The back stays on my h335 (1989) are bottomed out and I am still a little slack on my rigging. How difficult is it to tension the forstay/furling? This boat has that through deck furling where the top of the drum is flush with the deck.
Adjust roller furling
- Thread starter colin hunter 335
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If your headstay has an adjuster...
it should not be a problem. If not, you would have to remove and dismantle the furler unit and cut the forestay wire to size. Release the backstay prior to measuring and take the opportunity to install and adjuster at this time. Secure the mast before removing forestay. Also try to determine what has happened to take corrective action and prevent recurrence. Is the mast sinking?
it should not be a problem. If not, you would have to remove and dismantle the furler unit and cut the forestay wire to size. Release the backstay prior to measuring and take the opportunity to install and adjuster at this time. Secure the mast before removing forestay. Also try to determine what has happened to take corrective action and prevent recurrence. Is the mast sinking?
Backstay
Hello Colin, If your backstay is fully locked and you have slack on the forestay, you probably have too much rake (angle toward the rear of the boat, not prebend) in your mast. I would suggest you follow the procedure below to reduce forestay length by accessing the turnbuckle and verify if you can rectify this situation. Once the mast is straight, vertical, the prebend should be induced using the cap shroud. I looked in the archives because I had written this procedure some times ago. Please have a look. The numbers correspond to the part numbers on the link below. For reference if you want to look for the Turnbuckle, assuming you have a below deck mounted Hood 810 furler (or similar unit like the 705 ld), here is the way to have access to it. Remember it is easier done with no head sail on the furler. Part number refer to drawing on the related link (previous post). 1.Remove the tack socket Hex screw Part # 3 2.Remove Forward tack socket. Part # 2 Straight pull. 3.While holding the aluminium furler extrusion with one hand, Remove aft tack socket Part # 1. Let the extrusion go slowly. The extrusion will move downward about 6 inches with the tip resting on the turnbuckle. While you are doing so, pull the extrusion back up and check the lower part of the aluminium extrusion to make sure it is in good shape. It is a common occurence on these units that the aluminiun will crack around the holes close to the bottom of the extrusion. 4. Underneat the furler assembly, in the anchor locker, disconect the pin trough the hole in Part # 16 This is usually considered the difficult part in this operation. 5.Attach your jib haylard to the jib D Shakle part # 5 6.Pull Halyard and lift the complete furler assembly to expose the turnbuckle. To reassemble do the reverse procedure, the tricky part will be to put back in place the pin in the lower furler drum. The trick is to make sure the cavity in the centery clamp assembly Part # 18 is located exactly in line with the pin location. Some people told me it took them one hour to put the pin back in place. If everything is line up properly it is a 2 minutes job. Look at this web site for complete description of the parts, parts numbers and line drawing. This complete procedure should not take more than 10 minutes. Sounds complicated but it is easy. Good luck.
Hello Colin, If your backstay is fully locked and you have slack on the forestay, you probably have too much rake (angle toward the rear of the boat, not prebend) in your mast. I would suggest you follow the procedure below to reduce forestay length by accessing the turnbuckle and verify if you can rectify this situation. Once the mast is straight, vertical, the prebend should be induced using the cap shroud. I looked in the archives because I had written this procedure some times ago. Please have a look. The numbers correspond to the part numbers on the link below. For reference if you want to look for the Turnbuckle, assuming you have a below deck mounted Hood 810 furler (or similar unit like the 705 ld), here is the way to have access to it. Remember it is easier done with no head sail on the furler. Part number refer to drawing on the related link (previous post). 1.Remove the tack socket Hex screw Part # 3 2.Remove Forward tack socket. Part # 2 Straight pull. 3.While holding the aluminium furler extrusion with one hand, Remove aft tack socket Part # 1. Let the extrusion go slowly. The extrusion will move downward about 6 inches with the tip resting on the turnbuckle. While you are doing so, pull the extrusion back up and check the lower part of the aluminium extrusion to make sure it is in good shape. It is a common occurence on these units that the aluminiun will crack around the holes close to the bottom of the extrusion. 4. Underneat the furler assembly, in the anchor locker, disconect the pin trough the hole in Part # 16 This is usually considered the difficult part in this operation. 5.Attach your jib haylard to the jib D Shakle part # 5 6.Pull Halyard and lift the complete furler assembly to expose the turnbuckle. To reassemble do the reverse procedure, the tricky part will be to put back in place the pin in the lower furler drum. The trick is to make sure the cavity in the centery clamp assembly Part # 18 is located exactly in line with the pin location. Some people told me it took them one hour to put the pin back in place. If everything is line up properly it is a 2 minutes job. Look at this web site for complete description of the parts, parts numbers and line drawing. This complete procedure should not take more than 10 minutes. Sounds complicated but it is easy. Good luck.
Adjust rake to 12 inches
I am told that the rake on the 33.5 should be 12 inches. This is measured from the mast head with your main halyard to where it crosses your boom. This measurement is taken before putting in any bend in the mast. Once you get 12" of rake, you need about 7 inches of prebend. This measurement is taken at the widest point between the hanging halyard and the mast, usually up between the top and bottom spreaders. It is adjusted by tightening the cap shrouds. The middle and bottom shrouds are adjusted to keep the mast in-line sighting up the track. The 12" rake is adjusted by the length of the fore-stay as stated be Claude. Once set, it shouldn't have to be readjust from year to year. The back-stays are for support of the mast, but because of swept spreaders and the rigging attached to the deck behind the mast, the back-stay won't be real tight.
I am told that the rake on the 33.5 should be 12 inches. This is measured from the mast head with your main halyard to where it crosses your boom. This measurement is taken before putting in any bend in the mast. Once you get 12" of rake, you need about 7 inches of prebend. This measurement is taken at the widest point between the hanging halyard and the mast, usually up between the top and bottom spreaders. It is adjusted by tightening the cap shrouds. The middle and bottom shrouds are adjusted to keep the mast in-line sighting up the track. The 12" rake is adjusted by the length of the fore-stay as stated be Claude. Once set, it shouldn't have to be readjust from year to year. The back-stays are for support of the mast, but because of swept spreaders and the rigging attached to the deck behind the mast, the back-stay won't be real tight.
Ken
A small correction on the mast bend. You said "This measurement is taken at the widest point between the hanging halyard and the mast". The 'hanging' halyard will give you rake, but the halyard needs to be moved to the tack fitting to allow for prebend measurement. To all, Ken is correct about the adjustment of the fore stay for rake. The length of the fore stay is ONLY to adjust rake, NEVER to adjust stay tension.
A small correction on the mast bend. You said "This measurement is taken at the widest point between the hanging halyard and the mast". The 'hanging' halyard will give you rake, but the halyard needs to be moved to the tack fitting to allow for prebend measurement. To all, Ken is correct about the adjustment of the fore stay for rake. The length of the fore stay is ONLY to adjust rake, NEVER to adjust stay tension.
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