Add traveler to 22 foot sailboat

[Mich222]

I have a 1987 Oday 222- as shown in the pictures below. The 222s came from the factory without a traveler. In order to rig the mainsheet, a fiddle block is attached to the triangular metal plate in the backstay (figure 14) and connects to a mainsheet block mounted aft on the boom (figure 13).

I would like to add a traveler and have the option of not using that darn triangle metal plate assembly.Others on this site have added travelers, either at the Bridgedeck (added at step from cockpit sole into cabin), or further aft at about the halfway distance across the cockpit seating.

My problem is I don’t want a traveler in the cockpit area or bridgedeck. I like to race, but also like a boat for cocktails and happy hour and don’t want casual boating guests to be forced to navigate a cockpit traveler and have a tripping hazard.
That leaves two positions.
1) I could add a traveler on the transom- and perhaps that is the best option?
2) Is there an option to add a traveler on the cabin top? If so, where would it be positioned?
a. If it were forward of the open hatch, it would be most convenient, however, this position would be very close to the gooseneck – so probably not a worthwhile option.
b. If the traveler was positioned on the cabin-top just forward of the pen boards, it would allow for the longest port- to-starboard track and be nearest to mid-boom sheeting. If this location were chosen I would mount the traveler on a bridge to allow access to the cabin.
If go with option 2b), Would it also be an option to mount the traveler bridge, so that one could remove the attachment to the cabin-top on one of the sides and then pivot traveler out of the way of the access to the cabin. For example, remove the starboard bridge-to-cabin-top mounting, and pivot the traveler out of the opening of the sliding hatch toward port side , so have clear access to the cabin? If I were to use this option, I would revert to the original setup (would use the original triangle/backstay sheeting in times of recreational sailing with landlubbers).

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Mich222

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I suggest that you mount a traveler on the transom. Your boom sheeting is already at the aft end of the boom so moving it to mid-boom sheeting is an added complication and maybe not advisable due to changing the location of the load.

Putting a traveler anywhere in the cockpit or over the hatch can make moving around on-board extremely inconvenient on a small boat. Our traveler is mounted to the bridge deck just aft of the passageway and it can be a nuisance. I wouldn't want it on the coach roof of our boat either ... it would complicate all of the systems and trying to rig a method that can be removed sounds like a system begging for failure.

BTW, that arrangement on the back stay looks pretty odd to me. I would be dissatisfied with the way it looks like an eccentric load and who wants that load impacting the backstay anyway? I would go for a permanent solution at the transom. With a small boat on a lake with smaller waves, I don't see the need for a long track anyway. A shorter track at the transom would work perfectly well, far better than your current set-up. With a boom vang, you are able to accomodate the same desire to manage twist anyway, so if you don't have a vang, add a vang and use a traveler on a short track on the transom, and you will be fine. Be sure to use backing plates at the attachment points.

 

[Joe]

You boat is very similar to the Capri 22.... I'd rig it like they do... with the traveller on a cross bar in front of the tiller. If you're going to race, you need it located where you can use it while steering... not on the cabin top. You can always make the track removable ... like you suggested with the cabin top version... but quite frankly... you'll get used to it where it is..

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Looking at Joe's diagram, I am reminded that you would have to consider the position of the tiller if you go for an aft-mounted traveler. From you picture, I can't tell where the tiller is mounted.

 

[Mike Turner]

We've been looking at changing out the traveler on our 32' schooner so I've done a small amount of Internet research on this. I'd probably second those here who suggest you look at options for the aft end of your cockpit, since you're already set up for end-boom sheeting and the loads would be different if you shifted to a mid-boom arrangement.

Regardless of what option you go with, also consider the size of the traveler track and car you'll need. Using Harken as an example (no connection with them, I've just spent some time at their web site), travelers come in several different sizes, from a very small set up used for catamarans like the Hobies (too small for your use I expect), and on up. The Harken site has some good resources to help guide you on sizing based on your sail area, end- vs. mid-boom sheeting, etc.

The chandlery here sells some traveler gear from Harken, Schaefer and Lewmar. Gaurhaur also sells some stuff.

Be aware that each of the major manufacturers use somewhat proprietary track and car designs, so one won't work on another. And, the newer captive-ball-bearing cars, have to run on a newer style track; they won't run on older style track.

