i use an ac - dc clamp on multimeter for a lot of electrical repair work. the dc current measure clamp on feature is most handy for figuring out where a boat wire is pinched or broken, which is a real time saver . my last meter was a $$$$ fluke model 374 which was the only manufacturer offering both ac and dc current clamp on 6 years ago. Lo, the 374's current measure feature totally quit working. fluke now wants $265 + tax and shipping to replace the meter, as 'the current clamp on feature is unfixable.' after getting frustrated with a few $30 throwaways claiming ac dc current capability, i found the amp robe acdc 100 --which does everything the fluke did, for $137 compared to $375. the price. now i can spend the week end fixing my various broken dc wires ...
A Great DC current - measure clamp - on meter..
- Thread starter MitchM
- Start date
I've been using a Klein CL2000 for about 5 years, I use to do RV solar design, and it has performed flawlessly. I check the DC clamp on against an in line meter (shunt and direct) several times a year and it has been dead on every time. With some of the lower priced meters they don't post their safety ratings ie Cat4 at 600 volts like this Klein. I had a Radio Shack cheapy melt and sizzle while checking 240 volts 30 years ago and got lucky I wasn't holding it at the time like I normally would. At least Gunni's purchase has a Cat 3 rating. 
Amprobe is good stuff, and is under the same corporate holding company as Fluke, Tektronics etc... Amprobe's US headquarters address as the same as Fluke so they are apparently even in the same building these days.. While Amprobe is not Fluke, from what I understand they do share some purchasing and manufacturing and perhaps these days, even engineering.
I don't find Amprobe holds up as well as Fluke for daily use, and I went through two LH41A's in pretty short order, (at $350.00 a pop) but for a boat owner, you're not doing daily use stuff anyway. My LH41A's were replaced by an Extech 380942 and it too is not as robust as a Fluke, but it is still going. The Extech does both AC and DC leakage current, plus voltage, and with an extremely low mA level accuracy of 0.1 mA for AC and 1 mA for DC..
On the boat I use a cheap Uni-T UT207 (about $100.00 - $130.00) and it is okay for general use stuff but it is no Amprobe, Fluke or even Extech. It is pretty kludgy, very plastic, rather inaccurate (started out ok but drifted), and certainly proves the "you get what you pay for" mantra. For the average boat owner it is fine but for daily use not so good...
I don't find Amprobe holds up as well as Fluke for daily use, and I went through two LH41A's in pretty short order, (at $350.00 a pop) but for a boat owner, you're not doing daily use stuff anyway. My LH41A's were replaced by an Extech 380942 and it too is not as robust as a Fluke, but it is still going. The Extech does both AC and DC leakage current, plus voltage, and with an extremely low mA level accuracy of 0.1 mA for AC and 1 mA for DC..
On the boat I use a cheap Uni-T UT207 (about $100.00 - $130.00) and it is okay for general use stuff but it is no Amprobe, Fluke or even Extech. It is pretty kludgy, very plastic, rather inaccurate (started out ok but drifted), and certainly proves the "you get what you pay for" mantra. For the average boat owner it is fine but for daily use not so good...
I have been using this one for a year with no problems.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HNW18Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since I use it for annual checking normal or if I have a problem.
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My son-in-law has a Fluke for his professional uses and was impressed.
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Here is what I think is the key for a tightly spaced wiring found on a sailboat...
The clamp on probe dimensions!
The smaller the the probe width the better.
Jim...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HNW18Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since I use it for annual checking normal or if I have a problem.
_______
My son-in-law has a Fluke for his professional uses and was impressed.
_______
Here is what I think is the key for a tightly spaced wiring found on a sailboat...
The clamp on probe dimensions!
The smaller the the probe width the better.
Jim...
i considered the one gunny purchased , even talked to the mfgr. rep. but the specs were that 4 amps is the min it will measure. often i need to know if there's less than 4 amps current in a circuit (such as , when there's a pinched wire to a bulb, etc... )
Rather than a clamp on for the boat, consider putting in a DC Volt/Amp meter on your DC system. I found a DC Volt/Amp meter with a 50 amp shunt (75mv) that I mounted below the DC panel in my boat. The DC meter shows the voltage and current used by the boat (not the Starter motor), even down to the tenths. Do a search on Amazon for "digital volt amp meter display" for some of the options that are available.
The 75mv shunt is mounted in the negative lead return to the battery and another line to the 12v positive for powering the meter. It's nice to see what your load is on the boat, including water pump, cabin lamps, fans, etc., at a glance.
Mike
The 75mv shunt is mounted in the negative lead return to the battery and another line to the 12v positive for powering the meter. It's nice to see what your load is on the boat, including water pump, cabin lamps, fans, etc., at a glance.
Mike
Got those also!
But...
They don't show DC currents on many small wiring circuit components or stray currents from boat grounds.
Jim...
While a house amp meter won't locate a potential drain, a decent quality one will tell you if there is a drain. Turn off the main battery switch and the 24/7 circuits and the meter should read zero.
Gunni, that's not what the rep told me when i called and asked for min max Amp/ volt data. o well i am happy with the more $$$ one i got.
All- thanks for the suggestions on DC AC amp/volt meters. -- my boat has a Mastervolt integrated control panel . the MICC panel allows me to see lots: volts, amp-hour consumption, AH, set peukert , and the like. the hand held AC DC clamp on meter is for when i am 45 feet up the mast having replaced one light bulb, and still getting no light, or on deck curious why my windlass deck switch is not functioning properly.
All- thanks for the suggestions on DC AC amp/volt meters. -- my boat has a Mastervolt integrated control panel . the MICC panel allows me to see lots: volts, amp-hour consumption, AH, set peukert , and the like. the hand held AC DC clamp on meter is for when i am 45 feet up the mast having replaced one light bulb, and still getting no light, or on deck curious why my windlass deck switch is not functioning properly.
This post caught my attention and I realize I may have been missing something. Grew up using a multimeter (Simpson 260 for the very old folks) and Fluke etc. Always kept a good meter onboard and used it so many times.
I've used the amperage readings before including using a shunt for larger current draws. I have seen the clamp on, but thought they were only for AC, so looks like they can now do DC, so that I did not know.
Anyway I'm curious what are some typical uses for checking current draw troubleshooting on boat? For instance I would check broken wires with a volt meter at the spot that was not working. I did use the amperage when I was evaluating some LED replacement lights a few years ago but just don't find the need for amps drawn that often. BTW I'm not say it's not needed just trying to expand my troubleshooting knowledge.
I will admit I've used the temperature thermocouple that came with my Fluke a few times for stuff (icebox, sea water, beer etc...
)Thanks....