Adding a small LED. Advice needed

[Curt]

I need to add a small light and require some insight, assistance or abuse. All are acceptable as long as I get it done. I am a ME and electrical stuff confuses the hell out of me.

On Chingaletta the electric switch panel is mounted port side, low, as part of the bench seat.

Personally I know where the appropriate switches are but it is always a challenge to have someone else flip them. I would like to install a small, low voltage or LED style light direclty above the switch panel, just enough light to see the lables.

Ideally I would like the light ot come on when the main button is pushed to energize the panel or possibly when the cabin light switch on the panel is turned on.

What style of light would brighten the panel face best?
I would expect a single low current light to fit the bill what, if anything special would be needed to add the feature?
Do I have to reduce current in some way in order to use a small light?

Thanks in advance for the help,
Curt

 

[HERSH]

Wire it the same way the light on the bottom light is wired -"BUT'' ---- Pay attention to the polarity.
My light burnt out on the bottom. Turns out that Radio Shack has a LED assembly that fit in perfectly.

"ME" --- you still had to take Physics 102 ... no ?

Hershey

 

[Richard9547]

Have you seen these LED strips at Walmart (or at auto parts stores?)?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pilot-Automot ... d/23591441

Ghetto lighting, sure, but - they run on 12 volts, no resistors or power supply needed (no VHF radio interference), and are hermetically sealed
They are arranged in sections of three LEDS and can be cut apart with scissors to length (or brightness) desired.

Since you are an ME, I'd assume soldering is not a good recommendation :roll: , so do this:
Clip off the first section or two to fit the space you want to install them. That leaves the
factory wires attached, so no delicate soldering required this time (send the remaining chunk to me?)
But look closely and you will see two little silver dots on each section of 3 LEDs.
The clear cover can be (CAREFULLY!) trimmed back and wires soldered there for the remaining chunks.

Anyone who tries this - add a bit of Shoe Goop over the soldered wires and heat shrink over that.
Makes a nice secure connection and keeps it waterproof.

There is a nice sticky adhesive backing on these. Clean the attach point with 90% alcohol, peel off the backing
and stick them in place. I'd recommend arranging them so they don't shine directly in your eyes. They be bright!

Ok, there are two wires. One to negative, one to positive.
It won't hurt anything if you get them backwards - but the LEDS won't light. That's all.

I use crimp on terminals (with the same Shoe Goop/heat shrink treatment) for the power connections.
Then attach the negative side to "ground" (negative side of battery) and the positive side to whatever
switch you want - and you are done,

I did another trick on Temptress (Capri 26).
I replaced the panel light switch with a lighted switch (and a current limiter resistor to dim it) and attached the
lighted part to the main battery power switch.
When the battery switch is tuned on (honking big rotary battery switch - easy to find by feel) the panel lights
switch lights up. Makes that one easy to find. My panel was back-lit (more LED strips there), so getting the
panel lights on makes it ALL visible.

My last LED trick was indirect cabin lighting using the same LED strips.
I shaped little (sorta) triangular wood blocks that were mounted under the cabin shelves.
(ok, three coats of west resin before painting to match the interior)

A short LED strip is attached to the outboard face so that the lights shine on the hull liner, and
not toward the cabin. Made a fabulous night environment! Light up what you need to see,
but no point lights to completely ruin your night vision.

In the picture, I have the overhead lights on as well in order to take the picture
but you can see the how the lights over the galley and bar work.

For safety, I installed 1 amp mini-blade fuses (from Granger at $1 each!) - one port, one starboard.
IIRC, The LEDS pulled maybe 10 mili-amps per dot, so 20 per side still only consume less than a
half amp total.

 

[Curt]

Wire it the same way the light on the bottom light is wired -"BUT'' ---- Pay attention to the polarity.
My light burnt out on the bottom. Turns out that Radio Shack has a LED assembly that fit in perfectly.

"ME" --- you still had to take Physics 102 ... no ?

Hershey

Hey Hershey,

Physics 102 was a long time ago. Please forgive my ignorance but what is this light on the bottom of which you speak? I never noticed any such thing on my panel and I have had it off a couple of times. Possibly something used prior to 513 being built? Worst part is I can't even go look unitl the spring when the yard opens again.