You may have some luck finding a used system that you can adapt to your boat, if you're lucky enough to have any used-parts chandleries around you (ours closed last year).

Looking at your pulpit, I'd suggest that you skip buying any of the track-end fittings with blocks and cleats to control the car, they're pretty expensive and you can probably rig up something with some blocks and cleats attached to your stainless steel tubing that will work just fine and cost a lot less.

Mike Turner
Lazyjack 32 schooner "Mary'Lis"
Mobile Bay, Alabama

 

[Mich222]

All:
Thanks for the comments- You are giving me something other than snow to think about today.

Scott T-Bird. It isn't my 222 and the rear rail is different in the attached photograph, BUT the transom / tiller and mainsheet set up in the picture is the same setup as as mine.

After reading all the comments and considerations, I am thinking a small transom-mounted traveler would work well for my needs.

Does it look like I could mount a traveler on the transom?

I found the attached traveler drawing/ diagram on the Catalina website, but think it would work on my ODay 222. Would are your thoughts? Mike- were you thinking of something like this - and then attaching blocks to the stern rail? Mich222
Mich 222

 

[tkaser3210]

I have sailed a 222 for 4 years now, and have always been kind of uncomfortable with the backstay attachment for the main sheet - I have thought about having a short (36") SS arch fabricated and attached to the transom to mount a traveler.

Any thoughts?

 

[shawnee_sailor]

I've got the exact same original rigging setup on my (new to me) 1986 Starwind 19. I'm also thinking of installing a traveler. The problem is that the traveler track has to go over the tiller. I'm thinking of risers myself. My real problem is where to mount the risers. The top edge of my transom is fairly narrow (approx 2.5in). The backing plate for these risers is the issue due to little to no room on the underside of the transom top. My latest theory is to use stainless L brackets mounted to the front of the transom with backing plates behind that. I think there's room to squeeze the backing plates in there...

 

[Mich222]

My boat is in storage now so can't measure- BUT I think it would be easier to access the aft corners in terms of securing a traveler with nuts and backing plates from below- so may need something longer than 36"-whetever the transom width? The port lazarette already has access. For the starboard side- not sure if it is safe to put a deckplate inside the fuel locker- but that would allow access to the port aft corner. Of course- you could also place a deckplate (maybe you would need two) on the cockpit transom to accommodate a 36" traveler installation if you are set on that length.

Another Option- My stern rail wraps the aft corners- so I may be able to fashion a traveler bar between the stern rails? I'd position it high enough so could install/ take of off the rudder/tiller.

TKASER3210- Even if you have the eyebrow stern rails, perhaps you could fashion a traveler between the rails? What model year is your 222?

Regarding tiller- I am thinking of placing a hinge in the tiller just forward of where the traveler will be located. This would take the place of the existing pivot point at the rudder head.

What do you think of these ideas?

 

[RichH]

Joe's midship mounted pic represents the 'best' arrangement - allows fast traveller adjustment with the minimum amount of arm strength. Will be in the way when 'entertaining'. - all depends on how close to the end of boom vs. mechanical advantage
Also allows the helmsman (with TILLER) to sit UNDER the dodger and still steer, etc. when in rain, etc.

Next best is traveller near or on the stern ... but then you have to 'reach back' to adjust.
OK if the helmsman can 'conveniently' and quickly reach it. Minimal strength to adjust traveller AND mainsheet. Does keep the 'cockpit clutter' aft of the crew/helmsman

Worst is relocating to mid-boom - increases the force required to adjust, (is the coach roof strong enough?) and requires a LOT of 'rope' for the mainsheet - cockpit clutter.

 

[tkaser3210]

I said 36" arch, but I meant 36" high, pretty much full stern width. I would remove the stern pulpits and incorporate new ones into the arch.

My O'day is 1984 great trailer-sailer! Did the North Channel in mid September 4 years ago, before I knew you don't do the North Channel in mid Sept !

 

[Mike Turner]

Your drawing shows the old style Catalina 22/25 traveler set-up. The traveler was a piece of stainless tube/rod, shaped as shown in the drawing - I think it's 5/8" in diameter, and it's through-bolted down into the transom with 1/2" bolts. The car rode on this tube/rod on rollers. Newer C22/25s have gone to a track/car set-up.

