If your boat is in an area where it gets below freezing and you have a hollow rudder tube make sure you check to make sure there is no water setting in the tube or down inside the rudder. My 1981 Hunter 27 has a hollow rudder tube. Last year I noticed that there were some cracks in the top of the rudder. Water was seeping out of the cracks for a while but it finally dried up. I fixed the cracks but wondered how the water got in there. This fall I ran a rubber tube down inside the rudder via the rudder tube and pumped out a fair amount of water. I then put in some non-toxic anti-freeze down the tube and pumped it out again. This spring I’m going to drop the rudder down a couple of inches and check the top for cracks also. I have put tape over the top of the rudder tube until the boat is covered with a winter tarp. Now I have to find something I can cover the top of the rudder tube with. Something that will keep out the water and also let it tube breath. I talked to a surveyor about this and he said he sees cracks in most of the rudders he looks at that are set up like mine, Pearson, Ericson, Hunters, etc. He said the water either gets in at the top of the rudder where it meets the rudder post, or it gets in from the top of the rudder post if left open. The water freezes and cracks the side of the rudder. Most of these rudders are built with closed cell foam so if the water is taken out I think the only thing to worry about is rusting. Anybody got any ideas on a top vent cap for my rudder post?
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Jeff
Don't forget
to cover the rudder with light colored plastic if the boat is stored outside. The sun can do real damage.
to cover the rudder with light colored plastic if the boat is stored outside. The sun can do real damage.
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Paul Akers
Me too
I have had a problem with water permeation also. You may want to place a coffee can lid (or similar) to cover the top of the post. 2 years ago my rudder split along the bottom seam from water inside the rudder and the repairs were costly. Last year I drilled 1/4" "weep" holes across the base of the rudder on eash side for winter storage and this helped. I had to reseal the holes for last spring's commissioning, but it was worth it. It seems that while the rudder is in the water, the water enters where the rudder stock enters the top of the rudder.
I have had a problem with water permeation also. You may want to place a coffee can lid (or similar) to cover the top of the post. 2 years ago my rudder split along the bottom seam from water inside the rudder and the repairs were costly. Last year I drilled 1/4" "weep" holes across the base of the rudder on eash side for winter storage and this helped. I had to reseal the holes for last spring's commissioning, but it was worth it. It seems that while the rudder is in the water, the water enters where the rudder stock enters the top of the rudder.
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Ken Palmer
Why don't manufacturers...
put a replaceable plug on the bottom-side of the rudders? My surveyor recommended drilling holes in the bottom of the rudder every year to drain any water, then filling them in the spring. It sure would be easier to take out a plug then screw it back in before launch.
put a replaceable plug on the bottom-side of the rudders? My surveyor recommended drilling holes in the bottom of the rudder every year to drain any water, then filling them in the spring. It sure would be easier to take out a plug then screw it back in before launch.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
What's preventing you from installing one?
Or, if you're mechanically challenged, having a shop put one in for you? Every little thing like that the builder does just adds to the cost of the boat, which in turn adds a lot more to the price than it would cost owners to make all those little mods themselves or even pay someone to do it. In this case, it would be something that only be needed on about half the boats, but would add to the price of all of 'em. Owning a boat has always meant having a lot of DIY projects...this sounds like a very good one.
Or, if you're mechanically challenged, having a shop put one in for you? Every little thing like that the builder does just adds to the cost of the boat, which in turn adds a lot more to the price than it would cost owners to make all those little mods themselves or even pay someone to do it. In this case, it would be something that only be needed on about half the boats, but would add to the price of all of 'em. Owning a boat has always meant having a lot of DIY projects...this sounds like a very good one.
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Ted
rudder water
Last year I epoxied my hull and in the process found water in the rudder. I drilled about 50 half inch holes in it and let it sit during the winter lay-up. If I had to do it again I would drill one hole at the top and a few right in the bottom. I would use air pressure to blow air through the rudder to force out the water and to try to dry it up. It took a very long time for the rudder to dry up inside. Air cannot circulate inside because of the foam inside. The key is to make that seal at the top perfect. I used 3M 5000 as it is the best I have found. When my boat comes out this winter I plan to drill into the bottom to see if there is water there again.
Last year I epoxied my hull and in the process found water in the rudder. I drilled about 50 half inch holes in it and let it sit during the winter lay-up. If I had to do it again I would drill one hole at the top and a few right in the bottom. I would use air pressure to blow air through the rudder to force out the water and to try to dry it up. It took a very long time for the rudder to dry up inside. Air cannot circulate inside because of the foam inside. The key is to make that seal at the top perfect. I used 3M 5000 as it is the best I have found. When my boat comes out this winter I plan to drill into the bottom to see if there is water there again.
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Carl E. Sohl
Sealing the rudder
I just brought my 1984 cutter(10/3) and I am in the process of buying a new rudder($1510.+ shipping). I will be sealing the rudder with 2000(Interlux)and using 3M product to seal shaft to Interlux coating. I will be runing this by the boys at Annapolis boat show this weekend. Carl
I just brought my 1984 cutter(10/3) and I am in the process of buying a new rudder($1510.+ shipping). I will be sealing the rudder with 2000(Interlux)and using 3M product to seal shaft to Interlux coating. I will be runing this by the boys at Annapolis boat show this weekend. Carl
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Ed Schenck
Carl's new rudder.
Carl, is your new rudder to be a duplicate of the original '84? I wonder if there were improvements from the earlier models like my 1979? I assume from Foss Foam, I guess I could contact them. Mine seems OK but it might be cheap insurance to buy a new one before venturing too far out.
Carl, is your new rudder to be a duplicate of the original '84? I wonder if there were improvements from the earlier models like my 1979? I assume from Foss Foam, I guess I could contact them. Mine seems OK but it might be cheap insurance to buy a new one before venturing too far out.
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Ed Allen
pushing out the water with air.
I dont reccomend this at all. the rudder is a foam filled chamber with steel supports runnig through it. If you vent it with a very small hole on top and a few on the bottm it will drain slowly and let any accumulated water that is not trapped excape. I would under no conditions put any pressure on the top. this may cause the sides to pull away from the foam and greatly reduce the strength of the rudder. I think they are fairly expensive for a spare part or a just in case situation if you dont have any signs of problems. Big Ed
I dont reccomend this at all. the rudder is a foam filled chamber with steel supports runnig through it. If you vent it with a very small hole on top and a few on the bottm it will drain slowly and let any accumulated water that is not trapped excape. I would under no conditions put any pressure on the top. this may cause the sides to pull away from the foam and greatly reduce the strength of the rudder. I think they are fairly expensive for a spare part or a just in case situation if you dont have any signs of problems. Big Ed
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