Looking for an adjustable backstay for my Cal 33. Race a few times a year and enjoy a good cruise. Worth the effort for the added performance? Any recommendations, advice?
Adjustable Backstay
- Thread starter william24424
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If you race, an adjustable backstay is a good thing. If you have a split backstay it is easy to rig up an 8:1 system by incorporating 3 wire blocks attached with a triangle plate. Two are used to go around the two parts (port and staboard) of the split in your lower backstay. The other hangs down off the third corner. You then put together a 4:1 purchase with two fiddle blocks (one with a cam cleat and fiddle and the other just a fiddle). Attached to the upper fiddle (without the cleat) is a wire which passes through the third wire block and then leads down to the other side and fastens (dead ends) opposite where the fiddle with the cleat dead ends. This gives you 4:1 x 2 or 8:1. If you use triple blocks (side by side) then you can make it a 12:1 system. If you only have a single backstay, then you can shorten it and put on a mechanical adjuster (very slow), or a hydraulic. one like Sailtec.
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Adjusting the backstay can accomplish a few things depending on the rest of your rig. On my masthead rig, the main effect is altering the tension on the forestay. In high winds, tensioning my backstay can give me about 5 degrees higher pointing.
Adjusting the backstay can accomplish a few things depending on the rest of your rig. On my masthead rig, the main effect is altering the tension on the forestay. In high winds, tensioning my backstay can give me about 5 degrees higher pointing.
Here's some material for you
Garhauer makes a nice unit, in the picture. The sketch is for building your own. The split triangular piece where the backstay comes down and splits into two is a key component. Figure a turnbuckle above that per the sketch. Check the lineup of your tangs at the base. If they're like ours not lined up with the plane of the backstay, put toggles at the base and use big D rings for pins to connect the vang lines to the base at the transom.
Garhauer makes a nice unit, in the picture. The sketch is for building your own. The split triangular piece where the backstay comes down and splits into two is a key component. Figure a turnbuckle above that per the sketch. Check the lineup of your tangs at the base. If they're like ours not lined up with the plane of the backstay, put toggles at the base and use big D rings for pins to connect the vang lines to the base at the transom.
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Definitely a nice upgrade.... you'll use it a lot racing, just casually for daysailing. But I wouldn't own a boat without one.
Here's some various systems to consider. Pick the one that suits your budget or requires the least modification to your existing rigging.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/back.phphttp://mauriprosailing.com/Harken/Harken-Trimming-Systems/Backstay-Adjuster.htm
http://www.riggingonly.com/backstayadj04.htm
http://www.pyacht.com/johnson-backstay-adjusters.htm
http://www.apsltd.com/c-212-backstayadjusters-splithydraulicstandard.aspx
Here's some various systems to consider. Pick the one that suits your budget or requires the least modification to your existing rigging.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/back.phphttp://mauriprosailing.com/Harken/Harken-Trimming-Systems/Backstay-Adjuster.htm
http://www.riggingonly.com/backstayadj04.htm
http://www.pyacht.com/johnson-backstay-adjusters.htm
http://www.apsltd.com/c-212-backstayadjusters-splithydraulicstandard.aspx
An alternative is to apply running backstays .... usually much cheaper than a backstay adjuster. Plus if you do any long distance sailing, runners will prevent/retard 'mast pumping' when the wind/wave conditions are 'boisterous'.
Running backstays, ( or check stays ) that attach at the middle-ish of the mast will help control pumping, but they will not control headstay sag, which is what an adjustable backstay will do.
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