Cavelamb,

Great idea, never thought of that. I see these on cars and motorcycles on occasion but the thought never crossed my mind. That is why I always pose questions to the various forums I follow. I have saved mucho money by asking questions of the BMW forum regarding my wifes 98 Z3 Roadster and the Drifter forum for my 03 Vulcan Drifter.

I follow basic electric wiring and such so soldering is not an issue. I just want to be sure I am not missing something obvious(to some) or making more work than necessary.

Thanks Guys,
Curt

 

[HERSH]

Below is the panel on my Capri 22 1988 # 297
Where the orange LED now is -- was an orange incandescent light which had burnt out.



As an ME you probably took Physics 202 --- Calculus based

Me -- AAS in Electronic Engineering --- BS in Physics

Hersh

 

[Curt]

Your panel looks nothng like the panel in the 1990 version of my Capri 22. There is a single push button at the top to energize the panel and rocker switches to open or close the various circuits. Chingaletta is race package equipped, maybe it's just a faster panel.

In the spring I will most likely add a LED strip light to the top of the recess where in the panel resides. I think connecting it to the main power switch would work best, that way the panel would be visible whenever it is energized.

I dislike calculus based anything.

Cheers,
Curt

 

[shnool]

regardless. The light for the panel is a much needed uprade! I hated fumbling for that thing!

and I took 201, 202... and have the BSEE... The LEDs with the resistors will make this an easy peasy job for you Curt... take pictures! I second getting the pre made auto ones..

 

[HERSH]

What is it with us technical types - taking interest in sailing?

The "LED" in my panel is an assembly with the resistor built in. But probably not really good for your application. When the indicator light burnt out in my boat I called Catalina -- no luck. Turned out for the better, with the Radio Shack LED.

I actually like the way the newer Capri 22's have the panel up high. Down on the floor just makes the panel susceptible to accidental kicking and hard to see.

Do you have fuses or circuit breakers ?

The place where you keep you boat stored over the winter, does not allow access to it? probably with all the snow you get in Buffalo, you couldn't gt to it anyway

Hershey.

 

[Curt]

I don't know why we do it. Sailing is such a simple undertaking, that is until we tweek and geek and complicate it to no end. An extra .25 knots here or 2 degrees higher to wind there. When my son took an interest I said I could teach him to sail in a day but he would spend the rest of his waterborn time getting good at it. So simple, yet not.

The yard is locked up after the 15 November (owner is a bit of a @$$h@!e) ( actually a complete one) and Chingaletta is well covered with a fitted canvas. We get way less snow than advertised. The lake winds blow to the south of Buffalo but if the news said Colden, NY got dumped on with 10 inches no one would care. The snow belt starts about 10 miles to the south.

Back on topic. The panel on my Capri is low, so low I have to get on my knees to see it at night. Now the embarassing part, not sure about the fuses or breakers. Never went in there looking for them so I truely can't say for sure. I am going with breakers though, at least till spring.

I went net surfing last night and there are plenty of LED options available. Strip lighting of most any color and length you can thnk of as well as small 1 or 2 LED fixtures from the RV world.

I wish spring would get here.

Curt

 

[BillL Capri 22]

In an effort to maintain what little reputation I have as a supplier of alternative solutions...
How about replacing the existing pannel with an "illuminated electrical switch panel marine"...
Might be more wiring but a cleaner installation. Looks like prices are $25 to $100.

Courtesy of Google...

Sea Dog@ Wholesalemarine

West Marine option

SeaSense @ Overton

Blue Sea @ Overton

 

[HERSH]

Here is a Radio Shack LED like I put in my panel ( except it is red)
I believe they have green and white also.

They need a 1/4 inch hole. You could put a few above the panel.

Wire them in parallel.





Roy

 

[jerrymlewis]

That's a nice alternative fuse panel, but I think the main want/need in this string is for some light on the panel faceplate so you can find the switches in the dark.

I am considering adding a couple of those "dashboard" highlight LEDs seen at automotive stores that would tie in the MAIN switch and light up the whole front panel - even with all the other switches off - allowing easy finding the right switch in the dark.