I want to put an access panel for cleanout in my aluminum diesel fuel tank. can I drill holes and cut the metal with a sabre saw and not blow myself up?
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R
Rip Edmundson
We cut on aluminum fuel tanks with no problems.
For liability purposes, I would not presume to tell you what is okay to do. But I will say what we do: Where I work, we saw and drill aluminum around diesel fuel (actually Jet-A) with no problems. Your biggest worry will be cleanup of the metal chips. We flush the tanks before and after with Mineral Spirits. We use normal safety precautions; gloves, masks, eye shields. We do not deal with gasoline or 100 low-lead aviation fuel - they are too volital.(sp)
For liability purposes, I would not presume to tell you what is okay to do. But I will say what we do: Where I work, we saw and drill aluminum around diesel fuel (actually Jet-A) with no problems. Your biggest worry will be cleanup of the metal chips. We flush the tanks before and after with Mineral Spirits. We use normal safety precautions; gloves, masks, eye shields. We do not deal with gasoline or 100 low-lead aviation fuel - they are too volital.(sp)
S
Sam Lust
Hole in the tank
You didn't say what boat you're dealing with or how good or bad the access is. I cut in an access hole about 7" in diameter into the tank on my Hunter 33. My tank came out fairly easily, with the only cutting being taking about an inch ogff the filler barb, which made no difference at all on mine because it was way longer than it needed to be in the first place. I emptied the tank completely but made no efforts to clean it before cutting. Diesel will burnb but slowly with lots of smoke. To explode it pretty much has to be under compression, which is hard to accomplish outside the confines of a cylender and piston. I started the hole with a "General" hole cutter, which has an adjustable arm with a cutter bit. Very dangerous. Once I got a groove cut in I switched to a jig saw blade which followed the groove and gave me a near perfect round hole. The cover was made of 1/2" clear Lexan with 12 screws and Permatex form a gasket for the seal. After cutting I scoured the inside of the tank with a long arm scrub brush (insert the word "toilet" here) and lots of soap and water to get rid of the shavings andbiological growth which had formed in my tank while sitting for a few years before I bought it. water was removed from the tank with a wet shop vacuum. After being thouroughly rinsed and checked for shavings the tank dried in the full sun for a day before installation. While I was at it I mounted a dip tube fuel pick-up dead center in the tank to reduce the possibility of sucking air when rolling badly while under power. Now with the help of a mirror I can see into the tank, and if I have to I can get into it.
You didn't say what boat you're dealing with or how good or bad the access is. I cut in an access hole about 7" in diameter into the tank on my Hunter 33. My tank came out fairly easily, with the only cutting being taking about an inch ogff the filler barb, which made no difference at all on mine because it was way longer than it needed to be in the first place. I emptied the tank completely but made no efforts to clean it before cutting. Diesel will burnb but slowly with lots of smoke. To explode it pretty much has to be under compression, which is hard to accomplish outside the confines of a cylender and piston. I started the hole with a "General" hole cutter, which has an adjustable arm with a cutter bit. Very dangerous. Once I got a groove cut in I switched to a jig saw blade which followed the groove and gave me a near perfect round hole. The cover was made of 1/2" clear Lexan with 12 screws and Permatex form a gasket for the seal. After cutting I scoured the inside of the tank with a long arm scrub brush (insert the word "toilet" here) and lots of soap and water to get rid of the shavings andbiological growth which had formed in my tank while sitting for a few years before I bought it. water was removed from the tank with a wet shop vacuum. After being thouroughly rinsed and checked for shavings the tank dried in the full sun for a day before installation. While I was at it I mounted a dip tube fuel pick-up dead center in the tank to reduce the possibility of sucking air when rolling badly while under power. Now with the help of a mirror I can see into the tank, and if I have to I can get into it.
