A/C

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steve rainey

Has anyone ever tried putting in a small window A/C unit inside the cabin. I have a Hunter 30' 1978. Myself, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Of course would have to drain to the bilge and vent out thru the cabin top. Maybe with a fan to assist. I want something thats inexpensive, and easy to maintain. A 5K BTU is under $100. I even have I think a perfect spot already built into my boat. On the gally side next to the closet.
 
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ed

ac

Rather than cut up the boat why dont you install one on a hatch board and slip it in and out when you need it. Lots cheaper and no real problems. and you dont carve up a good boat for a cheap ac. unit.
 
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river9150

AC

I installed a small 5k unit in the companionway. First cut three boards to fit. First board in a "u" shape to fit entrance and for A/C. Second board fits across A/C. The third is cut and removable for access. I didn't have any problem steping over the A/C into the cabin but my wife did so plan two is now in the works. Keep us informed on the progress.
 
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Ed Schenck

Many posts on the subject. . .

here on HOW. One consensus is that you will be very disappointed with only 5K. My 12K is adequate on Lake Erie(H37C) but then it is circulating cold lake water. Big difference from air-cooled. The back(outside end) almost has to be outside the boat or built in to a very large plenum that leads outside. But study the archives to see what others have done. The most common is the hatchboard idea. One friend used the home A/C but over the v-berth hatch.
 
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Michael C.

Window A/C through forward hatch

I considered the companionway hatch idea, but didn't want the A/C blocking it, so I put a 5k unit on top, with the face of the A/C against the open forward hatch. I made a canvas cover that snaps to the A/C, and to snaps that I installed around the hatch (using existing screw holes). I sewed lead shot in to the "skirt" of the canvas to keep it against the deck, and keep the wind out (don't drop overboard!). I used a cheap piece of closed cell foam (Wal Mart sleeping bag pad) to form a divider between the cold air outlet, and the return, to make sure the cold air makes it into the cabin. I put cheap hardware store handles on the top case of the A/C unit, for lifting and carrying handles, and I used large white rubber bumpers to make no skid/no mar feet for the A/C. I use the handles as lash points to secure the A/C to the deck, so that it doesn't move around. The canvas makes it bug and rain proof, and it has withstood some very heavy rain storms w/o leaking a drop. When it's time to sail, I set it on the dock, and snap the canvas over it to keep it dry (it will also fit my dock box, or in the cabin). The A/C and lead shot were on hand, and the only cost to me was for the canvas, snaps and closed cell foam for about $25 total cost, plus some labor at the sewing machine. It keeps the cabin very cool, in 95+ heat. I did buy some bilge blower hose, that I can wedge into the cold air vents (sans louvers) to route the cold air wherever I want it, but I found it was unnecessary, as the A/C cools the entire boat. Michael Carter "Windswept" Hunter 26
 
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Dancing Bear

A/C on H30

A small window unit is installed at the foot of the quarter berth through the end bulkhead. Fits perfectly, and the exhaust hot air is removed with the aid of a 110vac duct fan. I usually leave the lazarette lid open when A/C is on. Cost was about $80 for A/C and $25 for the fan. Works best at night for sleeping. Henry Weber
 
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