The difference between the old C22 set-up and the O'day 222 is the "cut out" in the C22 transom, below the traveler, to accomodate the tiller. The C22 traveler bar stands 3" above the top edge of the transom (not counting the cut-out below it). So you'd have to make sure that you could mount the C22 traveler so that it would be high enough to clear your tiller, perhaps on some wood block risers with longer bolts to through-bolt below the transom.

The C22 traveler doesn't allow for a whole lot of windward/leeward adjustment, it's only about a foot or so across. So it would probably be a compromise - it would perhaps be an improvement over your current set-up, but won't give you a lot of adjustment off the centerline. A plus is that the traveler tube/bar and car are pretty cheap, you could get them for around $100 new.

An alternative might be to buy the car, and a length of 5/8" stainless steel tube that would span the width of your transom. Mount the tube on wood block risers to clear your tiller, through-bolt through the transom, and you'd have something similar to the C22 set up but with a greater range of adjustment.

Since you don't have a stern pulpit, whichever system you wind up using, I'd use an eye strap/cheek block and cam cleat set-up similar to what's shown in the C22 drawing, much cheaper than buying the track-end block/tackle fittings.

Re: a hinge for the tiller, I don't think a regular hinge would take the side loads. I've seen a diagram somewhere of more of a "c" channel type fitting that you could fabricate - cut the tiller at the appropriate place where you want it to hinge, cut an appropriate size of aluminum c-channel for the tiller to fit in, through bolt the c-channel through both the cut ends of the tiller, and voilla - a little more robust hinge that will take the side-to-side loads.

The chandlery here doesn't seem to carry the C22 traveler parts - you can get them at Catalina Direct.

Also, for those talking above about having traveler track on risers, from what I've seen, not all track can span an open area without being supported from below. Most track is bolted on 4" centers. So if you went this route, you'd want to make sure you were buying track that can span between the risers on it's own without any support. There is track that does this, you just want to make sure you get the correct track for your application.

Mike Turner
Lazyjack 32 schooner "Mary'Lis"
Mobile Bay, Alabama

 

[dscribner]

I'm new and my traveler is short, set on the cockpit floor just ahead of the companionway. Very ineffective . . . I think. But, riddle me this. The traveler is used to allow the mainsheet to pull down on the boom rather than at an angle, correct? This keeps the boom from skying and changing the shape of the sail , thereby spilling wind and de-powering it? Isn't that the job of the boom vang too? Could the same control and sail trim be achieved by adding a vang from the base of the mast to the mid of the boom? And is not the exact same control, similar?

 

[jbrosecity]

Personally I would stay FAR away from a transom mounted traveler. I had one on my new Catalina 22 MkII and sailed it ONCE and that was enough. The mainsheet caught me on the side of the head and my wife in the chest a couple times and that was enough. Even if you can learn to avoid being decapitated by this absurd arrangement, you cannot lift the tiller when you tack or gybe to change sides... which means you have to slide out and around the end of the tiller to do so and this makes about 75% of the cockpit unusable for guests.

No, once was enough for me. I removed the traveler from the transom rail, cut the rail to allow the tiller to be lifted, and remounted the traveler across the utterly useless little 'step' in front of the companionway. While this does not provide as much travel as a bench mounted design, it provides 50% more travel than the transom mount of the same width because of simple geometry, and at the same time it allowed me to use all the same hardware, pretty much, and avoided a bench top mount which would be harder to step over and at the same time would have necessitated redesign of the cockpit cushions. I have never regretted this conversion and have had a lot of compliments on it... it looks totally OEM and works very well. You can see documentation here:

http://www.TheAnneMarie.com/traveler.html

Note that the photos show the cam cleat in the original low position. I need to get updated photos with the added turnbuckle which worked well to raise it to a more appropriate height.

As mentioned on the page, I also have an O'Day 23 which has a bench mounted traveler mounted just behind the entry way to the cabin. This permits further travel, but as explained, would have had several drawbacks on the Catalina, so the little step mount was the perfect compromise for the Catalina 22.

Of course on a larger boat, I would ONLY use a cabin mount arrangement over the forward part of the companionway, but for a smaller boat I think it is impractical and of course the hardware can get VERY expensive.

