2 and have seen many! It is one of the best ways to spend $200!! The ability to adjust sail shape is unbelievable!
Have had 2 and have seen many! It is one of the best ways to spend $200!! The ability to adjust sail shape is unbelievable!
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Anthony Bavuso
Rigid Vang Concerns
The idea about a quick release rigid vang has merit. I didn't realize that quick release setups existed. Thanks for the info. I have some more concerns about a rigid vang that you all might be able to help me with. When we run aground which happens at least several times a season her in the Chesapeake Bay (all sand and mud, nothing hurt but ego and bottom paint), many times just backing off with the motor works. But for the times that backing off will not work, one quick and easy technique that we have had success with, is putting a large heavy dead weight (namely me) out on the end of the boom and swinging the boom out as far as she will go. The heeling caused by the dead weight on the boom in concert with the engine in reverse often gets us clear with little fuss. Now my concern is could such a thing be done if one had a rigid vang instead of a topping lift? It seems that with the leverage created by the boom and the small angle that the vang subtends, it would create and unfair load on the rigid vang and the boom for that matter. Whereas with the topping lift due the geometry, it is no sweat. Any comments? Thanks for everyone's comments.
The idea about a quick release rigid vang has merit. I didn't realize that quick release setups existed. Thanks for the info. I have some more concerns about a rigid vang that you all might be able to help me with. When we run aground which happens at least several times a season her in the Chesapeake Bay (all sand and mud, nothing hurt but ego and bottom paint), many times just backing off with the motor works. But for the times that backing off will not work, one quick and easy technique that we have had success with, is putting a large heavy dead weight (namely me) out on the end of the boom and swinging the boom out as far as she will go. The heeling caused by the dead weight on the boom in concert with the engine in reverse often gets us clear with little fuss. Now my concern is could such a thing be done if one had a rigid vang instead of a topping lift? It seems that with the leverage created by the boom and the small angle that the vang subtends, it would create and unfair load on the rigid vang and the boom for that matter. Whereas with the topping lift due the geometry, it is no sweat. Any comments? Thanks for everyone's comments.
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Jon Bastien / H25 'Adagio'
Anthony...
If you're worried about breaking mast/boom/rigid vang in this scenario, there's another solution. Attach the main halyard to the end of the boom when you need to swing the 'large heavy dead weight' out over the side, and make it fast at the mast. This would put the geometric angles back to something VERY close to what you had with a topping lift, and wouldn't require any extra rigging. --JB
If you're worried about breaking mast/boom/rigid vang in this scenario, there's another solution. Attach the main halyard to the end of the boom when you need to swing the 'large heavy dead weight' out over the side, and make it fast at the mast. This would put the geometric angles back to something VERY close to what you had with a topping lift, and wouldn't require any extra rigging. --JB
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Anthony Bavuso
Thanks Jon
Using the main halyard would definitely solve the problem. Wow, so simple and right in front of my face. Someone even suggested that before but for a different purpose. Well thanks all for your input. I am definitely going to have to consider a rigid vang. Thanks.
Using the main halyard would definitely solve the problem. Wow, so simple and right in front of my face. Someone even suggested that before but for a different purpose. Well thanks all for your input. I am definitely going to have to consider a rigid vang. Thanks.
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