Access to the prop shaft packing gland is an exercise in desparation! Its almost impossible to get to. I have heard of folks cutting up part of the sink cabinet to make way to get to it. Is this really necessary? The wrench I bought is awkward and leverage is even tougher. Whats the procedure on the C30 (88 model), besides movng the ladder getting on your knees, twisting like a pretzel in and around that #@$%& lower frame work on the cabinet and skinning your knuckles to get no-where!! There has to be a better way or am I am going about it incorrectly? HELP! Bob Georgia
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Packing Gland
If you are referring to the shaft packing gland to keep the water out of the boat, it is located under the ladder. Removing the panel under the ladder should give you plenty of access to the packing gland. I would highly recommend you get a set of proper wrenches for the gland. You typically need two different sizes. www.mcmastercarr.com has an excellent wrench. It is called a 30 degree Angle Thin-Head Short-Handle Wrench, #5414A33 is a 1 3/4" for example. These wrenches fit well and have a 7 5/8" handle making them ideal for tight quarters. Forget those adjustable wrenches that everyone sells, they don't work. The gland should be adjusted for 1 drip per second when the shaft is spinning. NO NOT loosen the nut with the shaft in motion, adjust and then test. If you have to replace the packing it is best done out of the water. If you do it in the water the shaft has to be wraped in tape to minimize water intrusion while you change the packing rings.
If you are referring to the shaft packing gland to keep the water out of the boat, it is located under the ladder. Removing the panel under the ladder should give you plenty of access to the packing gland. I would highly recommend you get a set of proper wrenches for the gland. You typically need two different sizes. www.mcmastercarr.com has an excellent wrench. It is called a 30 degree Angle Thin-Head Short-Handle Wrench, #5414A33 is a 1 3/4" for example. These wrenches fit well and have a 7 5/8" handle making them ideal for tight quarters. Forget those adjustable wrenches that everyone sells, they don't work. The gland should be adjusted for 1 drip per second when the shaft is spinning. NO NOT loosen the nut with the shaft in motion, adjust and then test. If you have to replace the packing it is best done out of the water. If you do it in the water the shaft has to be wraped in tape to minimize water intrusion while you change the packing rings.
it's easy
I was traveling a lot last year so I had the yard do it, it cost $75. He did it in the water and he was done in a half hour. Mine is a '82 C-30 and the packing gland is under the bilge board at the bottom of the steps. You will also need a pick to get all of the old packing material out. Should be easier if you have your fanny pointed at the stove and put something under your knees.
I was traveling a lot last year so I had the yard do it, it cost $75. He did it in the water and he was done in a half hour. Mine is a '82 C-30 and the packing gland is under the bilge board at the bottom of the steps. You will also need a pick to get all of the old packing material out. Should be easier if you have your fanny pointed at the stove and put something under your knees.
The gland is directly under the galley cabinet
My packing glad (1988 model) is located almost directly under the rear engine acces door in the galley. Access to it via a good grip device is blocked by the fiberglass floor that braces the cabinet in the galley. I have easy access to the rubber clamped sleeve for the shaft thru hull, but in front of that is the brass gland nuts that are a bear to grasp. I have heard of folks literally removing that portion of the fiberglass floor to get to it successfully. Bob
My packing glad (1988 model) is located almost directly under the rear engine acces door in the galley. Access to it via a good grip device is blocked by the fiberglass floor that braces the cabinet in the galley. I have easy access to the rubber clamped sleeve for the shaft thru hull, but in front of that is the brass gland nuts that are a bear to grasp. I have heard of folks literally removing that portion of the fiberglass floor to get to it successfully. Bob
packing gland
I have a 1988 C30 and I have a thin 1/8" wrench that fits between the FG floor and the packing nut I use a small pipe wrench to grab the packing nut and use the wrench handels in a squezeing motion to get them loose the brass nuts and large thread and come loose easey. John
I have a 1988 C30 and I have a thin 1/8" wrench that fits between the FG floor and the packing nut I use a small pipe wrench to grab the packing nut and use the wrench handels in a squezeing motion to get them loose the brass nuts and large thread and come loose easey. John
packing gland relatively easy
Bob, I also have a 1988 Catalina 30. I just remove the stairs, remove the engine access-door (via its hinge screws), then lift out the teak & Holly bilge board at the base of the stairs. Then, place an adjustable packing-gland wrench on the packing-gland housing through the hole where the bildge board was and hold it still, then reach inside the engine compartment, through the removed door hole, with water pump pliers to place them on the packing-gland locking nut inside the engine compartment, and then move the water-pump pliers to loosen the locking nut while holding the packing-gland wrench still (so as to not spin or strain the hose). Once loose, the lock nut should spin by hand. Be sure to not strain or twist the hose. BTW, Packing gland material is 3/16, shaft is 1", requires 3 wraps of packing. Wrap material around three times, cut at angles and set cuts at 3, 6, 9 o'clock. by the way, I might have the position of the wrenches backwards -- tired -- so not sure of which is aft, the locking nut or the packing gland housing...
Bob, I also have a 1988 Catalina 30. I just remove the stairs, remove the engine access-door (via its hinge screws), then lift out the teak & Holly bilge board at the base of the stairs. Then, place an adjustable packing-gland wrench on the packing-gland housing through the hole where the bildge board was and hold it still, then reach inside the engine compartment, through the removed door hole, with water pump pliers to place them on the packing-gland locking nut inside the engine compartment, and then move the water-pump pliers to loosen the locking nut while holding the packing-gland wrench still (so as to not spin or strain the hose). Once loose, the lock nut should spin by hand. Be sure to not strain or twist the hose. BTW, Packing gland material is 3/16, shaft is 1", requires 3 wraps of packing. Wrap material around three times, cut at angles and set cuts at 3, 6, 9 o'clock. by the way, I might have the position of the wrenches backwards -- tired -- so not sure of which is aft, the locking nut or the packing gland housing...
Thanks Bill
Appreciate it Bill.... Did you change it out when the boat was in the water? Thats the next big question, to repack while afloat or not....Any suggestions? Bob
Appreciate it Bill.... Did you change it out when the boat was in the water? Thats the next big question, to repack while afloat or not....Any suggestions? Bob
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