'86 O'Day 272 Continuous Thread for RLPeeples
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Black Button Mystery
In one of the attached pictures I have included on this thread, you can see a black button next to the yamaha rectifier and the set of wire connections. What is this black button? What does it do? It is just a standard spring resistance button. You press it in and it comes back out. It does not click into place when you press it or anything. Just a simple black button.
In one of the attached pictures I have included on this thread, you can see a black button next to the yamaha rectifier and the set of wire connections. What is this black button? What does it do? It is just a standard spring resistance button. You press it in and it comes back out. It does not click into place when you press it or anything. Just a simple black button.
I'll take a shot at guessing, but to know for sure you'd have to trace the wiring or turn on the power and see what happens.
A momentary switch like that might be used for a horn, or it could be for an electric bilge pump, the pump may be wired for automatic operation direct to the battery but you may also have ability to manually turn it on with a switch like this. It could also be to empty a holding tank with a pump. You want to only be pumping while you activate the switch. Can't think of much else you'd want that kind of switch for. Anyone else have other ideas?
A momentary switch like that might be used for a horn, or it could be for an electric bilge pump, the pump may be wired for automatic operation direct to the battery but you may also have ability to manually turn it on with a switch like this. It could also be to empty a holding tank with a pump. You want to only be pumping while you activate the switch. Can't think of much else you'd want that kind of switch for. Anyone else have other ideas?
Those are pretty good guesses, Jibes. We will find out what that button is good for whenever I setup power in the boat.
I guess for the rectifier to work, I must plug in the charge chord that is attached to the outboard, into the charging port that is on the back of the transom on the boat.
Thanks for solving that mystery.
I guess for the rectifier to work, I must plug in the charge chord that is attached to the outboard, into the charging port that is on the back of the transom on the boat.
Thanks for solving that mystery.
Hi RL. Just as the name implies they are fittings that go through the hull. My 27 has ten years on yours but has been in a cloudy northern area. Here are a couple of pics of one intact and one busted due to UV sunlight brittleness. They have a nut on the back to tighten them to the hull and a serrated end for connection to a hose. Take JK's advise and pick yourself up some new ones for peace of mind.
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Thanks 25. I'm guessing the two sinks in the cabin would drain out through the thru hulls, along with the cockpit drain. And the toilet drains into a waste holding tank.
Exactly RL. The 27 has one for the vanity sink, one for the galley sink that connects to the icebox drain also, and two for the cockpit. I think yours might be very similar.
RL, on my friends 272, the ones below the waterline were fine. It was the one above the water line that was subject to UV damage that gave us an issue.
However, it is really good practice to inspect the thru hulls and the seacocks regularly. If you PM me your email address I can send you a copy of a pre-launch checklist I have with all of the things that should be checked each year. Most of the items should apply with the exception of the diesel stuff but you have similar things on the outboard (like changing the impeller and lower end oil). In the NE, we pull our boats for the winter and that gives us the opportunity to check some things that you might not have access to while in the water but most of the things can be done in the water. The others you can do every couple of years when you pull the boat for bottom painting.
However, it is really good practice to inspect the thru hulls and the seacocks regularly. If you PM me your email address I can send you a copy of a pre-launch checklist I have with all of the things that should be checked each year. Most of the items should apply with the exception of the diesel stuff but you have similar things on the outboard (like changing the impeller and lower end oil). In the NE, we pull our boats for the winter and that gives us the opportunity to check some things that you might not have access to while in the water but most of the things can be done in the water. The others you can do every couple of years when you pull the boat for bottom painting.
My bilge pump through hull that goes out the transom was made of plastic and it had almost broken completely off after about 10 years. Real nightmare to get at it. I tried to replace it with bronze but the angle and limited space under the swim platform wouldn't let the bronze one fit so I put a new plastic one in. Good idea to keep a close eye on these.
Here's a great link RL on through hulls and seacocks. Goes to show we can all learn something from even a basic question. www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls&page
Dam,
25 yearslater beat me to it. I was going to refer you to Mainesail's site as well. Spend some time looking around at that site. There is a lot of good information.
Mainesail also has his own forum under the "Featured Contributors" section. You should spend time reading most of those posts. Don't be afraid to ask questions (even if they seem dumb) he is great at explaining this stuff.
JK
25 yearslater beat me to it. I was going to refer you to Mainesail's site as well. Spend some time looking around at that site. There is a lot of good information.
Mainesail also has his own forum under the "Featured Contributors" section. You should spend time reading most of those posts. Don't be afraid to ask questions (even if they seem dumb) he is great at explaining this stuff.
JK
Yes I have a suggestion. Mine broke right at the flange so it came right off with screwing around with the nut.
For easier access remove the plastic liner in the cockpit locker on the starboard side. Then I would cut through the flange from the outside, maybe use a hole saw or other tool to cut it real thin and then break it off. Now pulll out the hose and remove the clamps and barb. I strongly recommend you replace the hose at this time also.
