About to order some new cloth

[Witzend]

from National Sail Supply (Dirk Sharland) http://www.nationalsail.com/


Thank you for your inquiry regarding new sails for your Catalina 310 (I = 42.75, J = 11.75, P = 37.25, E = 13). Based on these rig dimensions, pricing is as follows:

Mast furling mainsail - 7oz dacron, Sunbrella UV on clew (choice of color), 50mm clew block installed, luff tape to suit existing furling system - $1,290

135% roller furling genoa - 7oz dacron, Sunbrella UV protection on leech and clew (choice of color), luff tape to suit existing furling system - $1,379

Sail comes standard with leech line with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes and sail bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large corner reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.

Any comments?
Witz

 

[pk104]

I like the price. I recently got a quote from Doyle for a headsail. 155 made of 5.5 Dacron was $2060 and a 135 made of 6.5 Dacron was $2160.

 

[Witzend]

I like the price. I recently got a quote from Doyle for a headsail. 155 made of 5.5 Dacron was $2060 and a 135 made of 6.5 Dacron was $2160.

Yea, so do I. In talking with Dirk, they are made in Thailand with US materials.
I need to get my measurements together. Especially the Head Sail Luff.
The original sail was cut too long and when hoisted pushed the end cap off the top of the furlowing drum. Although it seem to operate with out any resistance, it can't be good for the top cap should be acting as a bearing point.

 

[pk104]

I had the mast down this year to do maintenance and repairs. Found two things related to the jib furling. The end cap was off of mine also and the tube stop pin in the drum was missing which allowed the tube to slide to far down inside of the drum. I'm guessing that the tube was stuck in the drum and when I was hoisting the jib it didn't have room and displaced the end cap. The pin is a $7 item and if any one is interested is 3/8", 16 thread.

 

[Witzend]

I had the mast down this year to do maintenance and repairs. Found two things related to the jib furling. The end cap was off of mine also and the tube stop pin in the drum was missing which allowed the tube to slide to far down inside of the drum. I'm guessing that the tube was stuck in the drum and when I was hoisting the jib it didn't have room and displaced the end cap. The pin is a $7 item and if any one is interested is 3/8", 16 thread.

Great info, had not considered the possibility that the entire column has slipped down, that would have the same net effect. I will check this out.

 

[rpwillia]

Nice Info

Witz, Are those slab or radial cut? I am guessing for the price they are slab. A friend just got some sails that are radial cut and they are pretty sweet.

 

[Witzend]

I will ask, but for these prices it is probably Cross Cut.

 

[Witzend]

Confirmed, Cross Cut Cruising. Not planing on racing, but no question, Radial Cut holds it's shape better, I had a 155 on my Hunter 37 when I was racing made by Max Skelly that was great.

 

[sailliny]

How did you make out with National Sail Supply?

 

[Witzend]

Ok, I have been meaning to go over this, but had not had a chance to really shake them out.
First I want to indicate nothing but the best from Dirk, he is a great guy and really knows his business and takes care of his customers.

I have had some concerns and he has worked with me to get them resolved.

1) The 135 Head Sail has a 70mm clue ring with a bar across the middle, this was preventing me from inserting my whisker poll tang. Dirk offered to have it replaced no charge at a local sail loft. I changed the tang on the end of the whisker poll to solve the problem because I really did not want any one punching a bunch of new holes in an attempt to replace it. Bottom line, if you don't want a clue ring with a bar across the middle ("for offshore Strength as Dirk indicated) than order as such.
2) The 135 has a very high cut clue. This was causing (2) problems. First it was difficult for me to get the poll in the clue because my poll was maxing out on the top of the mast track. Second the leach of the sail was wrapping around the top spreaders. Dirk suggested that I defeat ~12" the pendant that is on the tack, this would effectively lower the sail.
This has helped with both of the problems. The poll can now be inserted, but just barely. The leach is now generally clear of the spreader, but will touch on a beat with light wind, load the sail and she is clear.
3) The main has no leach line cleat, so you really need to tension it before you pull the sail out and tie it into the grommet. You will find it will need to be re-adjusted because it will stretch.

The good points for the sails are that once you understand how to tune them they will preform very nicely. I had then out on Sunday, was gusting to 20 and did not have to reef! I also found that anything off a beat you will need to vang it to keep the leach from shuddering. Also because the clue is cut high on the 135 you will need to have the lead cars back further that you would on the stock sails. I use to have to poll the 135 at 120-125 deg off the wind, now I almost don't need to poll the sail. I think the higher clue is making the sail more stable, a little better visibility under it anyway.

The main rolls up real nicely now inside the mast.

BTW, Dirk offered to make me a new head sail with a lower clue, no charge. I could return the original one at the end of the season as long as it was still looking new.
I think I will keep them.

 

[sailingseadragon]

I purchased a new main for Sea Dragon a year a so ago from National Sails... Dirk was great to work with, great price, and he delivered on schedule, a wonderful sail -- I love the sail... I would buy from Dirk & National Sails again without hesitation...... I realize what I am about say does not apply to your main, but I offer this a suggestion to others.

However, if and when I buy another sail from National Sail, I will ask them to upgrade the attachment for the slugs on the sail. The main I have, has "cheap" plastic shackles that look like they were heat sealed closed. I have had several pop off when sailing. My plan is to remove all of the plastic shackle this winter and have them sewn on using webbing like the original sail.

But until then, I am enjoying the new sail and recommend you seriously consider buying your sails from them.

Garner