'86 Hunter 23 gunwale, (gun'l) deck and hull joint

[Mark Major]

While improving water tight integrity at the hull and deck seam I lifted the deck from the hull of my 1986 Hunter 23. Subsequently flexing the hull outside the deck perimeter I found, in the top edge of the hull, plywood sandwiched between the outer molded hull and "inner". If you look at this model you will see from the lines of the hull at the "rail" stands from the lines of the hull about 3/4", over which is attached the "rub rail". Under the rub rail is the upper "deck" section of the boat. Remove the rub rail and you will see screws about 6" apart that hold the deck to hull. I would wager that when you turn these screws inward they offer little resistance because said sandwiched wood is rotted. Remove these screws and set small wedges between the hull and deck, then pry with many 1/2"x6+" scraps of wood and lift the deck from the hull (be sure to loosen your turnbuckles between hull and deck for mast chainplates). I then cut the rear "bulkhead stringer" free from the hull (it was rotten; that's another story), relaxing the hull, so this was rather easy toward the rear half of the boat.This is an ongoing project and I will advise as it progresses. I am sharing this discovery at this point so that I may solicit suggestions regarding what to do. When this boat was manufactured they used 4"x1.5"x.5" pieces of plywood along the entire length of hull as sandwich pieces for the deck screws to hold to. Consider the stresses, and for the short term, what they did is ideal. This would suit me to replace with same, for I don't think I will sail another 20 years, but Hunter built a cult favorite and I want to do what is right for the next owner. I was thinking of some sort of hard rubber compound to replace removed sandwich material, but it has to hold a wood screw laterally as well as give vertical support. Any ideas? Flexibility between deck an hull seems favorable to me, so I am hesitant to use through bolts with oversized washers. I have 3M 5200 as a sealer between hull and deck, and have considered going hardware free as well by reinstalling the deck to hull with 5200 (after proper surface treatment) with screws, and then removing screws and injecting 5200 into screw holes.Don't caulk the lower edge of your rub rail.Mark Major'86 H23 Lesismor

 

[SweetTrade]

wow

hmm I dont know whta to say! Good luck keep us advised! I hope my 23 is that bad, although its 20 yeasr old so.... But I still love her!-Jeff

 

[Mike M16608]

Mark - you are scaring me

Actually, you are adding something here that I don't recall ever seeing for the H23. I followed everything until your last sentence where you said don't caulk the lower edge of the rub rail. Why not? Being in too much of a hurry and also too lazy to remove and rebed my rub rail, I did run a bead of clear silicone along the top edge. As it has aged, it tends to peel off, but I think it did stop one point of water intrusion. I never considered caulking the lower edge, but I'm guessing you say leave it alone to give the water someplace to go (other than through the screw holes), if it gets in to begin with.I did like your "cult favorite" characterization.Keep us posted. Mike - H23 Cult

 

[Mark Major]

Rub rail caulk

Mike, you are correct for my reasoning for not calking the lower edge of the rail. I would say this type of damage isn't so much from dipping the rail as just storage in the weather. My boat hasn't been in the water for months, but when removing this wood it is very wet.Something that might help determine if this wood is wet or rotting is drilling weep holes about 1-3/8" from the top of the hull at a couple points within the lazerette area. I have found with damaged wood any seepage is indicated by coffee colored stains. This might also allow any captured water to drain. Just a suggestion I'll let someone else try and learn from.Currently I am researching synthetic compounds to pour into this cavity; I will post my results.Mark Major'86 H23 Lesismor