I have an 01 420 that I would like to rig to fly a crusing spinnaker or drifter. In either case, I would need to install padeyes for the turning blocks aft of the cockpit. There are small platforms just for this purpose located directly above the master stateroom side windows and accessible through a removable panel in the liner in that area. The guy who works on my boat said he is going to have to install additional fiberglass for the backing plate needed for the padeyes and this will be a difficult job. It looks to me that all we would need to do is drill a couple of holes and put a nut on the bolt. Has anyone retrofitted these padeyes? If so, did you put backing plates, additional fiberglass, or just a nut on the padeye bolt? thanks, Guy
Add spinnaker blocks to 420
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spinnaker blocks
Guy Best thing to do is check with the manufacture, it is possible the manufacture incorporated additional backing plate material into the deck pad,if not it would be wise to install a suitable backing plate under the deck so you dont pull the block out. Frank
Guy Best thing to do is check with the manufacture, it is possible the manufacture incorporated additional backing plate material into the deck pad,if not it would be wise to install a suitable backing plate under the deck so you dont pull the block out. Frank
Alternative idea
1. Simply attach a stainless steel U-bolt to an outside post of each sternrail, then attach snatch blocks. 2. Check out this proven spin bowsprit, 2 pages...
1. Simply attach a stainless steel U-bolt to an outside post of each sternrail, then attach snatch blocks. 2. Check out this proven spin bowsprit, 2 pages...
I have done this
Guy, I have an '01 410 which might be very similar to your 420. First place to look for a snap shackle attachment point in on your arch. Our boat has a U-bolt welded close to the arch attachment point for this specific purpose. Lacking that, there are two dedicated locations along the upper cockpit sitting area. They are molded into the gel coat non-slip surface. They do not have backing plates. Go to WM and buy the largest padeyes they have and get ready to shell out the bucks. They cost somewhere around $40 each. I had padeyes installed there and it was necessary to crawl inside the lazerettes to reach the underside where the bolts come through. This is why I had someone else do it because there is no way I could have fit into the lazerettes. Use 5/16" stainless bolts with a large washer and two locking nuts. Don't forget to spread sealant on the underside of the padeye and on the threads of the screw during the process. Ours work well for jacklines as well as spinnaker snapshackles. One thing I found, though, is that the spinnaker sheets can rub against the lifelines causing them to chafe. The best place to fix the fairlead then is on the arch. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Guy, I have an '01 410 which might be very similar to your 420. First place to look for a snap shackle attachment point in on your arch. Our boat has a U-bolt welded close to the arch attachment point for this specific purpose. Lacking that, there are two dedicated locations along the upper cockpit sitting area. They are molded into the gel coat non-slip surface. They do not have backing plates. Go to WM and buy the largest padeyes they have and get ready to shell out the bucks. They cost somewhere around $40 each. I had padeyes installed there and it was necessary to crawl inside the lazerettes to reach the underside where the bolts come through. This is why I had someone else do it because there is no way I could have fit into the lazerettes. Use 5/16" stainless bolts with a large washer and two locking nuts. Don't forget to spread sealant on the underside of the padeye and on the threads of the screw during the process. Ours work well for jacklines as well as spinnaker snapshackles. One thing I found, though, is that the spinnaker sheets can rub against the lifelines causing them to chafe. The best place to fix the fairlead then is on the arch. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Guy,
I, too, have a 2001 420. I ordered the boat w/ the spinnaker package, so it was delivered w/ the padeyes on the platforms that you speak of. I have not looked under the master state room removable panals to ck on backing. However, backing for all other deck hardware ( ie, cleats, anchor windless, etc)is build into the fiberglass under that piece of deck hardware. I strongly suspect that the spinnaker padeye platforms are constructed similarly. In any case, IMHO, you don't need addition fiberglass work; just install appropriatly sized "U" bolts w/ metal backing plates on the platforms and they will work fine.
I, too, have a 2001 420. I ordered the boat w/ the spinnaker package, so it was delivered w/ the padeyes on the platforms that you speak of. I have not looked under the master state room removable panals to ck on backing. However, backing for all other deck hardware ( ie, cleats, anchor windless, etc)is build into the fiberglass under that piece of deck hardware. I strongly suspect that the spinnaker padeye platforms are constructed similarly. In any case, IMHO, you don't need addition fiberglass work; just install appropriatly sized "U" bolts w/ metal backing plates on the platforms and they will work fine.
Installed Spin Turning Blocks on 450
I fly a cruising chute on my 450. I attach snapshackles to padeyes that were mounted to the same platforms you refer to. Hunter backed these mounting platforms with steel plates fiberglassed into the structure. I have flown my chute in winds up to 25mph (not recommended as it resulted in round-ups and brief, but severe flogging and resulting heavy loads on blocks) and have had no problems with the padeyes or the fiperglass and gellcoat surrounding them. There is not even the slightest hint of stress cracks. If you want to be doubly sure check with Hunter, but the loads on the 420 should be less than those on the 450 and I would guess that the glass/backing plate arrangement is identical so you should be able to avoid the glasswork. Good Luck! Jim
I fly a cruising chute on my 450. I attach snapshackles to padeyes that were mounted to the same platforms you refer to. Hunter backed these mounting platforms with steel plates fiberglassed into the structure. I have flown my chute in winds up to 25mph (not recommended as it resulted in round-ups and brief, but severe flogging and resulting heavy loads on blocks) and have had no problems with the padeyes or the fiperglass and gellcoat surrounding them. There is not even the slightest hint of stress cracks. If you want to be doubly sure check with Hunter, but the loads on the 420 should be less than those on the 450 and I would guess that the glass/backing plate arrangement is identical so you should be able to avoid the glasswork. Good Luck! Jim
Hunter molds in
aluminum backing plate material into the decking layup. When drilling through the fiberglass you will encounter the aluminum shavings as you drill. This will allow you to tap threads into the holes from on deck with no need to access from below.
aluminum backing plate material into the decking layup. When drilling through the fiberglass you will encounter the aluminum shavings as you drill. This will allow you to tap threads into the holes from on deck with no need to access from below.
Tapping the plates
How do you "tap the plates"? If I have to ask should I consider NOT trying it? Markdb
How do you "tap the plates"? If I have to ask should I consider NOT trying it? Markdb
Markdb
If you have never done a tap or dye job, I would suggest you practise on a piece of scrap first. It's very easy to do but that's me saying it because I've done it so many times. I'm quite sure you can get some help learning how to on line or at your local HD.
If you have never done a tap or dye job, I would suggest you practise on a piece of scrap first. It's very easy to do but that's me saying it because I've done it so many times. I'm quite sure you can get some help learning how to on line or at your local HD.
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