Adding Solar and a Water Maker to My Hunter 290

Aug 18, 2018
164
Hunter 410 MDR
For going down to the sea of Cortez, I've singlehanded 2 seasons on my H410, you really should get a bigger boat. You need bigger tankage, fuel and water. Have fun finding and lugging fuel or water to your boat in Turtle Bay, its just short of torture. There's no water or anything in Santa Maria either, fyi.
And you will be motoring more than you think, whats your range, how many Jerry cans of fuel along? I had 14, total 120g fuel, enough to motor from Cabo to Ensenda at lower rpm motor sailing.
I wouldnt tax my solar (1000w) with a watermaker either, sun doesnt always shine and if sailing often the panels are angled away from the sun or blockage from the sails. You need all the power you could get to make it through nights.
1 gal an hour watermaker is a joke in my opinion. Water is not advertised as potable in any marina down there either.
I love your h290, but it is simply not an adequate boat for that trip. Down to Ensenada and back maybe, or even all the way down, but doubtful you can make it back. There will be some serious and overwhelming conditions for a boat not designed for it. Cabo Falso and Cedros will chew you up and spit you out.
Just a word of caution so you know what your getting yourself into.
BTW, I use the seapower pro, 110v 2 membranes for 40 GPA, installed myself and its been good to me 4 years running now.
 
Jan 11, 2014
14,114
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
There is so much wrong with your planning it is hard to know where to start. So let's start with batteries.

A group 27 has maybe a 90 ah capacity, of which only half or 45 ah are useable. With 3 batteries you have 135 ah to play with. Lead acid batteries are notoriously inefficient at accepting a charge. If you are lucky it will be 85% efficient, that means in order put back 1 ah it will take about 1.2 ah of charging. Discharging your batteries to 50% will require about 160 ah to bring them back to 100% SOC and it will take about 5-6 hours.

Nigel Calder estimates that a solar panel output will average about 3 times the nominal panel capacity. On a bright sunny day in June, it may be higher, on an overcast day in December it will be much lower. My experience with 2 years of living off solar is consistent with Calder's assertion. The 400 watts you are planning will yield on average 1200 wh (100 ah @12vdc). It will take a day and a half of bright sunny weather with no shading and no other load to bring your batteries back to 100% SOC from 50% SOC.

AGM batteries must be kept at 100% SOC as much as possible to prevent sulfating and an early death. This should happen at least every week or two. If not, the AGMs will be useless in as little as a year. And, the capacity will decline over that time.

The 55a Hitachi will never put out 55a for more than a few minutes and will rapidly decrease its output regardless of battery SOC. If you get 25 a at cruising speed for any length of time consider yourself lucky. Remember, an AGM battery's charge acceptance rate decreases as the SOC increases, and decreases sharply after the battery reaches 80-90% SOC. It will take 5 or more hours at cruising speed with no other loads to recharge the battery at 50% SOC.

Refrigeration, electronics and navigation instruments, lighting, and an autopilot consume a lot of energy. Average daily consumption in the range of 75-100 ah a day without a watermaker would not be out of the ordinary. In other words, what you propose to install is simply inadequate for what you intend to do.
 
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Sep 7, 2026
14
Hunter 290 San Diego
Keep in mind that a stock 55 amp alternator produces only a small fraction of that capacity at slow RPM. More like 10 -12 amps with no engine load. . And reving the engine to produce a faster charge rate is not good for your engine. This becomes a serious flaw in your plan among the others people have mentioned. But it sounds like you have already decided to go forward despite the consensus so good luck!
The alternator would only be the backup to the backup. Solar will carry the bulk of the load and Generator as a backup to that. The Consensus seems to be take the easy route, and where's the fun in that? Also the already built systems are $5200 and require way more power than I'm proposing with my smaller < $2k solution. Really though, it's a solar system with plumbing :p
 