 

[Merlin Clark]

Mich,
I'd like to toss this into the pot for consideration and feed back from the other sailors in the discussion.
My first sailboat was an Ensenada 20, a very basc beginner boat. That boat had an mainsheet arrangement that worked off of stand up blocks on either corner of the transome and a fiddle block on the boom. The drawback with it was that it didn't allow sheeting higher than the rail and at that point the main was tight.
I've been thinking that a good way to improve on that design would be to have seperate controls with a stand up single block with becket and cam cleat at each corner of the transome and 2 single fixed (non rotating) blocks on a bail on the boom. It would be a single line system with the line running from the becket up through the block on the bail and back through the (same side) transome stand up block and secured by the cam cleat. The same line would run through the cam cleat, stand up block, etc on the other side with the slack being between the stand up blocks. Once the boom was sheeted in with the lee side control, the windward side control could be used to sheet the boom higher to windward.
Anyway, I think this would offer good, inexpensive and simple control with the hiccup being the windward side control lines being draped across the cockpit when on a broad reach or run.
I made a couple rudimentary drawings of this but can't paste them here so if you want them drop me an e-mail.
merlinuxoatyahoo.com (replace "at" with @)
Good sailing all, Merlin.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I'm new and my traveler is short, set on the cockpit floor just ahead of the companionway. Very ineffective . . . I think. But, riddle me this. The traveler is used to allow the mainsheet to pull down on the boom rather than at an angle, correct? This keeps the boom from skying and changing the shape of the sail , thereby spilling wind and de-powering it? Isn't that the job of the boom vang too? Could the same control and sail trim be achieved by adding a vang from the base of the mast to the mid of the boom? And is not the exact same control, similar?

The vang is to allow hoizontal control of the boom and setting sail shape and the mainsheet allows side to side control of the boom in relation to the hull.
Merlin

 

[Merlin Clark]

Mich,
I'd like to toss this into the pot for consideration and feed back from the other sailors in the discussion.
My first sailboat was an Ensenada 20, a very basc beginner boat. That boat had an mainsheet arrangement that worked off of stand up blocks on either corner of the transome and a fiddle block on the boom. The drawback with it was that it didn't allow sheeting higher than the rail and at that point the main was tight.
I've been thinking that a good way to improve on that design would be to have seperate controls with a stand up single block with becket and cam cleat at each corner of the transome and 2 single fixed (non rotating) blocks on a bail on the boom. It would be a single line system with the line running from the becket up through the block on the bail and back through the (same side) transome stand up block and secured by the cam cleat. The same line would run through the cam cleat, stand up block, etc on the other side with the slack being between the stand up blocks. Once the boom was sheeted in with the lee side control, the windward side control could be used to sheet the boom higher to windward.
Anyway, I think this would offer good, inexpensive and simple control with the hiccup being the windward side control lines being draped across the cockpit when on a broad reach or run.
I made a couple rudimentary drawings of this but can't paste them here so if you want them drop me an e-mail.
merlinuxoatyahoo.com (replace "at" with @)
Good sailing all, Merlin.

===========

Just saw the options for uploading photos. I'm an old dog but catch on eventually.
Ensenada mainsheet arrangement is the first pic and my "improved" version is the second.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I may have been misleading in saying the vang controls horizontal movement, it controls up and down movement and the mainsheet controls side to side.

 

[Cayennita]

Merlinuxo has the general idea. I raced aboard a friend's Bristol 28 that had two main sheets. One at either side if the cockpit. This set up gave the main infinitesimal adjustments. Double end the mainsheet or separate them. Your call. On your size boat it would be out of the way and if you want, you can add a turning block and cleat forward for some oe else to do the trimming. I would go for double main sheets.

 

[dscribner]

The vang is to allow hoizontal control of the boom and setting sail shape and the mainsheet allows side to side control of the boom in relation to the hull.
Merlin

Yes, simply put that's true. But without a vang or traveller you can't control sail shape very easily on anything but a close haul. While running or reaching without a traveller the mainsheet is an at such an angle, it is only preventing the boom from swinging out past the rail rather than keeping it more or less parallel with the deck, thereby putting too much twist in the sail, opening the roach and spilling the wind. The boom will sky up and in with every gust. The traveller allows the mainsheet to pull more vertically over a longer stroke and minimizes this action. But . . . a vang keeps the boom parallel to the deck so if you have one installed, how necessary is a traveller?