A Rudder Problem

[Ron Hore]

We sail on Lake Winnipeg which is similar in size to Lake Erie. Lake is generally shallow and can get rough quickly, sometime large swells but often choppy.Last summer, starting out on the first day of a two week cruise, we had following wind and 3 to 4ft waves. Steering was very stiff and the boats wanted to round up into the wind. This is not the first time I have noticed this situation sailing in similar conditions. By the time we had reached port (trip of 5-6 hours that normally takes 7 to 9 hours) one of the rudder brackets was bent.We have an early 1997 model 26X purchased in April 1997.  I notice that later models have a different bracket and the rudder blades are a different shape.My questions for the MacGregor experts out there:- should I simply replace the bracket?- should I replace the brackets and fit th enewer rudder blades?- would either of these solve my steering problem?Look forward to hearing from anyone with experience in this!

 

[Capt. Kimo]

Rudder Problem Possible Solution

Sounds like you have a problem with the tension on your shrouds and forestay. Lower shrouds should be tense with a low pitch sound when plucked. Upper shrouds with a louder pitch sound when plucked (like a harp). The forestay should be tense to finger tight. If continue to round up, pull back the center board line 4" to pull the center of force back aft.Personally, don't think aluminum rudder brackets worth repairing. They are cast aluminum and a weld repair would soon give way again. You might consider reinforcing the bracket in some way with overlapping aluminum bar secured to the original and screwed into the transom on the ends of the bar. New stainless steel brackets require drilling new set of holes and new rudders to fit. That would be my plan B.

 

[Craig laForce]

excess weather helm overstresses steering

I just discovered this site as I usually use the minnesota web host macgregor26X site. Its interesting to see a lot of the old discussion topics that are also discussed here. You are correct that the 26X will usually have a strong tendancy to round up into the wind in brisk conditions with the original setup. This excess weather helm will overstress the steering and can result in either bent brackets or stripped helm steering gear. By tilting the mast forward an inch or two, (adjust the forestay turnbuckle shorter and loosen or lengthen the shrounds to compensate and let the mast tip forward a bit) this can be corrected and the sail center of effort will be closer to the cennter of lateral resistance and the boat will steer with just your little finger reducing the stress on your steering system, your arms, and the boat will sail faster since the rudder stops acting like a brake in the water. I added turnbuckles to my shrouds and backstay since I was unable to get the proper shroud tension otherwise. Although it probably is theoretically possible by repeatedly raising and lowering the mast with the mast raising system (making adjustments when the shrouds are loose). You should already have turnbuckle on the forestay. If you have a roller furler it is under the black plastic thing and still easy to access if you look at it or the furler instructions for a minute. minute.  I would suggest ordering replacement rudder brackets from Macgregor in Ca (or maybe from Havencraft if they have them). Personally, I would keep the old style rudders that came with the boat. The new ones look a little too small to me. I would also suggest that you rig the rudders to kickup if you hit bottom. This can be done in several ways. I replaced the hold-down rope with a 9 ft length of heavy bungee line. If I hit bottom (happens several times a year in the shallow bay I sail, the rudder just pops up without damage and returns to the original position when in deeper water. I have actually sailed across 12 inch shallow areas (just for a few moments and quite unintentionally) without damage other than some minor gel coat abrasion on the rudders and centerboard. Some others use some sort of slippery hitch on the hold-down rope that they claim will pop loose if they hit bottom. It is also worth noting that the rudders need to be firmly in the down position or they will loose mechanical adbantage in steering and this will also very greatly overstess the brackets. Someone actually sheared them right off their boat as I recall. The new steering systems are indeed stronger (rack and pinion and stainless brackets) but to me this is trying to compensate with equipment for improper setup and operation. (if you have to apply more than 15 - 20 bs to hold your steering wheel there is something badly wrong that needs corrected. An d beefing up the steering equipment is more like treating the symptom rather than getting to the root cause and fixing it. Hope this helps. If you need more details you can search the other website for the posts by myself and several others I have a 1997 26X Craig