My problem is similar to Victors. The unit will start fine as long as the batteries are at 100% and the charger is opperating, but if out sailing for a couple hrs and the unit cycles, it will not start. It tries but then kicks out and will try to restart in a couple min. The problem is not the batteries. Is the starting capacitor going bad and is it replaceable,or is the unit just going bad. Craig Steinkraus " Wings " C-38 #280
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One more thing..
Just something else to check... If the unit has been doin g this since installation, then it might be that the wire size from the breaker to the A/B unit is too small. You might try checking the voltage level at the breaker when the unit is running, and also at the unit itself. If the voltage varies more than 3% less from the breaker to the unit, then the unit has undersized wiring. This would explain why it works on a full charge, but won't start when the level drops just a bit. If this is the problem, then you need to move the unit closer to the breaker to shorten the leads or go with bigger wire. It might be easier than replacing controls...and it might just be the problem.
Just something else to check... If the unit has been doin g this since installation, then it might be that the wire size from the breaker to the A/B unit is too small. You might try checking the voltage level at the breaker when the unit is running, and also at the unit itself. If the voltage varies more than 3% less from the breaker to the unit, then the unit has undersized wiring. This would explain why it works on a full charge, but won't start when the level drops just a bit. If this is the problem, then you need to move the unit closer to the breaker to shorten the leads or go with bigger wire. It might be easier than replacing controls...and it might just be the problem.
Bigger wire
I second the previous writer. These things are extremely sensitive to voltage drop. It's the starting current, not the running current. They need a jolt to get started and if the wiring is too small and the batteries down even a little bit, it won't start. Take the recommended wire size and go a size larger just to be sure. I installed a new unit last year. It stops working when the battery voltage is plenty high enough for it to run. But the starting load pulls it down and it won't start. Will be fixed this year.
I second the previous writer. These things are extremely sensitive to voltage drop. It's the starting current, not the running current. They need a jolt to get started and if the wiring is too small and the batteries down even a little bit, it won't start. Take the recommended wire size and go a size larger just to be sure. I installed a new unit last year. It stops working when the battery voltage is plenty high enough for it to run. But the starting load pulls it down and it won't start. Will be fixed this year.
Ditto on Wire Size
The problem with electric motors are that they require a LOT of current to start up. The reason for that is they create an electromagnetic field so part of the energy from the initial surge of electrons goes toward building this field. The problem is the armature wants to start turning as soon as there is enough electromagnetic field and then it has to overcome the mechanical resistance/friction but because the armature is directly connected to some device it also has to exert force and start to work. In order to get things up and going the initial surge of current required, rule of thumb, is about 3.5 times the steady-state motor output. The question is how to size the conductors for the steady-state current or provide larger conductors to help the motor get it's start. In the course of their operation, both the Adler/Barbour and the autopilot both start a lot so my recommendation is to use larger conductors. Things to consider: 1. In sizing the conductors one has to use the entire round-trip circuit length, that is, from the positive battery post all the way to the load and then back again to the negative battery post. In most installations this is a very l-o-n-g trip! We upped our battery cables from about #4 to #00, the panel cables from about #10 to #2, and used #6 to the refrigeration unit. And we've never had any troubles with our Adler/Barbour in over eight years. My plan is to install a small subpanel near the battery banks primarily for large loads in order to shorten the round-trip to the main panel. 2. Also, if there are any other loads such as lights, forced air heater, water pump, etc. using power when the refrigeration kicks on then there will be a larger instantaneous voltage drop. Motors like high voltage or they will get ruined. The glow plug in a forced air heater also really likes high voltage. 3. You can't adequately measure the instataneous voltage drop with the typical multitester; this takes a scope. 4. Bad or poor connections are another thing to look at. Check out the archive web site below. Use bigger conductors, tin plated marine grade conductors and connectors and the electrical loads will be a lot happier!
The problem with electric motors are that they require a LOT of current to start up. The reason for that is they create an electromagnetic field so part of the energy from the initial surge of electrons goes toward building this field. The problem is the armature wants to start turning as soon as there is enough electromagnetic field and then it has to overcome the mechanical resistance/friction but because the armature is directly connected to some device it also has to exert force and start to work. In order to get things up and going the initial surge of current required, rule of thumb, is about 3.5 times the steady-state motor output. The question is how to size the conductors for the steady-state current or provide larger conductors to help the motor get it's start. In the course of their operation, both the Adler/Barbour and the autopilot both start a lot so my recommendation is to use larger conductors. Things to consider: 1. In sizing the conductors one has to use the entire round-trip circuit length, that is, from the positive battery post all the way to the load and then back again to the negative battery post. In most installations this is a very l-o-n-g trip! We upped our battery cables from about #4 to #00, the panel cables from about #10 to #2, and used #6 to the refrigeration unit. And we've never had any troubles with our Adler/Barbour in over eight years. My plan is to install a small subpanel near the battery banks primarily for large loads in order to shorten the round-trip to the main panel. 2. Also, if there are any other loads such as lights, forced air heater, water pump, etc. using power when the refrigeration kicks on then there will be a larger instantaneous voltage drop. Motors like high voltage or they will get ruined. The glow plug in a forced air heater also really likes high voltage. 3. You can't adequately measure the instataneous voltage drop with the typical multitester; this takes a scope. 4. Bad or poor connections are another thing to look at. Check out the archive web site below. Use bigger conductors, tin plated marine grade conductors and connectors and the electrical loads will be a lot happier!
Thanks for the help !
This is not a new installation, but I'll check all the involved wiring and make sure there is not a poor connection or splice somewhere that may be the problem. I also will check the compressor before ordering a new control module. Thanks again to all ! Craig Steinkraus
This is not a new installation, but I'll check all the involved wiring and make sure there is not a poor connection or splice somewhere that may be the problem. I also will check the compressor before ordering a new control module. Thanks again to all ! Craig Steinkraus
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