I have been wanting to as two cleats to the side of the deck of my 240 and wanted advice on how to go about it. They're for a mooring system that needs exact cleat placement. I can reach the back side of the fiberglass behind the head liner.... I was panning on 3/4 marine playwood epoxied to the fibeglass inside then thruogh bolt....or doing the same but with 1/4 aluminum...and comments or ideas welcomed... the morring system I'm using is http://www.slidemoor.com/ it needs free clearance above rub rail for the track and piling.... thusly the stern seat and bow railing get in the way... thanks charles
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All you are really needing is backing plates
for the cleats. You won't need to use epoxy here because you are going to bolt the cleats through the plywood. Any poly sulfide or poly urethane caulk will be adequate. Counter sink the bolt holes on the outside when you attach the cleats. Watch for chafe on the mooring lines and have some spares on hand .
for the cleats. You won't need to use epoxy here because you are going to bolt the cleats through the plywood. Any poly sulfide or poly urethane caulk will be adequate. Counter sink the bolt holes on the outside when you attach the cleats. Watch for chafe on the mooring lines and have some spares on hand .
cored decks
I am not familiar with this model but if it has cored decks you might have a problem. Usually when fastening through a cored deck you should first drill out larger holes, fill with epoxy and then drill out the correct sized hole for the fasteners. This will hopefully prevent seepage into the core. Most boats with cored decks have solid glass areas for fastening hardware.
I am not familiar with this model but if it has cored decks you might have a problem. Usually when fastening through a cored deck you should first drill out larger holes, fill with epoxy and then drill out the correct sized hole for the fasteners. This will hopefully prevent seepage into the core. Most boats with cored decks have solid glass areas for fastening hardware.
slidemoor comment
I took a quick look at the demonstration on the website and the first thing I thought was that this system will put a tremendous amount of strain on the cleat and deck. Normally the elasticity of the nylon dock lines absorbs this strain, but this system takes that element out of the connection. What you end up with is a huge amount of leverage in the form of the piling wagging the boat around by the cleats. Actually, if you look at the picture closely, the connection is made to the genoa track..... I tend to agree with Rick. I'd use the winches with a longer length of nylon line figure eighted around them. Anyway, I'm just not seeing the advantage of this system over fender boards or horizontally strung inflatable fenders.
I took a quick look at the demonstration on the website and the first thing I thought was that this system will put a tremendous amount of strain on the cleat and deck. Normally the elasticity of the nylon dock lines absorbs this strain, but this system takes that element out of the connection. What you end up with is a huge amount of leverage in the form of the piling wagging the boat around by the cleats. Actually, if you look at the picture closely, the connection is made to the genoa track..... I tend to agree with Rick. I'd use the winches with a longer length of nylon line figure eighted around them. Anyway, I'm just not seeing the advantage of this system over fender boards or horizontally strung inflatable fenders.
cored decks
I agree with Rick 1. I disagree with Ross. Seal all deck hardware with epoxy-oversize drill method and rebed with polysulfide or polyurethane. gene
I agree with Rick 1. I disagree with Ross. Seal all deck hardware with epoxy-oversize drill method and rebed with polysulfide or polyurethane. gene
If you have cored decks when you tighten
the fasteners you will probably crush the core. In those cases I use a hole saw on the inside to remove a plug of glass and core and replace it with epoxy putty or I epoxy a locust plug into the hole and glass over that. Even Balsa isn't hard enough to resist crushing from tight fasteners.. Countersinking the hole from the outside will prevent the extrusion of the bedding compound from around the fastener but will instead force it into the countersink and around the fastener.
the fasteners you will probably crush the core. In those cases I use a hole saw on the inside to remove a plug of glass and core and replace it with epoxy putty or I epoxy a locust plug into the hole and glass over that. Even Balsa isn't hard enough to resist crushing from tight fasteners.. Countersinking the hole from the outside will prevent the extrusion of the bedding compound from around the fastener but will instead force it into the countersink and around the fastener.
Joe, I would agree & especially at that price.
I would agree with Joe. This system seems very expensive considering you still have more hardware to purchase. It will be over $500 when you are done. I would have some concern about the holes elongating over time and causing a leak. If you decide to do it, be sure that you do the oversize drill and epoxy method at a minimum. I like the idea of a backing plate too.
I would agree with Joe. This system seems very expensive considering you still have more hardware to purchase. It will be over $500 when you are done. I would have some concern about the holes elongating over time and causing a leak. If you decide to do it, be sure that you do the oversize drill and epoxy method at a minimum. I like the idea of a backing plate too.
The Deck on These is Not Cored.
I think an epoxyed peice of ply with fender washers on the back of the nuts would be fine for a backing plate. use the thickest stuff you can get back there. There was a similar item featured on Ship Shape TV. Tide Slides are what I think they are called. In their demonstration they seemed to work quite well. I was entertaining the idea of getting them untill I looked at the price. The concept I think is sound it is the cost that I balked at.
I think an epoxyed peice of ply with fender washers on the back of the nuts would be fine for a backing plate. use the thickest stuff you can get back there. There was a similar item featured on Ship Shape TV. Tide Slides are what I think they are called. In their demonstration they seemed to work quite well. I was entertaining the idea of getting them untill I looked at the price. The concept I think is sound it is the cost that I balked at.
1985 26ft oday original hatch cover
Always use a s/s fender washer as this will not dig into the wood and creates less stress on the wood backer which should be 3/4 inch at a minumum
Always use a s/s fender washer as this will not dig into the wood and creates less stress on the wood backer which should be 3/4 inch at a minumum
good points all
I appreciate all the points made so far...it is expensive for the slide but at this time i also have no moooring posts of any kind...so in a way this will reduce the number of posts i have to pay to be driven. The going rate on these around here on the ohio river is 450 a pole. I have recently looked into the deck and am postitive it isn't cored but a single layer of fiber...but i will keep the core methods in mind if i am wrong... one other thing the slides allow is a major plus...the ability to adjust to changing water table...with the army corp's whim...the ohio can raise feet without any notice cause of rain up or down stream...and my mooring is fourty minutes away...so the ability to adjust to a rise in water would be fantstic if the other featurs of this system pan out. thank for your advice so far... and as far as price goes this thing total with post cost only two years of slip fees elswhere. gotta keep all the thigs in focus. charles
I appreciate all the points made so far...it is expensive for the slide but at this time i also have no moooring posts of any kind...so in a way this will reduce the number of posts i have to pay to be driven. The going rate on these around here on the ohio river is 450 a pole. I have recently looked into the deck and am postitive it isn't cored but a single layer of fiber...but i will keep the core methods in mind if i am wrong... one other thing the slides allow is a major plus...the ability to adjust to changing water table...with the army corp's whim...the ohio can raise feet without any notice cause of rain up or down stream...and my mooring is fourty minutes away...so the ability to adjust to a rise in water would be fantstic if the other featurs of this system pan out. thank for your advice so far... and as far as price goes this thing total with post cost only two years of slip fees elswhere. gotta keep all the thigs in focus. charles
Install the cleats on the genoa tracks
West Marine, and other stores carry a cleat that goes on the genoa track. YOu can move it back and forth to get a exact location. Plus, no extra holes in the boat.
West Marine, and other stores carry a cleat that goes on the genoa track. YOu can move it back and forth to get a exact location. Plus, no extra holes in the boat.
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