Adding a lifeline gate

[thaeni]

I need to add a stanchion for the gate. My stanchion mounts directly
to the toe rail (see attached) and has a brace with 2 bolts. According
to the factory the brace was mounted with bolts that were tapped into
aluminum plates laminated into the deck. Any ideas on what to use to
secure a new stanchion?
Thanks

 

[Stu Jackson]

thru bolts

 

[Jackdaw]

Remember you can't just any stanchion. You need one with a extra base leg to support the load while the gate is open.

 

[thaeni]

Without tearing out the interior there is no access to thru bolts...

 

[Steve Dion]

IF there is a backing plate, then you can drill and tap. You can contact Garhauer to see if they can make you a proper gate with studs on the tubing so they can be drilled through the toe rail. You have an outboard flange so there should not be much of an issue.

 

[thaeni]

there are no backing plates in the location I need to mount the stanchion. Do you
think a snaptoggle would be strong enough for the stanchion brace?. The stanchion
itself will thru bolt directly to the toe rail.

 

[thinwater]

Remember that the leverage depends on the ratio of stanchion height the width. Perhaps it is about 5:1. The greatest load, assuming it is not open during vigorous sailing, is someone placing about 150% of their weight on the cable, as though they fell. I've done this.

Thus, the load is about 200 x 1.5 x 5 = 1500 pounds pull-out. That's pretty tough for a toggle of any reasonable size. Sealing will also be a problem, so we must assume the toggle will corrode.

However, it is not the new brace that needs this pull-out strength; it is in compression. It is the stanchion base. If the existing stanchion is threaded into good plates and you can just brace the existing stanchion, your plan should work.

Not a simple problem. Try not to fall on the line while the gate is open. This is, by the way, the reason that the rules require that the cable is NOT secured to intermediate stanchions, only well braced ends.

 

[Steve Dion]

No sealant required it is a outboard flange.

 

[thaeni]

No sealant required it is a outboard flange.

I agree..The main attachment point is thru the toe rail. My issue
is how to fasten the 2 brace supports to the deck...

 

[Stu Jackson]

"Member I suggested thru bolts.

Like Jack's picture, many of us have boats that don't have the toe rail feature you do have.

The base of the stanchions in Jack's picture show how most our bases go through the deck, requiring "traditional" methods of locating and subsequent sealing of the base and thru bolts. Butyl is best for that.

Remember you can't just any stanchion. You need one with a extra base leg to support the load while the gate is open.

 

[Steve Dion]

Contact Garhauer Marine. They can work with you on your issue.

http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=56

I do not think you need that brace support. The other leg of the gate will also go thru the toe rail.

 

[Terry Cox]

Add Stanchion

I need to add a stanchion for the gate. My stanchion mounts directly
to the toe rail (see attached) and has a brace with 2 bolts. According
to the factory the brace was mounted with bolts that were tapped into
aluminum plates laminated into the deck. Any ideas on what to use to
secure a new stanchion?
Thanks

As was mentioned in an earlier post, you need to buy a gate stanchion, not like a standard life line one shown in your photo. Our boat has the same style of stanchions as yours but the gate stanchion has the added lateral leg for support. The main post through bolts to the toe rail, which is easy enough to do. I would not through bolt the two small support legs to the deck; too complicated. I would secure them in the same way Hunter did; use a tap to cut threads into the aluminum plate that is laminated into the deck.

Before I did any work, I would call Hunter Marine to verify that an aluminum plate exists where you want to mount the new gate stanchion. If they do not know for sure, a small drill bit test hole will confirm. Either way the test hole will become a small support leg attach point. If there is aluminum there, the bit will bring up shavings.

 

[quadrille38]

I don't know that this fits your need but thought I'd offer it up as something I did to solve my desire to have a boarding gate on my previous boat a Catalina 34.

