A couple more dinghy questions

[Nodak7]

Ron, thanks for the reply. I have read the thread Sumner referred too. It is just not clear to me how this system would be installed on my dink. My D rings are down on my tubes. About the 4 o'clock position. I agree with your methodology for attaching to the transom. My question is do I run the lines under the tubes from the transom to the D rings or over. If they run under or over it seems that it would wear on the tube material and put up, or down, strain on the D Ring. The back of my tubes are pointed so that adds some problems as well. Which does not allow me to run the lines directly along the sides of the tubes.

 

[druid]

To be honest, I think complicated bridles don't really do much, and are a pain to set up. I do use a bridle from the side D-rings, but just used one from the front ring on all my hard dinks - I really haven't seen much difference. That said, I kinda like the two-lines method - surely you have stern cleats for your dock lines that you could use? I'd think they'd be a pain to work with while you're docking, though.

BTW: I've used PVC dinks for years - never had a problem with them.
druid

 

[Sumner]

Ron, thanks for the reply. I have read the thread Sumner referred too. It is just not clear to me how this system would be installed on my dink. My D rings are down on my tubes. About the 4 o'clock position. I agree with your methodology for attaching to the transom...........

It sounds like yours is a lot like mine. Here is ..................

................what I'm going to try. I have the "V" lines now from the forward "D" rings going........

.....to the three chain links. I'll Probably make that 5 links and run the lines from the "D" rings to the outer links. Then run the lines from the transom to the next links in on both sides. That will leave the middle link to snap the tow line onto.

I'll set it up so that the lines to the transom are taut and the lines to the "D" rings will have just a little slack. While towing I'll hope for most of the pull to be on the transom. I'm also hoping that the side lines down to the "D" rings will keep the tow line centered and will keep the dinghy from wanting to swap ends while it is towed.

As you can see there is a lot of "hoping" there . I won't know how I like it until I try it, but it will just take a second to go back to what I have now that works. Also since the 4 lines that attach to the dinghy attach via snap hooks it is very easy and quick to put on or off. When I'm in the dinghy I'll just unsnap the transom lines and put them on the floor in front of the seat where I put the forward "V" bridle now. I don't see a big problem with the lines. Also if I want to tow with the forward bridle only I won't snap on the transom lines. Seems pretty simple to me.

I will continue to tow as much as possible without the outboard mounted. Right now it....................

................................. Dinghy Towbar Mod

...tows pretty flat and has towed with no problems. With the outboard on it is a different matter and tows with the bow further in the air than I like. I'm hoping that the lines from the transom over the bow will help to hold the bow down some.

One last thing and that is I'm going to try flat webbing straps for the transom lines for at least the area where they go over the tubes at the bow to stop chaffing there.

Well good luck,

Sum

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[jibes138]

Watch out for chafe

I'm not sure i would want webbing rubbing on the tops of my tubes while being towed all over the planet. Chafe seems like a real concern. I have seen significant damage to the fabric from lines and other hardware rubbing on it. If you go in this direction you might want to bond a couple of patches on the bow to act as sacrificial wear pads.

 

[TropicalPengy]

Hey manny,
Ive towed many many hundreds of sea miles, and highly recomend and agree with the bridle system, removing the outboard, and many other suggestions, also recomend if your model has those nifty little grommets where the hand hold lines are that you get a piece of old sail and make some quick connect clips to make a cover for the skiff, if it does flip it will reduce drag, will keep from being swamped, will keep the fuel cans/oars/ditch bag tied to floor as a seat in, and can function as a sun shade should the worst happen (a rapid main vessel loss) highly recomend if your transom of the main boat will allow, that you add stern rings with glue and patch grommets, then you can flip the dink backwards to your transom and only tow the bow in water which will redue drag, tow your skiff relativley close to avoid dramatic yawing of the dink when bow towing, also stern rings will give you the option of making a lift harness for hauling the dink on deck easier with your halyards for cleaning. happy cruising