We will need to see a copy of the diagrams in your owner's manual to tell you anything. It's all about elevation.
Hi Shaggy! Vented loops are not needed in any toilet discharge line that ONLY goes to the holding tank. They are needed in any line that connects to a below-waterline thru-hull...toilet direct overboard discharge and/or holding tank overboard discharge and they need to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT MAX HEEL, same as the one in the toilet intake line.
No vented loop on the discharge lines (not needed IMHO), but do on the intake lines. The one for the forward head is located through a removable panel. Go to the most forward cupboard in the main cabin and on the left hand side of it you will see a removable panel. The vented loop is in there. The one for the aft cabin is in the engine room; and it is not the one on the starboard bulkhead next to our Genset. That is the one for the main engine.
just placed my order for 15 ft of the Saniflex from Defender and plan on doing the work this weekend as long as the hose arrives.
Just typing faster than I'm thinking because my vacuum breaker is exactly where you describe it in the loop, between the pump discharge and the bowl.
To replace the old with the new, at the toilet end use a nylon barbed butt connector fitting, then wrap with electrician tape to make sure they do not separate. Wipe on some lubricate to the new to help with sliding through. Have one crew push the new while the other pulls the old out. Should go smoothly. At least it did when I replaced the aft cabin discharge hose.
Most marine toilets can only move bowl contents up to about 6' without a LOT of help from gravity. You can create that help with a high loop in the discharge line immediately after the toilet (easy to do with SaniFlex hose). Aim the discharge fitting straight up and run the hose to create a loop that's at least 2 feet above the bowl (even higher would be better but no higher than 4' cuz that's as far as your toilet can lift). You'll only have to pump long enough to move bowl contents over the top of the loop...gravity will get them the rest of the way to the tank. You can even use the dry mode, followed by enough water to rinse behind the flush.
Jabsco no longer makes the proprietary joker valve that fits our toilet. Even the smallest do not fit. No worries, as the toilet works just fine.
The macerator motor assembly (not really a pump) works just fine, so no need to replace. And no leaks.
Our toilet electric macerator has no cylinders. The motor shaft and fixed metal assembly works much like a blender that also brings in sea water as it spits bowl contents out the discharge hose. Pretty simple and effective.
These Jabsco electric toilets have no dry mode. Either the sea water valve is open or closed. In order to achieve a dry toilet I have to close the valve and then run the flush motor until dry. Normally, that is what I do after each cruise where I flush two gallons of fresh water to clear the hose of any remaining material. The aft discharge hose does not gravity feed all the way to the tank. There is a hose low point to the stringer that encloses the tank. The hose then rises about ten inches to cross through the stringer and into the tank. That is where the clog was that I covered in a previous thread. My thought was that the PO, over time, did not clear the hose with fresh water, which caused the clog to form in the first place.
! Thanks.
Oops...where did I get the idea your toilet was a Jabsco manual??? However I'm pretty sure that your toilet does have a PUMP/motor assembly..the macerator is only a device that has a lot in common with a blender blade. The pump is a couple of impellers that pull waste out of the bowl and push it down the discharge line.
Yes, Peggie. They're integrated on the same motor shaft and both metal; cast aluminum as I recall..