For years I always desired to have a gate that was located more towards midship. It made no sense to me that the gate was way at the back of the boat near the cockpit when logic would say it should be at the fat part of the boat that is closest to the dock. I looked and looked and contemplated adding a second gate stanchion to make a real boarding gate but could never come up with a reasonable way to do it that would be properly engineered and constructed. So here is what I did.

On the 34 there was the pushpit rail and the next stanchion had the extra support for the gate. The lifelines opened between these two. So as I looked at it I came up with the idea having of new lifelines made and moving the opening section of lifelines forward so that it was right at mid ship between what I will call stanchion 1 and stanchion 2. The pelican hooks were located at the reinforced stanchion 1.

It wasn't a perfect boarding gate solution but it did solve what I was and I think you are looking for.
Got the boarding area to the part of the boat that is closest to the dock
Avoided drilling a bunch of holes in the boat trying to properly support a stanchion
Was a relatively modest cost (in boat unit terms) because it involved only having new lifelines made - and they had reached an age where it seemed prudent to replace them anyway.


I don't have the boat anymore so I can't send you pictures but I hope the description I've given is enough to give you an idea to consider.

 

[John T1594]

Simple gate

I’m with quadrille38 on this one. Keep it simple. Our 2000 H340 came from the factory with a bow pulpit, three stantions fitted with double life-lines and a stern pulpit (pushpit). The factory installed a “gate” (actually just an opening) between the aft most stantion and the stern pulpit with a simple pelican hook arrangement – no extra braces, etc. – to facilitate boarding the boat near the stern from the side and into the cockpit. We keep our boat in a marina – bow in – and have to board near the bow because of our short finger piers. We installed a second “gate” between the first and second stations by simply cutting the lifeline and installing a pelican hook on each life line. We used a set of gate stops to keep the aft portion of the life line in-place while the gate was open. I believe that we only need the strength and protection of the intact lifeline while sailing and that is when the pelican hooks are used to connect the open ends of the lifelines. You can see our open section or “gate” in the picture below (oops!, the lifelines are hanging in the water for this picture). I think our local rigging shop charged us about $100 apiece to cut and install a quality pelican hook in each lifeline. We have been using this arrangement for well over ten years. If you feel compelled, I’m sure you could add a stantion brace before and after your gate.

 

[mark trumpy]

Thaeni, I realize this thread is several years old but, like you, I would like to put in a stanchion gate. I have a 37 Legend with what appears to be the same stanchion/toe rail configuration you have. Were you about to get your gate installed and could you provide details on how you did it.

 

[thaeni]

I ended up using toggle bolts rated for 1000lbs

 

[John Nantz]

Thaeni, I have a 37 Legend with what appears to be the same stanchion/toe rail configuration you have. Were you about to get your gate installed and could you provide details on how you did it.

The Legend series stanchions use a 1/4-inch bolt in the aluminum toe rail and, on mine at least, screws in the spread footing. Don't remember if the screws were machine or "sheet metal/wood" type threads nor if they went into a backing plate or not. Does anyone have an answer to the question if it is a "backing plate or not" part?

As for thru-bolting the spread footing, if where one wants a gate and it can be made over an area where the angled portion of the headliner isn't, or where it is covered, like over the chart table or galley cabinet for example, one could cut an access hole where the hole's sight would be mitigated by cabinetry. To top it off, if a white plastic plug/cap could be found to fill it in then that would be the finishing touch. If not hidden by cabinetry, maybe a convenience light could be installed there (preferably something that looked like it belonged there and matched other lights)?

Did any of the Legends come with a lifeline gate scanchion?

 

[Ken Cross]

I've seen it done like this:
Drill small pilot holes where the fasteners go, but drill all the way through the liner. Now using the holes in the liner for location hole saw (size being controlled by what size plastic plugs you can locate) bigger holes in the liner that will accommodate a socket with a nut and a washer taped to the end of the socket. Once the stanchion is thru bolted, use a plastic plug to fill the hole.

Ken