I plan to install a manual windlass on my 86 H34. Any suggestions on how would be appreciated, especially photos. Bob
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Bob, I just posted some on my site. Warning, 72
snaps up now. But why go manual? I'm sure it fits your situation. Just wondering.
snaps up now. But why go manual? I'm sure it fits your situation. Just wondering.
Fred, I already have the windlass!
Fred, Thanks for the reply. I have printed out a number of your related photos. They are great. Regarding manual vs electric, I bought a new manual windlass on E-Bay for about half the normal price. Regarding your installion, I assume that the hole below your windlass allows your chain to enter the anchor locker. Does this work ok? I use 25' of chain (sized for the windlass) plus 200 feel of line. I have debated as to the winch location- in front of the locker such as you have done or behind the locker mounted on the deck. Any thoughts on this???? Thanks again, Bob
Fred, Thanks for the reply. I have printed out a number of your related photos. They are great. Regarding manual vs electric, I bought a new manual windlass on E-Bay for about half the normal price. Regarding your installion, I assume that the hole below your windlass allows your chain to enter the anchor locker. Does this work ok? I use 25' of chain (sized for the windlass) plus 200 feel of line. I have debated as to the winch location- in front of the locker such as you have done or behind the locker mounted on the deck. Any thoughts on this???? Thanks again, Bob
In the locker?
I also bought a manual windlass on E-Bay. A brand new S-L, saved a bundle. I cut a three inch hole in the bottom of the anchor locker on my H37C and glassed in a hawse PVC pipe. Then I glassed in a 3/8" pad and bolted the windlass on top of that. The chain drops directly into the pipe and down to the keel. Had to be careful to line up the windlass with the bow roller and still clear the sampson post. Your locker may not be deep enough but this works well on my boat. Still room for a lunch hook and rode. And nice to have the deck clear.
I also bought a manual windlass on E-Bay. A brand new S-L, saved a bundle. I cut a three inch hole in the bottom of the anchor locker on my H37C and glassed in a hawse PVC pipe. Then I glassed in a 3/8" pad and bolted the windlass on top of that. The chain drops directly into the pipe and down to the keel. Had to be careful to line up the windlass with the bow roller and still clear the sampson post. Your locker may not be deep enough but this works well on my boat. Still room for a lunch hook and rode. And nice to have the deck clear.
More flexibility with manual
When you're installing an electric windlass, you absolutely have to have a long, straight fall for the rode so it can stack in the locker without the operator getting their hands near the goings-on of the windlass. With a manual windlass, you can probably help the rode into the locker with your hands or feet without risking amputation. There's additional safety based on the fact that everything is happening a lot more slowly
So, in my opinion a cabin top mount would be acceptable. But I like Ed's solution best, that's almost exactly what I did when I installed my electric. Straight down. Paul
When you're installing an electric windlass, you absolutely have to have a long, straight fall for the rode so it can stack in the locker without the operator getting their hands near the goings-on of the windlass. With a manual windlass, you can probably help the rode into the locker with your hands or feet without risking amputation. There's additional safety based on the fact that everything is happening a lot more slowly
So, in my opinion a cabin top mount would be acceptable. But I like Ed's solution best, that's almost exactly what I did when I installed my electric. Straight down. PaulYup, straight down is what's needed
The windlass instructions said that going in. My web site photos say that seatrials have proven the instructions to be true! How about that! Realy, cutting out the bottom of the locker is a snap and has to be done. Bob, thanks for the nice words. I put even more photos on line last night. The count is up to nearly 80.
The windlass instructions said that going in. My web site photos say that seatrials have proven the instructions to be true! How about that! Realy, cutting out the bottom of the locker is a snap and has to be done.
Bob, thanks for the nice words. I put even more photos on line last night. The count is up to nearly 80.Fred, a couple more questions!
Fred, Did you post any photos regarding your cutting the bottom of your anchor locker for your windlass chain? Also, I want to mount some solar cells and noticed your arch. Do you have any measurements for this as I would like to have one made? Thanks again for your help. Bob
Fred, Did you post any photos regarding your cutting the bottom of your anchor locker for your windlass chain? Also, I want to mount some solar cells and noticed your arch. Do you have any measurements for this as I would like to have one made? Thanks again for your help. Bob
Bob, I haven't even decided which tool to use yet
The part of the locker bottom that will be cut out is the lowest section holding the drain hose. The hose will be removed of course, and the new hole installed earlier at the bottom of the void will take over drainage duties. I expect the job to be pretty staightforward. The arch is a one off, custom piece. I got the idea from a Robert Perry design. Mine was the first one ever built by Railmakers in Everett WA. It is about 6' high. That puts the radome at over 8'. Just about right. The tube size is one inch. Don't do that. Use 1 1/2" tube. It makes snaking wires so much easier. As far as the fine points of what you want to do, I would start with a shop that does this type of work. The easy way is to have them come aboard for measurements and then draw it up for you. There is also a shop out of Florida that does arches and will AIR MAIL IT TO YOU! Railmakers told me that they would replace my arch with the bigger tubes for $1800. The original was $1100.00 in 1990. Too much to replace something that WORKS. Also arches are everywhere now in the Caribbean on cruisers. Just too many good things about them. Email me at ss427@tscnet.com if you need some close up shots. (too boring for the web) Good luck. Fred
The part of the locker bottom that will be cut out is the lowest section holding the drain hose. The hose will be removed of course, and the new hole installed earlier at the bottom of the void will take over drainage duties. I expect the job to be pretty staightforward. The arch is a one off, custom piece. I got the idea from a Robert Perry design. Mine was the first one ever built by Railmakers in Everett WA. It is about 6' high. That puts the radome at over 8'. Just about right. The tube size is one inch. Don't do that. Use 1 1/2" tube. It makes snaking wires so much easier. As far as the fine points of what you want to do, I would start with a shop that does this type of work. The easy way is to have them come aboard for measurements and then draw it up for you. There is also a shop out of Florida that does arches and will AIR MAIL IT TO YOU! Railmakers told me that they would replace my arch with the bigger tubes for $1800. The original was $1100.00 in 1990. Too much to replace something that WORKS. Also arches are everywhere now in the Caribbean on cruisers. Just too many good things about them. Email me at ss427@tscnet.com if you need some close up shots. (too boring for the web) Good luck. Fred
Pictures
I don't know if my installation is a lot like Fred's but I have pictures. My boat is a 336, very similar to your 34.. I cut a hole in the bottom of my anchor locker, and through the headliner, down to a small area under the vee-berth. I was afraid to use PVC so I bought a 1/4" aluminum pipe on eBay. In hindsight, I'm sure the PVC would have worked fine. Paul
I don't know if my installation is a lot like Fred's but I have pictures. My boat is a 336, very similar to your 34.. I cut a hole in the bottom of my anchor locker, and through the headliner, down to a small area under the vee-berth. I was afraid to use PVC so I bought a 1/4" aluminum pipe on eBay. In hindsight, I'm sure the PVC would have worked fine. Paul
Paul, great workmanship,
Your installation design was my first choice but on the 34 I can think of no way to drain to the bilge. Can't even reach the shower sump and it is just aft of the vee berth. Again, good work! Fred
Your installation design was my first choice but on the 34 I can think of no way to drain to the bilge. Can't even reach the shower sump and it is just aft of the vee berth. Again, good work! Fred
Thanks, Paul & Fred
Many thanks for the help. Just hope that my installation looks and works as great as yours. Bob
Many thanks for the help. Just hope that my installation looks and works as great as yours. Bob
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