A Wonderful Day on the Waterway

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Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
I got underway in Charleston at dawn even though I couldn’t get through the bridge at the Isle of Palms until 0900 as I wanted to take a closer look at Fort Sumter. I was hoping for some nice early morning light but haze dulled the sunrise so this was the best I could do:



By the time I had run past the Isle of Palms, the sun was baking my back. This was a very nice change from the previous day which began in hand numbing cold deep enough to make getting the anchor up difficult. I spent most of the day in long underwear hunched against the cold headwind while negotiating twisty and challenging parts of the ICW. Having my speed reduce the slight southerly breeze so that I was steadily shedding layers was great.

The tide was very high as I traversed the marshes north of Charleston and they looked quite different. Much of what I remembered now looked like open water with the day beacons poking up and islands of very short grass on either side. It made staying in the channel much more difficult, especially with strong side currents. A key trick to this kind of navigation, once you know you can head straight towards a distant mark, it to watch it against the distant background. It is very easy to see if it is moving one way or the other against the horizon and you simply steer so as to eliminate any apparent motion. If it is not moving one way or another, you are heading straight towards it and only if there is no apparent motion. Cross currents show up instantlywhen you keep this viewpoint. It isn’t so much a matter of keeping the mark lined up with any specific point, but just keeping the side motion against the background to a minimum. Once you get close, you can then swing a bit to pass at the desired distance.

I eventually got into the long land cuts leading up to Winyah Bay. The air by this time had taken on that intoxicating character of the first really nice April day in New England when you know that winter has finally lost its grip. I was also getting close to trees again. For days, the trees have mostly been farther away than when I used to fly airplanes around at 2500 feet, just distant humps across the marshes. Having them close enough to see individual leaves and hear the wind in them was wonderful. It helped that they were also mostly of species that look a lot like what I’m used to in the Northeast. It was nice to start having hints of home on a day when I covered so many miles.



I could have sailed a lot of this portion but the forecast when I left was for heavy thunderstorms the next day and I wanted to be in Georgetown for those instead of anchored out in the open marshes I would come to later. So, I just kept droning along, fortunate to hit the tides just right. I rode the flood up to the top and hit the tidal watershed so as to ride the ebb back down the other side.

The wind began to rise insistently as I ran the final cut to the bay. Running up the bay to Georgetown, my quarter wave was breaking and I was experiencing rolling and motion unlike anything I have seen for months. I pulled into Georgetown after 62 miles in 10.5 hours and was rowing ashore minutes after anchoring for dinner at Aunny’s, my favorite restaurant. It was still light when I walked back to the boat. The days are getting longer.
 
Last edited:
Apr 29, 2011
134
Finnsailer 38 Massachusetts
Don't rush north too fast--still winter up here. Heavy snow expected tonight across northern New York and New England. Most people don't want to be north of Hatteras before May 1 at the earliest.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Most people don't want to be north of Hatteras before May 1 at the earliest.
I'm not most people:)

I expect progress will slow greatly when I get to North Carolina and have to wait for good weather windows to cross the big sounds. I plan to get into the Chesapeake about as early as I can where I will leave the boat and do a couple weeks of road trips. I also have friends around the bay to visit.

I don't need it warm, just not bitter cold and with frost on the deck. It could have been a late June day in Maine here today so I don't feel like I'm getting too far ahead of the weather.

My main objective is to watch spring come to the Chesapeake while I cruise around it. Come May, I'll start looking for the right weather to make the jump around New Jersey.
 
Apr 29, 2011
134
Finnsailer 38 Massachusetts
Depends on the year of course, but a couple of years ago I was delayed painting my boat in June in Massachusetts due to heavy frost. Of course you know New England, so you won't be surprised by cold weather. However, going north later in the season is so much easier: warmer weather, less north winds, fewer storms, etc. My ideal timing is June 1 in the Chesapeake and July 4th in Cuttyhunk. But if you have to get north, you have to get north...
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
Remember that I have cruised from Portland to Canada and back in May and that was before I installed my cabin heater.
 
Apr 29, 2011
134
Finnsailer 38 Massachusetts
If that's what you like, but most folks would prefer to do it in a warmer season, but you will have the advantage of being so far ahead of the crowd that there won't be any crowd! Have fun.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Roger, that was a very well written piece. It almost feels like I was there.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,047
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Nice piece, Roger. Another time to ignore the well intentioned input. They mean well but haven't been following you and your plans. Even before you get to NY NY, you do it "My Way~~~~....:):):)

Enjoy.
 
Aug 10, 2011
4
Charles Wittholz 32' ketch Guntersville
Thats a pretty good distance traveled. It took me 4 days to do what you did in two. I look forward to reading about the Chesapeake.
 
Jul 24, 2006
628
Legnos, Starwind, Regal Mystic 30 cutter, 22 trailer sailor, bow rider NEW PORT RICHEY, FL
lonesome?

