Adjustable Outboard Bracket?

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Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
I did a search on this topic & didn't find much, so I'm asking the collected wisdom for their experience/opinions on this issue. My o/b is a 2-cycle 6 HP Yachtwin model that I believe the PO got with the original boat (‘93). I believe it's a regular shaft. There are two problems I perceive for which I’m contemplating installing an adjustable o/b bracket. 1) It just doesn't bite down far enough into the water. I can't go forward without at least a little cavitation, even in fairly calm conditions, so the Admiral and/or kids are always being tasked with deploying ground tackle or collecting the jib or other jobs on the foredeck (in itself, not a real problem ;) ). We seem to make good enough speed under power, but I still think the prop should be lower. We haven't yet encountered many heavy seas while motoring, so I can't really comment on cavitation in those conditions. I know I could just get a long shaft motor, but a bracket seems a heckuva lot cheaper option! 2) The o/b seems to have some forward lean to it even though it's on the pin setting furthest forward. What I mean by "forward lean" is the prop is slightly aft of the head. Even if I had an additional setting available to make it more of an upright angle, the deck/hull joint of the "sugar scoop" would prevent the prop end from moving any further forward. (I'm not really versant in engine issues, so perhaps this is the correct orientation already. Somehow I'm thinking if you get the o/b humming, the bow will plane a little, so the angle will be correct, but on the other hand we're talking a sailboat here, not a Chriscraft.) I'm formulating the notion that an adjustable o/b bracket attached to the existing wooden bracket in the engine well would solve these issues. Our last boat also had a regular shaft o/b, but it came with the adjustable bracket & it made a big difference. It would allow the o/b to get much further down & interference with the transom would be a non-issue. It could also be angled more upright. When I tilt up the o/b after cutting the engine currently, the clearance out of the water is fine. So I'm not concerned about that aspect, though I do need to turn the engine head just so to be able to get enough swing to engage the tilt lock. A bracket would alleviate that minor issue. One of the concerns the archives raised in the only discussion I could find on this topic was that the wooden fixed mount might fail -- between the weight of the bracket itself in addition to the leverage being generated by moving the o/b further aft. Another issue I’ve contemplated in this regard is if the lines/aesthetics of the boat might be impacted negatively. Thoughts? As always, any useful input will be greatly appreciated! ~ Kevin s/v Grasshopper Brownsville, VT
 

Johann

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Jun 3, 2004
560
Leopard 39 Pensacola
Thoughts

1. A bracket may put the motor to far aft to operate comfortably (without remote control). 2. An aft mounted bracket with a 50lb motor on it may create more torque than the motor mount is designed for (from the weight of the motor bouncing around in seas). 3. You may swamp your motor in moderate seas. 4. It would be ugly. 5. 18 years old? Time for a new motor. I have a 23.5 that until this year was powered by a long shaft 4hp suzuki (1994). Often the prop would come out of the water in large waves. I now have it in the gulf, and put a new "ultra long shaft" 6hp tohatsu on it. Definitely worth the dough. The ultra long also comes standard with a charger. Works great! Just MHO, but I'd deal with it and save my pennies (ok twenties...) until I could get a new motor...
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
Thanks, Jo

Jo, thanks for sharing your thinking and the link. ~ Kevin
 
Jun 28, 2005
440
Hunter H33 2004 Mumford Cove,CT & Block Island
Problem reaching controls

The big issue, is accessing shift/tilt controls, much harder from a bracket lower than the existing one, during docking. This is only necessary during docking, but manning the tiller and working the shift/throttle would be a task. Best solution is 25" shaft, and a single lever remote control, an alternator is a plus. Occasionally a used OB shows up at a good price. (Especially after you have just bought one) If docking is not too tough a situation for you, skip the remote control. My old 23.5 came with an 8HP 2cycle Merc, shift and throttle were on handle, great for docking, but its 15" shaft and cavitation, made it useless for anything else, it could never be relied on to bring the boat home in any kind of waves. With any motor, check out the shift to see how ackward/easy it is to reach from the boat tiller, some are in front, some are on the side. It can be a real challenge to co-ordinate boat direction and speed at critical docking moments. Also check how easy the tilt mechanism works and imagine leaning over in a rolling sea to do it.
 
J

Jack h23.5

Mine came with..

a long shaft 8 hp merc 2 stroke. It works great even in waves. The twin cyl 8hp 2 stroke is much smoother than the single cyl 4 strokes.. For that reason, I'd go with a twin cyl if you can find one. I think Yamaha makes a twin cyl 4 stroke 6 hp motor. I'm going to keep mine running as long as they'll let me with the 2 stroke.
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
Suset for 2-cycles?

Thanks, Clarence & Jack. Jack you broach an important subject: Does anyone know when 2-cycles will be "outlawed?"
 
J

Jack h23.5

I think its a local thing, not the Feds..

So certain lakes have already banned them, and most of the manufacturers have stopped makeing them.. Except Evenrude which has that new clean 2 stroke. Rumor has it that they are going to start making small 2 stroke clean engines based on that same technology. By restricting emissions on the engines they sell, ultimately that will accomplish the same thing as banning them from use. I really don't use my motor that much, so for me fixing my old 2 stroke makes a lot of sense. It has very little hours and starts on the first pull.
 
Jun 22, 2004
71
Hunter 240 GREENVILLE,SC
motor mount

The magazine Practical Sailor just did a studt on outboard brakets that was pretty informative. You might want to look at that before you make a decision.
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
Thanks, BART

I'll try & track it down. On balance, I'm thinking this idea is a pass...
 
Oct 19, 2006
337
Hunter 27-3 Brownsville, VT/Mystic, CT
Garelick 71095

BART, I took a quick look at the headline/thumbnail provided on the Practical Sailor website. They rate the Garelick 71095 as the best. It's fantastic. * Effortless operation – raises and lowers auxiliary motors in less than 20 seconds * 12 volt self contained marinized hydraulic actuator * Designed for 4-Stroke motors, wide stance provides stability * Two models – handles up to 40 H.P. motors * Heavy duty 1/2" thick 6061T6 structural aluminum extrusion * Triple coat protective finish (anodized, E Coat, powder coated) * Aircraft stainless steel hardware and engineered bronze bushings at pivot points for increased ease of operation and durability * 2000 lbs.. tensile strength motor safety cable included * 1/2 - 20 x 4 1/2" stainless steel mounting hardware included * Wiring harness and operating control switch included Only one problem: IT COSTS $1,673.82... PLUS SHIPPING!!!
 
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