As I said I might increase the scope beyond 2:1 in 90 ft if I sense the need. That ultimately means “hanging” on the rope-chain splice b/c all of the chain would be veered. I have Suncor’s stainless steel chain, too, which retails now @ $23.56/ft. Not counting the boat itself, that means I would have about $4,500 of SS ground tackle riding on a $30 rope-chain splice. 
I have the splice done at the WM rigging shop to ease my concern somewhat, and I replace it every few seasons. With all of the chain veered there no need for a snubber to absorb shock per se , but you still might wish to protect and back-stop the windlass. That means a tying hitch, such as a rolling hitch, to the rode past the windlass and stopping it to a deck cleat. Of course, to recover you must untie it.
To be effective (i.e., to grip) the hitch line should be a smaller size. That is 1/2” 3-strand nylon rope to hitch to the 5/16” nylon rode. 1/2” 3-strand is plenty strong normally, but now you have everything riding on a splice and undersized snubber, instead of a fully chain rode with a 5/8” 3-strand snubber line and chain hook. My options are: 1) lie to 2:1 scope, all chain w/oversized snubber line; 2) increase scope and lie to an undersized snubber line (unless removing it or not using one) and rope-chain splice; or 3) move to shallower water where I can get 3:1 scope, all chain, etc. The options we are discussing for you are to carry less chain which puts you into the above set of choices, or keep the long chain so you can anchor in deep water at 3:1 or better.
As always, it depends! However, the risk of dragging at 2:1 scope in deep water is probably much greater than the risk of failure of a new (undamaged) rope-chain splice, etc. So, you could back-up a shorter length of chain with 200 to 250 ft of nylon 3-strand rode of the correct size with a professional rope-chain splice and deploy as you see needed, etc.
I have the splice done at the WM rigging shop to ease my concern somewhat, and I replace it every few seasons. With all of the chain veered there no need for a snubber to absorb shock per se , but you still might wish to protect and back-stop the windlass. That means a tying hitch, such as a rolling hitch, to the rode past the windlass and stopping it to a deck cleat. Of course, to recover you must untie it.
To be effective (i.e., to grip) the hitch line should be a smaller size. That is 1/2” 3-strand nylon rope to hitch to the 5/16” nylon rode. 1/2” 3-strand is plenty strong normally, but now you have everything riding on a splice and undersized snubber, instead of a fully chain rode with a 5/8” 3-strand snubber line and chain hook. My options are: 1) lie to 2:1 scope, all chain w/oversized snubber line; 2) increase scope and lie to an undersized snubber line (unless removing it or not using one) and rope-chain splice; or 3) move to shallower water where I can get 3:1 scope, all chain, etc. The options we are discussing for you are to carry less chain which puts you into the above set of choices, or keep the long chain so you can anchor in deep water at 3:1 or better.
As always, it depends!
However, the risk of dragging at 2:1 scope in deep water is probably much greater than the risk of failure of a new (undamaged) rope-chain splice, etc. So, you could back-up a shorter length of chain with 200 to 250 ft of nylon 3-strand rode of the correct size with a professional rope-chain splice and deploy as you see needed, etc.
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