9.2A cutless bearing
- Thread starter BobM
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Guess not...for future reference
It is a 1" ID by 1.25" OD by 4" (it could take a 5, but I didn't find one in that OD. By the way...you can squeak a two bladed prop past the rudder without removing it if you are doing the cutless bearing. It probably helped that I soaked the old bearing with penetrating oil, which degraded the rubber making it more flexible. The key in the shaft (2QM15) is made to move forward into the coupling to facilitate removal. Otherwise you might have to sacrifice the stuffing box hose ($20), as I did, to have enough room to press out the coupling ala Don Casey's suggestion in Good Old Boat. I had to use three different "spacers," a short 5/8th socket, one of the coupling bolts with two nuts threaded on to protect the threads and a deep socket, to press it out. You will need a long set of bolts (I think mine were 2.5 or 3 inches) the same diameter as those in the coupling...not too long as they will hit the transmission. Buy extra nuts too (8). When my bolt proved too long I threaded some extra nuts on them to shorten them so they wouldn't hit the cover. It was certainly doable, but I have bruises on my bruises across my chest from leaning over the quarter berth access port for hours. I also didn't realize that the key went forward. It was so stuck it probably wouldn't have worked anyway, but I ended up drilling down into the center to split it and then pried it out. A little damage was done to the shaft, but the shop indicated its a easy fix. By the way, I am replacing the old coupling where you have to press the shaft in and out with a new style that has a clamp on saddle. That will be worth its weight in gold to me during the re-install and in the future. The prop wouldn't come off on the boat. Once off I mounted it in a black and decker work mate with the prop flush to the edge of the deck to hold it, threaded the nuts on to the end of the shaft to protect the threads and then whacked it with a big hammer. I cracked a nut, but it finally came off. Prior to that I had broken or damaged three prop pullers. Bob
It is a 1" ID by 1.25" OD by 4" (it could take a 5, but I didn't find one in that OD. By the way...you can squeak a two bladed prop past the rudder without removing it if you are doing the cutless bearing. It probably helped that I soaked the old bearing with penetrating oil, which degraded the rubber making it more flexible. The key in the shaft (2QM15) is made to move forward into the coupling to facilitate removal. Otherwise you might have to sacrifice the stuffing box hose ($20), as I did, to have enough room to press out the coupling ala Don Casey's suggestion in Good Old Boat. I had to use three different "spacers," a short 5/8th socket, one of the coupling bolts with two nuts threaded on to protect the threads and a deep socket, to press it out. You will need a long set of bolts (I think mine were 2.5 or 3 inches) the same diameter as those in the coupling...not too long as they will hit the transmission. Buy extra nuts too (8). When my bolt proved too long I threaded some extra nuts on them to shorten them so they wouldn't hit the cover. It was certainly doable, but I have bruises on my bruises across my chest from leaning over the quarter berth access port for hours. I also didn't realize that the key went forward. It was so stuck it probably wouldn't have worked anyway, but I ended up drilling down into the center to split it and then pried it out. A little damage was done to the shaft, but the shop indicated its a easy fix. By the way, I am replacing the old coupling where you have to press the shaft in and out with a new style that has a clamp on saddle. That will be worth its weight in gold to me during the re-install and in the future. The prop wouldn't come off on the boat. Once off I mounted it in a black and decker work mate with the prop flush to the edge of the deck to hold it, threaded the nuts on to the end of the shaft to protect the threads and then whacked it with a big hammer. I cracked a nut, but it finally came off. Prior to that I had broken or damaged three prop pullers. Bob
Quarter Berth Access
Two years ago I replaced the Yanmar YSE12 (10hp) in my 9.2A with a Yanmar 3GMD (20hp). I also wanted to replace the water heater, the hoses and do some cleaning and painting in the engine compartment. To get access I removed the aft bulkhead (it's just screwed in place) and cut the inboard bulkhead with a circular saw about 2" above the quarter berth deck. After all the inside work was done, I made a splice about 3" wide and reinstalled the bulkhead with screws and T-nuts. If I need to get back in there for more extensive maintenance, I can remove the bulkhead again.
Two years ago I replaced the Yanmar YSE12 (10hp) in my 9.2A with a Yanmar 3GMD (20hp). I also wanted to replace the water heater, the hoses and do some cleaning and painting in the engine compartment. To get access I removed the aft bulkhead (it's just screwed in place) and cut the inboard bulkhead with a circular saw about 2" above the quarter berth deck. After all the inside work was done, I made a splice about 3" wide and reinstalled the bulkhead with screws and T-nuts. If I need to get back in there for more extensive maintenance, I can remove the bulkhead again.
Starboard Access
Yes, I did cut an access hole under the sink. Don't rememeber what the dimensions were, but I made it as large as possible, maybe about 12"X14", then made splice plates that I screwed in so that the hatch was removeable.
Yes, I did cut an access hole under the sink. Don't rememeber what the dimensions were, but I made it as large as possible, maybe about 12"X14", then made splice plates that I screwed in so that the hatch was removeable.
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