Now comes the hard part clean the outside very clean and insert the new through hull with sealing compound. Thread the nut on the through hull from the inside. and try to find a way to tighten it. These must be put on at the factory before the deck, almost impossible to get a wrench in at that angle and turn it. Now put the new hose on with two clamps, this is the next exciting part, trying to tighten hose clamps in an impossible location. It can be done but at my age I'd be crippled for a week afterward. Definitely a job for young small flexible people.
For easier access remove the plastic liner in the cockpit locker on the starboard side. Then I would cut through the flange from the outside, maybe use a hole saw or other tool to cut it real thin and then break it off. Now pulll out the hose and remove the clamps and barb. I strongly recommend you replace the hose at this time also.
Now comes the hard part clean the outside very clean and insert the new through hull with sealing compound. Thread the nut on the through hull from the inside. and try to find a way to tighten it. These must be put on at the factory before the deck, almost impossible to get a wrench in at that angle and turn it. Now put the new hose on with two clamps, this is the next exciting part, trying to tighten hose clamps in an impossible location. It can be done but at my age I'd be crippled for a week afterward. Definitely a job for young small flexible people.
Progress
Well, had a good weekend with the boat. Took the mom out on it for mother's day after treating her to lunch; then I made some headway in restoring power to the boat by going out and buying a new battery. I discovered the old one on the boat was completely dead. So, I shopped around for the cheapest marine battery I could find, WallyWorld, for about 60 bucks; Swapped it out with the old battery, connected all the necessary wires and wallah, I have power in boat now. See attached pictures of the dome lights working as a result. All other running lights work now, too, including the deck light, as well as other things like fans and cd player. So now I can take my girlfriend out at night for a romantic time of stargazing without having to worry about getting back to the marina before sunset. It's going to be a great summer.
However, despite the good news, I'm quickly learning that as one problem is solved on a boat, a new one is brought to light. So here come some more questions of concern. Once I regained power by hooking up the new battery, I turned on a switch that's located on the bottom of the port aft cabin bulkhead panel (see attached picture), and discovered that it evidently turns on a "Diaphragm Pump" that is located in the starboard settee by the water holding tank. My thinking was that this "Diaphragm Pump" pulls water from the water holding tank and delivers it to the vanity sink fosset. So, I filled the water tank with water and turned on the "Diaphragm Pump" and opened the vanity sink fosset expecting water to flow into the sink. That did not happen. Shortly thereafter, water began to flow into the bilge from somwhere. So, my questions are this: Is my assumption about the "Diaphragm Pump" correct? If not, how do I get the vanity sink fosset working? And where on earth could the water have drained from that ended up flooding my bilge?
I'm attaching some more pictures of the boat enjoy.
Well, had a good weekend with the boat. Took the mom out on it for mother's day after treating her to lunch; then I made some headway in restoring power to the boat by going out and buying a new battery. I discovered the old one on the boat was completely dead. So, I shopped around for the cheapest marine battery I could find, WallyWorld, for about 60 bucks; Swapped it out with the old battery, connected all the necessary wires and wallah, I have power in boat now. See attached pictures of the dome lights working as a result. All other running lights work now, too, including the deck light, as well as other things like fans and cd player. So now I can take my girlfriend out at night for a romantic time of stargazing without having to worry about getting back to the marina before sunset. It's going to be a great summer.
However, despite the good news, I'm quickly learning that as one problem is solved on a boat, a new one is brought to light. So here come some more questions of concern. Once I regained power by hooking up the new battery, I turned on a switch that's located on the bottom of the port aft cabin bulkhead panel (see attached picture), and discovered that it evidently turns on a "Diaphragm Pump" that is located in the starboard settee by the water holding tank. My thinking was that this "Diaphragm Pump" pulls water from the water holding tank and delivers it to the vanity sink fosset. So, I filled the water tank with water and turned on the "Diaphragm Pump" and opened the vanity sink fosset expecting water to flow into the sink. That did not happen. Shortly thereafter, water began to flow into the bilge from somwhere. So, my questions are this: Is my assumption about the "Diaphragm Pump" correct? If not, how do I get the vanity sink fosset working? And where on earth could the water have drained from that ended up flooding my bilge?
I'm attaching some more pictures of the boat enjoy.
Attachments
Hey RL. You should do a thorough inspection of every locker and system on your boat to start with. Often to winterize a boat the water is drained from the tanks and the hose to the pump disconnected to prevent residual water from freezing and rupturing the hose. See if the hoses are all attached with clamps where they should be. Of course you could also have a leaky tank but even with a leaky tank you should get water pressure at the sink until the tank drains empty. A pressure water pump should cycle to create pressure then shut off automatically until the pressure is reduced by opening the faucet. Typically a boat will have two pumps on board, one for the fresh water and one to empty the waste holding tank for the toilet. This is called a macerator pump. Only use this three miles outside inlets in open ocean or you will be in violation of the law.
So inspect your systems and try to get a feel for how all this stuff works. Go to the west marine web site, they have all kinds of tutorial information about boat systems.
So inspect your systems and try to get a feel for how all this stuff works. Go to the west marine web site, they have all kinds of tutorial information about boat systems.
At this juncture it may be a good idea to invest in a 12 pack of beer and find a dock-mate to help you go through the various systems of your boat.
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