About that H37C bridgedeck traveler.
- Thread starter Ed Schenck
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Thanks Mark, took me awhile to get back here since I have been traveling. I really like your setup, very clean. Since I was here last Garhauer has determined that they can make one with the cleats at the ends. But for clearance I would lose almost 12 inches of track, six on each end. I could do what you have done either with a high track or with a plastic teak base. Or I could go with the cleats on the car. So still thinking.
Well Ed I'm sure you will make a good decision. I found the lack of holes to be a big deciding factor when I went with my set up. It was not the cheapest choice but I sure do like the way it turned out and the splice was easy to do, but I wish I had allowed about an inch more slack, but it keeps the cockpit cleaner. Its bad enough with the main sheet all over the place. One other thing you can sit over the hightrack and its level with the fiberglass so you are not sitting on a bump. And the lazeretts still open.
Hi All, I let this thread languish for awhile but do have some news and a question. I was able to get the old rail off in short order by drilling the heads off. Still need to remove the teak base which is holding fast.
And I did order the Garhauer MT-1 system and payed extra for six feet with cam cleats on the car. I also ordered new blocks to get 6:1 leverage on the mainsheet instead of 4:1.
The new rail will have holes like the original, every six inches. Garhauer recommends a bolt in every hole but I think four on each end and three in the middle would suffice. Anyone who has tried to even see the bolts under the bridgedeck will understand. The other holes could be screws into epoxy-filled original holes.
Another thought was to drill and tap a couple of short sections of stainless stock. I think that I could slide those into place to align with the holes in the traveler. One problem would be the lack of lock washers or lock nuts. Would appreciate your comments.
And I did order the Garhauer MT-1 system and payed extra for six feet with cam cleats on the car. I also ordered new blocks to get 6:1 leverage on the mainsheet instead of 4:1.
The new rail will have holes like the original, every six inches. Garhauer recommends a bolt in every hole but I think four on each end and three in the middle would suffice. Anyone who has tried to even see the bolts under the bridgedeck will understand. The other holes could be screws into epoxy-filled original holes.
Another thought was to drill and tap a couple of short sections of stainless stock. I think that I could slide those into place to align with the holes in the traveler. One problem would be the lack of lock washers or lock nuts. Would appreciate your comments.
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Ed, You probably don't want more than a six inch span between fasteners if there's any way possible to fasten it per the manufacturer's recommendation. The sheet car will put a tremendous vertical strain on the track in heavy conditions and you sure wouldn't want the track to lift and/or bend. JMHO. Best regards, Tom
Hi Ed:
For what it's worth, my traveler rail which appears to be the same original type/model as in your pic, does not use every hole to fasten. Here's a pic of my traveler and car to evidence its the same type as your original. But looking at my pic, I believe that the holes in my traveler are closer to 3" centers. I'll be at my boat tomorrow and will confirm. From the Owners' Manual specs, between my 36 and your 37, the mainsail has comparable square feet . If the Garhauer rail has only 6" centers, I would do your best to use every one as is their recommendation which would give the about same number of screws bolts as every other hole on our originals. Or if the Garhauer does has closer centers than 6" between holes, at least ascertain that the rail itself looks as thick/robust as our originals and won't bend with fewer fasteners than recommended. Hope that I have understood right!
For what it's worth, my traveler rail which appears to be the same original type/model as in your pic, does not use every hole to fasten. Here's a pic of my traveler and car to evidence its the same type as your original. But looking at my pic, I believe that the holes in my traveler are closer to 3" centers. I'll be at my boat tomorrow and will confirm. From the Owners' Manual specs, between my 36 and your 37, the mainsail has comparable square feet . If the Garhauer rail has only 6" centers, I would do your best to use every one as is their recommendation which would give the about same number of screws bolts as every other hole on our originals. Or if the Garhauer does has closer centers than 6" between holes, at least ascertain that the rail itself looks as thick/robust as our originals and won't bend with fewer fasteners than recommended. Hope that I have understood right!
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Thanks Tom, thanks Rardi. I think I have been writing "6 inches" since I started this thread. Just went and measured it in the garage. And you are correct Rardi, countersunk holes every four inches with holes in between. And you can kind of see that from my pictures. So I will try to figure out how to get a bolt into all twelve or thirteen holes in the six foot rail. 
Got this long box in yesterday's mail. Garhauer has delivered a fine looking traveler and mainsheet blocks. The bar seems very strong but I will do my best to anchor it every six inches as everyone recommends. The bridgedeck is very strong so there is no fear that it could be a weak point. But I suppose there is a possibility of bending the rail. Gonna' have to be very creative.
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