J
John Benz
Access to fuel tank
I just did this to the tank in my Hunter Legend 37. Before you cut make sure that you are well clear of any baffles in the tank. Mine had a baffle down the middle of the tank. I cut two ports, one on each side of the baffle. Drain the tank and pump out as much of the diesel as possible. I used a pump that afixed to my drill motor. I then made forms or templates out of cardboard for the size hole I wanted to cut. Make your template at least one inch larger than the hole you want to cut. ie: if you want your hole 5x7 make your template 6x8. Mark your hole on the template. Drill four holes at each corner of the size hole you want and then use a saber saw to connect the holes. I first tried to use a dremmel tool but it was hard to control and made a jagged cut. I presume that a roto zip tool would also be hard to control. Anyway I had no trouble with the saber saw. Once you have your holes then you must clean the tank of the metal shavings and other debris. I used diesel fuel and a wet/dry shop vac to do this along with a lot of rags and paper towels. Use your template to measure and cut an aluminum plate to cover the hole. Aluminnum is cheap at any sheet metal shop or junk yard. I used a metal saw blade atttached to my radial arm saw to cut this plate. The blade I purchased from Sears and was the most expensive part of the project. Once you cut your plates drill your screw holes in them. I used self taping screws, sheet metal screws may also work. Make sure you get large enough screws. I did not and they did not hold the plate down tight enough and I had to replace them with larger screws, which was no big deal just had to drill slightly bigger holes. You also need some sort of a gasket. I went to a gasket company and told them what I was doing and they reccomended a Nitrile gasket. The material they gave me free as it was such a little job I guess the trouble to charge was more trouble to them than it was worth. You could also use liquid gasket material such as "Form A Gasket" or such as that. Make sure if you use this however it is compatable with diesel. I again used my template to cut the gasket. Make sure your screw holes are spaced evenly I spaced mine at each corner and then one inch apart around the plate. Put template, plate and gasket over the hole and drill your screw holes in the tank. Make sure if you are cutting more than one inspection port that you mark which template and plate and gasket goes to which port as one may not fit the other port. I was very careful about even marking each plates poaition on the respective port. Once your cover plate, gasket and port all have screw holes then put all together and make sure of the fit. I then took all apart and again cleaned out the tank of any metal shavings and debris vacuming as much as possible to get all out. Re assemble being careful not to strip the screws or holes. You have to tighten the plates so as to squeeze the gasket material pretty good. I cut my gasket one inch wide to correspond with the plate and could observe the gasket being squeezed outside the plate like caulking would. When you fill your tank have some one at the tank to observe for leaks and tighten the screws as necessary. There will probably be some leakage so prepare with material to soak up any leakage and keep the fuel out of your bilge. I guess the worse part of the project was making the first cut and I talked to many people before I decided to do this. I am glad that I did now, as I have a way to periodiocally clean out the tank. I also was fortunate to have people near by who could advise me when I had questions. If you need any further info contact me Jebb44@AOL.com or here.
I just did this to the tank in my Hunter Legend 37. Before you cut make sure that you are well clear of any baffles in the tank. Mine had a baffle down the middle of the tank. I cut two ports, one on each side of the baffle. Drain the tank and pump out as much of the diesel as possible. I used a pump that afixed to my drill motor. I then made forms or templates out of cardboard for the size hole I wanted to cut. Make your template at least one inch larger than the hole you want to cut. ie: if you want your hole 5x7 make your template 6x8. Mark your hole on the template. Drill four holes at each corner of the size hole you want and then use a saber saw to connect the holes. I first tried to use a dremmel tool but it was hard to control and made a jagged cut. I presume that a roto zip tool would also be hard to control. Anyway I had no trouble with the saber saw. Once you have your holes then you must clean the tank of the metal shavings and other debris. I used diesel fuel and a wet/dry shop vac to do this along with a lot of rags and paper towels. Use your template to measure and cut an aluminum plate to cover the hole. Aluminnum is cheap at any sheet metal shop or junk yard. I used a metal saw blade atttached to my radial arm saw to cut this plate. The blade I purchased from Sears and was the most expensive part of the project. Once you cut your plates drill your screw holes in them. I used self taping screws, sheet metal screws may also work. Make sure you get large enough screws. I did not and they did not hold the plate down tight enough and I had to replace them with larger screws, which was no big deal just had to drill slightly bigger holes. You also need some sort of a gasket. I went to a gasket company and told them what I was doing and they reccomended a Nitrile gasket. The material they gave me free as it was such a little job I guess the trouble to charge was more trouble to them than it was worth. You could also use liquid gasket material such as "Form A Gasket" or such as that. Make sure if you use this however it is compatable with diesel. I again used my template to cut the gasket. Make sure your screw holes are spaced evenly I spaced mine at each corner and then one inch apart around the plate. Put template, plate and gasket over the hole and drill your screw holes in the tank. Make sure if you are cutting more than one inspection port that you mark which template and plate and gasket goes to which port as one may not fit the other port. I was very careful about even marking each plates poaition on the respective port. Once your cover plate, gasket and port all have screw holes then put all together and make sure of the fit. I then took all apart and again cleaned out the tank of any metal shavings and debris vacuming as much as possible to get all out. Re assemble being careful not to strip the screws or holes. You have to tighten the plates so as to squeeze the gasket material pretty good. I cut my gasket one inch wide to correspond with the plate and could observe the gasket being squeezed outside the plate like caulking would. When you fill your tank have some one at the tank to observe for leaks and tighten the screws as necessary. There will probably be some leakage so prepare with material to soak up any leakage and keep the fuel out of your bilge. I guess the worse part of the project was making the first cut and I talked to many people before I decided to do this. I am glad that I did now, as I have a way to periodiocally clean out the tank. I also was fortunate to have people near by who could advise me when I had questions. If you need any further info contact me Jebb44@AOL.com or here.
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