Do I detect melencholy and lonely in your post Roger? How is your emotional health doing? I assume since you have'nt mentioned anyone in your last few post that you are singlehanded? No mention of holding in port for friends to visit, etc. So, what's it like being alone in paradise? Do you talk to yourself, yearn for social interaction, miss all your friends? Is this a big deciding factor in returnning north before weather is traditionally "right".
Being alone onboard my boat in strange waters and ports is something that I am interested in. Will I be lonely? THe books all taut the social interactions in foreign lands with potlucks, interacting with the native peoples, etc, etc. In fact the one I'm now reading "cruising in Seraffyn" 25th anniversary edition by Lin and Larry Pardey mention that they have to make excusses to get some private time.
So, feel like telling us how your feeling? Thanks for the almost daily post and wonderful pics and blog. Might be the makings of a good book with some embellishments of course!
 

Jimm

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Jan 22, 2008
372
Hunter 33.5 Bodkin Creek - Bodkin YC
I'm not most people:)

I expect progress will slow greatly when I get to North Carolina and have to wait for good weather windows to cross the big sounds. I plan to get into the Chesapeake about as early as I can ............

My main objective is to watch spring come to the Chesapeake while I cruise around it. Come May, I'll start looking for the right weather to make the jump around New Jersey.
Chesapeake Bay wakes up in April - lots to see and fun goings on....... look forward to sharing some time. More cold yet, but yesterday was 60s and sunny in Annapolis. Started to de-winterize the boat.
 
Jun 28, 2005
440
Hunter H33 2004 Mumford Cove,CT & Block Island
Truely a Wonderful day

So, I just kept droning along, fortunate to hit the tides just right. I rode the flood up to the top and hit the tidal watershed so as to ride the ebb back down the other side.
You brought back a good memory, we had a similar experience last year, catching the tide just right, it was like a downhill sleigh ride to Georgetown with a following wind as a kicker, hit 8.8mph on the GPS.
The wind picked up as we entered Wimyah Bay from behind us, as we reached our turnoff to Georgetown, the waves had built on the following sea, and we actually surfed the boat on them.

Long days on the ICW can still be real fun when the weather and tide gods smile.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
. So, what's it like being alone in paradise?
Well, with cell phones and Internet, cruising is very different than a decade ago. I said to a friend the other day that I think I've finally hit the wall on being alone. I thought setting out on this trip that I would feel that way a lot but it's taken nearly 4000 miles. The time spent cruising in company with Lee and Lynn bought me some time on that, of course.

I'm fine traveling and pretty much being anchored out in nice remote places. I feel it more in ports and towns where I always seem to be the only person walking around alone. It's probably a cultural thing but restaurants seem to not quite know what to do when someone comes in to eat alone down here.

I have spent most nights reading on the boat since July so that is getting a little old. One reason for the long days recently is that I'd just as soon be moving and watching scenery go by. I'm also looking forward to getting to the Chesapeake where I have friends in several places.

I was greatly looking forward to the social aspects of the ICW when I met up with the snowbirds in Cape May. Since I'm interesting in exploring and not that interested in southern Florida and not going to the Bahamas this year, they all pushed on ahead of me.

The boat people I see now are mostly the ones that are never going to go anywhere (see my post "Skin Crawling" http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137766). It's depressing and I don't feel like I have anything in common with them. The fact that townspeople see an old guy anchored out on a small old boat and seem to think I do adds to the slightly uncomfortable feeling of not belonging when I'm in ports.

I'm still glad I didn't try to go on down to southern FL and catch up with the snowbird community when I read things like this from Cruisersnet:

http://cruisersnet.net/

I have to say the current state of Marathon was shocking. Just took a nice group of sailing students on a week long cruise. Never had the time to anchor in Book Key Harbor before so I decided what a great time to visit and show some West Coast sailors how great the Keys were. Again, not having spent any time in Marathon, I always thought of it as one of the few real cruising friendly areas down here in the Keys, a little taste of what I had in the Carolinas and Chesapeake.
Big mistake. I was embarrassed for my clients. Not only were we harassed in the anchorage by some very derelict live aboard boaters, yelling and screaming while pounding down beers and smoking at 9am, but walking the streets was a big wake up call. I’ll never take any clients to Boot Key Harbor again. So sad to have to make that statement.
Being a sailing instructor, I am trying to show cruisers in training what our lifestyle is all about. How to get safely from destination to destination and how wonderful it is to pull into that funky, cool little down, dinghy up and have great time, or sit in the cockpit and watch the sun go down.
Marathon does need a massive clean up, as true of many Key’s anchorage areas. Real cruisers are getting a bad rap from all the derelict boaters. But penalizing the active cruising community is not the way to accomplish this.
Marathon I don’t want to give up on you but you have a long way to go.
 
Jun 28, 2005
440
Hunter H33 2004 Mumford Cove,CT & Block Island
Think positive

You definitely are ahead of the migration, but...

Well, with cell phones and Internet, cruising is very different than a decade ago.
Skype works well to chat and see friends and family, while away, heck I'll even chat. Get a webcam if you don't have one.

I feel it more in ports and towns where I always seem to be the only person walking around alone. It's probably a cultural thing but restaurants seem to not quite know what to do when someone comes in to eat alone down here.
Georgetown seemed friendly and has less formal eateries. (Welcome Bikers) In general Pubs are more fun than restaurants.

At twilight don't miss the sky show tomorrow, and Sunday.

60 degrees here yesterday, 2" slush today, wind advisory for tomorrow for high winds with gusts to 55mph expected, you gotta love NE. Don't hurry back.
 
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