I am thinking about adding a wireless security alarm system to my H320. The system is designed for a house application (X-10 unit) and requires AC power to run the central sounding alarm control unit, although the hatch contacts, glass breakage units and motion detectors are all battery operated. I am thinking about adding an uninterruptible power supply to the system so that if the shore power is disconnected the alarm will immediately switch to the UPS. Anyone done then same or have any thoughts regarding this strategy? Another approach could be to install a power inverter just for the central and directly wire to the batteries but I am concerned about the power draw and heat from inverter being constantantly on. Anyone have any experience with small inverters? Kevin
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Jeff M.
Shouldn't need a UPS
Just about every alarm system I've seen actually runs on twelve volts supplied by an internal battery. The residential system you describe (X10) is connected to 120 vac merely to keep the battery charged. You should be able to connect the central unit directly to your house battery and be good to go. If you were to add a blocking diode, you could keep the small internal battery as a stand-by.
Just about every alarm system I've seen actually runs on twelve volts supplied by an internal battery. The residential system you describe (X10) is connected to 120 vac merely to keep the battery charged. You should be able to connect the central unit directly to your house battery and be good to go. If you were to add a blocking diode, you could keep the small internal battery as a stand-by.
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Kevin
I am confused about the battery...
I was told by the X-10 folks that the 9v battery in the central unit was solely to retain the programming memory in the event of power failure but that it would not power the alarm horn. Perhaps they were wrong? Do you have direct experience with the X-10 unit? Thanks for your comments.
I was told by the X-10 folks that the 9v battery in the central unit was solely to retain the programming memory in the event of power failure but that it would not power the alarm horn. Perhaps they were wrong? Do you have direct experience with the X-10 unit? Thanks for your comments.
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Marc Honey
Where?
Kevin, what marina are you in? Friend of mine at Marshall Ford has a 35.5 with pretty elaborate alarm. You might want to talk to him.
Kevin, what marina are you in? Friend of mine at Marshall Ford has a 35.5 with pretty elaborate alarm. You might want to talk to him.
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Bill Sheehy
Just a question
When we got our Passage 42 it had a alarm. I ended up removing it because unless I am standing there no one's going to do anything about the alarm. Ever see anyone run over to check why a car alarm is going off. Most people walk the other way.
When we got our Passage 42 it had a alarm. I ended up removing it because unless I am standing there no one's going to do anything about the alarm. Ever see anyone run over to check why a car alarm is going off. Most people walk the other way.
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mike
be careful with x-10 for security
i own a independent alarm co. x-10 usually uses dip switch or dial settings that may get compromised. you may want to talk to someone in your area to install a wireless alarm system. possibly a ademco lynx or a ge interlogic, these are self contained mother board, keypads and receiver. these will use a ul approved wireless sensor, contacts, glass breaks etc, what i would do next is ad a ademco 7845 cell radio (or uplink) as my communication. this way you should be able to use it at any port as long as you notify the central station of its wearabouts, or just have them notify you instead of the police. i doubt that the big companys (adt, protection one, brinks) will be of any help on a boat install but a local company should be able to help. also look on ebay under ademco, they always have alot of new equipment for sale, caution though programming may be involved. regards, mike
i own a independent alarm co. x-10 usually uses dip switch or dial settings that may get compromised. you may want to talk to someone in your area to install a wireless alarm system. possibly a ademco lynx or a ge interlogic, these are self contained mother board, keypads and receiver. these will use a ul approved wireless sensor, contacts, glass breaks etc, what i would do next is ad a ademco 7845 cell radio (or uplink) as my communication. this way you should be able to use it at any port as long as you notify the central station of its wearabouts, or just have them notify you instead of the police. i doubt that the big companys (adt, protection one, brinks) will be of any help on a boat install but a local company should be able to help. also look on ebay under ademco, they always have alot of new equipment for sale, caution though programming may be involved. regards, mike
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Kevin
Marshall Ford
Marc, we must be neighbors. I am Cabanna and I know the boat you are referring to. He has an excellent system but I would hoping to put something in for less costs. From the feedback I have moved off the X-10 idea and am looking at Marine and Car systems. Kevin
Marc, we must be neighbors. I am Cabanna and I know the boat you are referring to. He has an excellent system but I would hoping to put something in for less costs. From the feedback I have moved off the X-10 idea and am looking at Marine and Car systems. Kevin
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Marc Honey
Kevin
Yes, I own the 28.5 right next to you. Been in the marina 6 years. Glad to see you've checked out David's system. I'll be out of town quite a bit in Nov. but around in Dec. Hope to meet you soon.
Yes, I own the 28.5 right next to you. Been in the marina 6 years. Glad to see you've checked out David's system. I'll be out of town quite a bit in Nov. but around in Dec. Hope to meet you soon.
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Al Nichols
small inverter
I use a small 150 watt inverter. Being a portable device it doesn't lend itself well to a permanent mounting. It shuts itself off when the battery level gets a little low. I use it mostly for the cabins lights. The main reason for using it was to power up a 15 watt florescent bulb. The light output is greater than the 12 VDC cabin light at about the same current draw. It can also power up a laptop computer with power to spare.
I use a small 150 watt inverter. Being a portable device it doesn't lend itself well to a permanent mounting. It shuts itself off when the battery level gets a little low. I use it mostly for the cabins lights. The main reason for using it was to power up a 15 watt florescent bulb. The light output is greater than the 12 VDC cabin light at about the same current draw. It can also power up a laptop computer with power to spare.
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