Last edited:
Sep 7, 2026
14
Hunter 290 San Diego
For going down to the sea of Cortez, I've singlehanded 2 seasons on my H410, you really should get a bigger boat. You need bigger tankage, fuel and water. Have fun finding and lugging fuel or water to your boat in Turtle Bay, its just short of torture. There's no water or anything in Santa Maria either, fyi.
And you will be motoring more than you think, whats your range, how many Jerry cans of fuel along? I had 14, total 120g fuel, enough to motor from Cabo to Ensenda at lower rpm motor sailing.
I wouldnt tax my solar (1000w) with a watermaker either, sun doesnt always shine and if sailing often the panels are angled away from the sun or blockage from the sails. You need all the power you could get to make it through nights.
1 gal an hour watermaker is a joke in my opinion. Water is not advertised as potable in any marina down there either.
I love your h290, but it is simply not an adequate boat for that trip. Down to Ensenada and back maybe, or even all the way down, but doubtful you can make it back. There will be some serious and overwhelming conditions for a boat not designed for it. Cabo Falso and Cedros will chew you up and spit you out.
Just a word of caution so you know what your getting yourself into.
BTW, I use the seapower pro, 110v 2 membranes for 40 GPA, installed myself and its been good to me 4 years running now.
Funny, you're the first person who pointed that out, and you are correct. When I first signed up, I was talking to a rigging guy about signing up for the Baja and he said "And they let you?". That was my queue to do a little more research. I've been sailing up and down the coast in So. Cal for awhile, but there are a couple of bits where my little Boat would just have a hard time. The Hunter 290 has a capsize index of 2.2 so if everything was ideal, she'd probably be OK, but that's never the case so....

I am likely going to make a left at Ensenada and post up there for a bit and won't be taking it all the way to Cabo. As you have pointed out that's not the boat for it. We are in the market for a good deal on something a little bigger and something a little lower on the Capsize Screening Formula Hunter 290 is 2.2.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,757
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
What this means in practice
Run the watermaker while the Yanmar is charging — that 18-amp draw disappears into a 55-amp alternator without anyone noticing.
Ouch !

The very first thing you may want to do is invest in a battery monitor and have a first hand look at what a factory installed :
HITACHI ALTERNATOR, LR155-20B, 129772-7720, 12VOLT - 55AMP
will produce. I did and saw a steady state 12A max at a 50% SOC on a 220 Ahr battery bank. You'll need a battery monitor to monitor that 18A load if you ever get it installed.

You're going to need a much larger alt. just for starters. And I presume this is all loaded on the back of a 2GM20F.

I don't think I could have put it better than @dlochner when he
stated :

There is so much wrong with your planning it is hard to know where to start. So
 
Sep 7, 2026
14
Hunter 290 San Diego
There is so much wrong with your planning it is hard to know where to start. So let's start with batteries.

A group 27 has maybe a 90 ah capacity, of which only half or 45 ah are useable. With 3 batteries you have 135 ah to play with. Lead acid batteries are notoriously inefficient at accepting a charge. If you are lucky it will be 85% efficient, that means in order put back 1 ah it will take about 1.2 ah of charging. Discharging your batteries to 50% will require about 160 ah to bring them back to 100% SOC and it will take about 5-6 hours.

Nigel Calder estimates that a solar panel output will average about 3 times the nominal panel capacity. On a bright sunny day in June, it may be higher, on an overcast day in December it will be much lower. My experience with 2 years of living off solar is consistent with Calder's assertion. The 400 watts you are planning will yield on average 1200 wh (100 ah @12vdc). It will take a day and a half of bright sunny weather with no shading and no other load to bring your batteries back to 100% SOC from 50% SOC.

AGM batteries must be kept at 100% SOC as much as possible to prevent sulfating and an early death. This should happen at least every week or two. If not, the AGMs will be useless in as little as a year. And, the capacity will decline over that time.

The 55a Hitachi will never put out 55a for more than a few minutes and will rapidly decrease its output regardless of battery SOC. If you get 25 a at cruising speed for any length of time consider yourself lucky. Remember, an AGM battery's charge acceptance rate decreases as the SOC increases, and decreases sharply after the battery reaches 80-90% SOC. It will take 5 or more hours at cruising speed with no other loads to recharge the battery at 50% SOC.

Refrigeration, electronics and navigation instruments, lighting, and an autopilot consume a lot of energy. Average daily consumption in the range of 75-100 ah a day without a watermaker would not be out of the ordinary. In other words, what you propose to install is simply inadequate for what you intend to do.
Thanks — this is exactly the kind of teardown I was hoping for when I published it, and I've checked your numbers rather than argued with them. They hold up. You're Amazing. If you are ever in the neighborhood, I owe you a cold beverage or two.

Three AGM Group 27s at 90 Ah is 270 nominal, 135 usable at 50% DoD. At 85% charge efficiency that's ~160 Ah to put back. Calder's 3× rule gives 400 W × 3 = 1,200 Wh/day. All correct.

