A New Project!

Nov 1, 2017
635
Hunter 28.5 Galveston
Howdy Y'all,

Greetings from Galveston, TX! Even as we approach the fall season it's still hot as a hand grenade here in the Deep South, which is why I've decided to adopt a new boat (for free). Her name is currently "Miss Guided" (I'd like to re-christen for sure) and she is a semi-cared for 1985 Hunter 28.5. I have almost zero experiences with Hunters as a Catalina guy, but I read some very good reviews on this boat and got excited. Free boat? Slip fees covered for a year? What could possibly go wrong? ;) There will be more photos and a project list coming very soon. As always, any pointers or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

Sincerely,

Simon Sexton -- Youth Sailing Coordinator, Sea Star Base Galveston
 

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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,140
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Congrats Simon...
SBO Shop and Staff, Simon "Say hello to your little friends".

They know the boat, the equipement and how they are put together - or taken apart.

Good luck with your late summer project.
 
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HMT2

.
Mar 20, 2014
900
Hunter 31 828 Shoreacres, TX
Hey Simon, I live in Houston. I recently sold my boat and have some marine plywood to donate to your cause. I have some teak veneer and teak and holly. PM me and I will tell you what all I have. It’s not full pieces but there are some pieces big enough to work with
 
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Nov 1, 2017
635
Hunter 28.5 Galveston
UPDATE: Priority 1A is making sure the boat is weatherproof during the first stages of the project. I'm not the least bit surprised when I found that every. Single. One. Of the hatches and ports leak like The Dutchman. The solution: White Gorilla Tape and painter's tarp. Works like a charm. The central AC also works, along with the rest of the cabin electrical, but the bilge pump is acting up a bit and most likely just needs replacing. We thought covering all the leaking deck fixtures would prevent water from entering the bilge, but this morning there was still water in there. Hard to tell whether it was fresh or salt. We didn't run the AC last night either, but at this point it could be a number of different things. The next step in the process is cleaning the hull, un-seizing the 2GM15HP Yanmar, and beginning interior renovation (moderate water damage to wooden cabinets, shelves, cabin sole, etc.). Thank you all for your support and I will be posting later this week with some footage.
 
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Likes: Grumps
Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
Congrats Simon, I have been working on a 25.5 Hunter for a little while and am in the finishing stages at this point coming along pretty well.
 
Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
She's been sitting the water for 10 + years (no maintenance), can ya tell ? Some before and after shots of the bulkhead, Dining table, vanity and hull attached. Painting Now, good Luck with yours, Long process, but she'll be worth it when completed !
 

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Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
Thanks Kap, still gettin 'er there, will be a nice Cruiser when done ! The dining table really sets it off and the LED's in the Cabin, which encompass entire cabin area, can be set to whatever color, but for video, I had em cycling through all, really cool.
 

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Nov 1, 2017
635
Hunter 28.5 Galveston
@RockynHilda ,

WOW! That is excellent work! Thank you for sharing your project with us, it is definitely helpful to see different ways of redoing interior woodwork. I love it!
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,140
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Not all boats need to be teak/mahogany interiors with Teak&Holly on the cabin sole.

Very nice work on the table and bulkheads.
 
Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
Aye Aye Sir ! All Teak has been refinished and wiring redone so all is well, just painting is left at this point, as you can tell from the picture after having received "Udershe", which is what I have named 'er. After all she is my "Other She", there was no trailer for 'er, looked and looked, but was unable to find one, so we actually built the trailer shown in about 4 days, as we had to remove 'er from the slip at the lake. Here is how the trailer looks now, as well as equipment fabbed for stepping the mast. Designed and built the trailer from the picture below found online. Also installed a winch for stepping the mast atop of the winch bracket for ease of stepping alone control cable is about 15' long so I can attend the cables while in process. Side Brackets for Baby Stay attachments and mast clamp to stabilize the mast as it is stepped.
 

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Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
Not all boats need to be teak/mahogany interiors with Teak&Holly on the cabin sole.

Very nice work on the table and bulkheads.
Thank you Sir, Cedar is what that is on table and bulkheads, I like the colors and have it as well in my home. Cabinets, Stair rails, Treads, Trim and Doors are all cedar at home.
 
Jul 14, 2022
46
Catalina 30 MkII 4876 Portland, OR
Thanks Kap, still gettin 'er there, will be a nice Cruiser when done ! The dining table really sets it off and the LED's in the Cabin, which encompass entire cabin area, can be set to whatever color, but for video, I had em cycling through all, really cool.
That table looks great. I'm going to be working on a table for our C25 because the stock one is a bit dismal and unwieldy - how did you do the finish? Is it just multiple layers of epoxy? I'd love to hear how to accomplish that gloss + (I assume) protection (what was used, timing between coats, sanding?). Most of my (non marine) work is planing to a smooth finish, boiled linseed oil and either wax or poly (with sanding between coats), but I feel like I'm going to need something more for the environment - both the marine part and the heavy usage part. :)
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,140
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
smooth finish, boiled linseed oil and either wax or poly (with sanding between coats), but I feel like I'm going to need something more for the environment - both the marine part and the heavy usage part.
You are right about the exposure issue. Water (moisture) and normal boat use takes it‘s toll on boat wood. More so on the exterior than the interior.

