Access to starboard side of engine

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Scott F. Murphy

Scott F. Murphy

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Jul 10, 2005
21
Cherubini 33_77-83 New Orleans, LA
On my '79 Cherubini 33', I have to lay down in the head and reach through a 4" port to get to my dip stick or the motor mount bolts. Maybe it's somthing I will eventually get used to. But I'm thinking of putting a larger hatch in the wall of the head for easier access to the starboard side of the engine. Has anyone else made this sort of alteration? I have not been able to find anything about this problem in the Hunter website archive. Scott
 
Paul F

Paul F

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Jun 3, 2004
827
Hunter 1980 - 33 Bradenton
Changed in 1980

My '80 33 has what you are talking about, a pull out hatch about two feet high and a foot and a half accross. It has a little cabinet door latch on the bottom to keep it in. If you would like a picture I could get one for you, however, all it is, is a cut out to the engine. Also makes working on the water pump much easier.
 
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Mark Mowery

Engine access

As Paul states in an earlier reply, I also used a saber saw to make an opening about 16" square in the bulkhead, and this served me well for many years. However, I recently recovered the walls in the head, and as part of the "remodeling" I bought a 10" round access hatch from West Marine for about $50. With some strategic placement, it's big enough to access the engine compartment to check/change oil and operate the fuel pump manually. Could be another option to consider.
 
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Okiman

Engine Access

I have the same set up as Paul. You can actually cut the access panel as large as you want within the dimensions of the head wall. I trimmed my panel with 1/2" stips of teak (varnished) and it looks good and blends in with the rest of the head. Having full access to the impeller, water pump, dip stick, fuel filter, and motor mounts is a plus. You can also get to the transmission shifter and if necessary the throttle linkage connecter as well. Don't forget to replace your zincs!!
 
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Neil

Engine Access

I started out with terrible access to my 89 Legend 35's engine. Some time with a sabre saw and two new access hatches appeared that soon fixed that problem. My only other thought is that teak stained oak is much easier solution for trimming a new hatch that looking for real teak... unless you are a real perfectionist. Neil
 
Scott F. Murphy

Scott F. Murphy

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Jul 10, 2005
21
Cherubini 33_77-83 New Orleans, LA
Thanks!

Good to know I'm not alone!:D I always question my sanity when cutting any fiberglass from a boat.
 
S

Sam Lust

Not glass

Scott; you won't be cutting through fiberglass. The panel is 1/2" plywood covered with the ever so lovely vinyl wall covering. I've seen the vinyl on an Irwin of the same era and the vinyl is just as tasteful. Seems an opening there became standard on the later 33's. (I wonder what Hunter was thinking when they provided no access to the maintenance items of the engine? Maybe about saving $3.50 by leaving it out?) Just cover the engine to keep debris out, mark being sure you don't go into the glass of the engine bed and have some fun! Also you might want to keep an eye on the back side as you cut so you don't go through anything that you might want to use later, like the injection pump. By the way, rounded corners are preferable to square. You should still have no trouble fitting up a frame of the wood of your choice. I prefer teak and lord knows I'm no perfectionist. I might be able to get pictures over the weekend. Watch this space on monday or Tuesday night. The advantage here is that you will now be able to do engine maintenence while seated on the head!
 
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