One correction, and it goes against me: 1,200 Wh ÷ 12 V = 100 Ah assumes charging happens at 12 volts. It doesn't — it happens at 13.8 to 14.4. The real delivered figure is closer to 87 Ah/day. Your estimate was generous.

I've also now costed my actual loads instead of hand-waving them. Compressor fridge 40 Ah, Raspberry Pi nav stack 6–12, autopilot 8 underway, LED lighting 8, VHF and instruments 3–4, pump and charging 7. 64 Ah at anchor, 79 underway. So your 75–100 figure was fair, and against 87 Ah of harvest I'm running a ~20 Ah/day surplus at anchor and roughly break-even underway. Refilling 160 Ah from that takes over a week, and the last stretch is the slowest because acceptance is collapsing. Your absorption point is the one that actually matters and I had nothing on the page about it.

Where I'd push back is on scope rather than physics. I'm coastal — weekends and short trips, back on shore power every week or two, where a proper charger takes the bank to 100% and holds it. That's the medicine AGMs need, and in that pattern the array offsets daily draw rather than being the sole charge source. Your critique is correct for the boat you were picturing: anchored out a week or more with the fridge running, there is no path back to 100% and the bank dies young. That's a real boundary on the design and it's now stated on the page rather than left implied.

The honest conclusion your post pushed me to is that the limit isn't the array, it's the chemistry under it. LiFePO4 takes full current to ~95% SOC so there's no tail to lose, it's ~99% efficient instead of 85%, gives 80–100% DoD instead of 50%, and doesn't care about partial state of charge. A single 200 Ah lithium gives more usable capacity than my three AGMs, weighs 150 lb less, and banks every amp-hour the array makes. That's where this goes next.

The alternator point is well taken too — I'd been treating the 55 A Hitachi as a charging strategy rather than a top-up, and 25 A at cruise with a taper is the number I should have been planning around.

Page is updated with the full budget and the absorption section, with credit to this thread. Appreciate you taking the time. Like I said above I owe you a mug of Grog.

I posted the updates to the design at skipperscott.com/solar.html, and I'll post progress at skipperscott.substack.com as I update/build things on our little boat.
 
Sep 7, 2026
14
Hunter 290 San Diego
Ouch !

The very first thing you may want to do is invest in a battery monitor and have a first hand look at what a factory installed :
HITACHI ALTERNATOR, LR155-20B, 129772-7720, 12VOLT - 55AMP
will produce. I did and saw a steady state 12A max at a 50% SOC on a 220 Ahr battery bank. You'll need a battery monitor to monitor that 18A load if you ever get it installed.

You're going to need a much larger alt. just for starters. And I presume this is all loaded on the back of a 2GM20F.

I don't think I could have put it better than @dlochner when he
stated :
hehe, I thanked him for the Tear down, where this is pointing me is to Lithium, at least for now. Or maybe to the hand pump route since it's for emergency situations. The whole reason I'm going down this route is, as a boat owner you know this drill.
Me: I need X done on my boat.
Person near Marina who does X: I can do that in 3 months and I'll need half right now to reserve your spot.

If someone is not booked out for at least a month, they potentially have issues.

Anyway, I really appreciate all the input on my build here. Still putting up the solar 100%. I've got a design for how to hang it off the Arch, I'll be interested to see what everyone thinks about that :) Anyway, thanks for the input as well. I updated the page on the solar design to reflect the reality of the batteries vs. consumption- vs. charging w/ all the other things that will be consuming power.
 
Jan 11, 2014
14,114
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
One correction, and it goes against me: 1,200 Wh ÷ 12 V = 100 Ah assumes charging happens at 12 volts. It doesn't — it happens at 13.8 to 14.4. The real delivered figure is closer to 87 Ah/day. Your estimate was generous.
Do the math and don't engage in hopeful thinking. The amount of power produced is the same. 87 ah at 13.8v is the same amount of power as 100 ah at 12v. Watts equal voltage times amp, you know that. Power is measured in watts and power is what we're talking about, 1200 watts does the same amount of work regardless if it is 100 amps at 12 volt, 10 amps at 120 v, or 1a at 1200 v.

When planning, work with nominal voltages and keep the voltage at the nominal level. You'll just confuse yourself and others by switching back and forth between actual voltage and nominal. We all know that 12 v isn't really 12v and varies between 12.5 v in LA a batteries and 13.4v in LFP batteries. Devices powered at 13.4 v will draw fewer amps than devices powered at 12.5 v, but the watts used will be the same. There's no free lunch. Work only in nominal voltages, life will be simpler.