My observations lead me to use finishes that can be reapplied with minimal fuss. Varnish is the popular choice. It breath’s and stretches allowing the underlying wood to expand and contract from exposure to the elements. Reapplication can be done easily, especially if you are diligent to not let it get bad.

The gloss you seek can be found by multiple applications ( coats of varnish).

I have become a fan of Total Boat products. Gleam for high gloss exterior work. Halycon for interior satiny finish (the look of hand rubbed wood). Easy to work with. Up to 3 coats a day applied without sanding between coats. Levels smoothly allowing application using a brush. Lots of guidance is available on their sight.
 
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Likes: Qorgyle
Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
That table looks great. I'm going to be working on a table for our C25 because the stock one is a bit dismal and unwieldy - how did you do the finish? Is it just multiple layers of epoxy? I'd love to hear how to accomplish that gloss + (I assume) protection (what was used, timing between coats, sanding?). Most of my (non marine) work is planing to a smooth finish, boiled linseed oil and either wax or poly (with sanding between coats), but I feel like I'm going to need something more for the environment - both the marine part and the heavy usage part. :)
It is an epoxy that I got from Total Boat and was only one coat, follow the instructions and works well, bout 1/4" thick, no sanding surface just a little cleanup around the edges !
 
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Likes: Qorgyle
Jul 14, 2022
46
Catalina 30 MkII 4876 Portland, OR
1/4" thick, no sanding
That sounds ideal, to be honest! 1/4" seems quite chunky. Was it just this stuff? Table Top Epoxy

a fan of Total Boat products
I only know them because that's where Louis Sauzedde gets all his stuff, and that man's a genius. However, my (very limited) understanding was that the only way to "maintain" varnish was to sand it/scrape it/dissolve it all down and start over (which is why most of my stuff is oils, which you just reapply, maybe a bit of rewax and a buff, the end).

Reapplication can be done easily, especially if you are diligent to not let it get bad
So maybe the above is just for if you let it go too long, or have something you want to replace? How do you maintain yours? I'm going to revisit this when it's time to redo the topsides and get rid of all the Cetol on the brightwork, although my gut feel is that I'm going to go with Semco teak sealer for - again - simplicity's sake. But for this interior space, I think the tabletop epoxy's gonna be a winner for me.

Oh, found a little end note on the varnish page at TB's site.
Spare yourself this aggravation with a little annual maintenance that requires scuff-sanding back the top layer of varnish, wiping the surface clean, and applying a coat or two of varnish to add depth and maintain the UV protection.
That ... doesn't sound bad at all. Now I'm having grandiose thoughts about redoing all the interior teak ... if it even IS teak and not just a veneer over ply. :)

Thanks both @RockynHilda and @jssailem! Lots of food for thought here.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,140
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I'm having grandiose thoughts about redoing all the interior teak
What ever it is a light sanding with 220 or 320 grit
#180–#220FineFinal sanding of bare wood and sanding between coats
#320 and upUltra-FinePolishing wood
will give the surface a bit of teeth to hold the varnish. The Halycon is water based and low voc, can be used in the cabin. I still like to wear a mask filtered for organics.

As they say get a small amount and put it to the test.
 
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Likes: Qorgyle
Jul 23, 2020
87
Hunter 25.5 Broken Bow
That sounds ideal, to be honest! 1/4" seems quite chunky. Was it just this stuff? Table Top Epoxy


I only know them because that's where Louis Sauzedde gets all his stuff, and that man's a genius. However, my (very limited) understanding was that the only way to "maintain" varnish was to sand it/scrape it/dissolve it all down and start over (which is why most of my stuff is oils, which you just reapply, maybe a bit of rewax and a buff, the end).


So maybe the above is just for if you let it go too long, or have something you want to replace? How do you maintain yours? I'm going to revisit this when it's time to redo the topsides and get rid of all the Cetol on the brightwork, although my gut feel is that I'm going to go with Semco teak sealer for - again - simplicity's sake. But for this interior space, I think the tabletop epoxy's gonna be a winner for me.

Oh, found a little end note on the varnish page at TB's site.

That ... doesn't sound bad at all. Now I'm having grandiose thoughts about redoing all the interior teak ... if it even IS teak and not just a veneer over ply. :)

Thanks both @RockynHilda and @jssailem! Lots of food for thought here.