85 hunter 22

[Chasemixon]

None of my external lights are working, I plan to dig into this tomorrow, but if anyone has any thoughts I would certainly appreciate any advice... I know the Mast lights have a ground that is supposed to connect to the mast, but does it have too? Can it be grounded to the boat instead? I've looked at the electrical diagram for the h22 but as I am really new and not an electrician it doesn't make a whole lot of sense...

 

[SeaTR]

My 1981 H22 does NOT use the mast as the return path. I have separate 12Vdc supply (+) and return (-) wires. For that matter, ALL loads have separate supply and return wires. It could be a number of things...how old is the wiring? You may have high resistance connections / open circuits at the fuse / breaker box...

 

[Chasemixon]

I'm sure the wiring is all original, so 22 years? mainly I wanted to know if I could ground to the boat or does it have to ground to the mast?

 

[peptobysmol]

My 1985 '23 has a ground from the mast to the keel. This, IIRC is for a lightning strike ground. I don't think the battery is grounded to the boat.

 

[SeaTR]

The battery is not grounded to boat ground. The mast-to-keel bolt ground is I believe what you are calling "boat ground". As Petobysmol stated, the mast is grounded for lightning protection to shunt the strike to water through that ground cable (usually pretty heavy guage) as opposed to the strike finding whatever path(s) it wants to in order to get to "earth" (the water).

Once lightning strikes, these "path(s)" can travel anywhere through your boat. I was lucky about 3 years ago with a lightning strike that ONLY vaporized my VHF antenna, blew apart my wind indicator, fried my VHF and bilge pumps, and finally blew out a few fuses and sockets. I never really fully understood the pathS that my strike took, but it could have been worse...blowouts through the hull from the strike travelling down the shrouds to the chainplates and through the hull are not unheard of.

The lightning strike takes the path(s) of least resistance to 'earth' (the water)......so give it one, straight to the keel bolts and the water (where it wants to go anyways), and check your connections ensuring they are tight and in good condition no less than yearly. It's much better that YOU control the strike's path(s), as best you can.

Sorry, I diverged... you need to 'hand over hand' your wiring for breaks (opens) and/or corroded connections (high resistance connections)...all terminations / connections MUST be metal to metal. Also, if it's the original wiring, I suspect that back in 1985, they MAY NOT have used marine grade wire (tinned copper), and used the standard automotive wiring (copper only). Automotive wiring is NOT made for a corrosive environment and after time, will oxidize turning a black / dark brown color, which 1) makes it brittle, and 2)does not conduct electricity nearly as well. Thus susceptible to 1) failures and 2) low light output at your light fixture (low amperage).

Once you've checked / repaired any connections a/o replaced with marine grade wiring, it's a good idea to 'insulate' the terminals / connections with, 1)heat shrink tubing, 2) electrical tape, 3) lightly spray with WD-40, OR 4) enclose the connection in a waterPROOF box and seal off the wire pennetrations with silicone caulking... just a few ideas.

Good luck, electrical stuff is always "FUN".

 

[Chasemixon]

SeaTR:

Wow! You certainly know your stuff! I will defiantly replace all the wire this winter when I bring my boat home... To hard to do it at the dock. But as far as the lights not working... It was the simplest of things... Lightbulbs! All had current to them... Just none burning... Thanks for everyone else who gave me some advise. I am still very new and can't even begin to imagine how difficult this would be without you guys help!

 

[SeaTR]

You just gotta love simple fixes ! If you don't have much experience in electrical work, there's plenty of free information / guidance online and at the library (you know, that hardcopy repository bldg... ;-) ...I think they are still out there somewhere... ). Once mastered, electrical work can be very rewarding.

One more thing, if your lights are original equipment, you may want to consider replacing them with LEDs instead of the old standard incandescent. LED fixtures are more expensive, BUT are very reliable, rugged, and last nearly forever.

Have fun !

 

[SeaTR]

Some Pix of mine...(still a slow work in progress)

 

[Chasemixon]

In picture. 5 of 5, do you know what that deck hardware is for? Starboard side of the mast?

 

[SeaTR]

Yes, those are the 2 turning blocks (aka: deck organizers) for the main and jib halyards. The internal halyards exit the main mast at the foot, go through the turning blocks on the cabin roof, go aft through the rope clutches (one per halyard), then finally to the halyard winch.

My mast has a total of 4 halyard blocks (sheaves) at the foot, 2 port and 2 stbd. I don't use my port halyard blocks, nor do I have a turning block on that side....yet, at least.

 

[Chasemixon]

I must have rigged mine wrong my mast sail exits the port side of the mast.

 

[SeaTR]

RE: "..my mast sail exits the port side of the mast.", I'm not sure what you are saying.
If you want me to take a gander and have a greater understanding of your exact arrangement... post some pix of your mast foot and deck hardware setup.

It's an easy fix if you're de-masted (unrigged). All you need to do is remove the mast foot exit block fixture and refeed your halyards through the stbd blocks to existing deck hardware (organizer, clutches, winch), then reinstall the mast foot exit block. IF you do this, OBTW, it would be a really good thing to lube the exit block sheaves real well with something like a PTFE-based dry lube. PTFE is basically "Teflon" in a can and is available at places like Home Depot at a fraction of the cost of WM or Defender, for example. Just make sure there are NO petroleum distillates as additional ingredients...all they do is gum up the lubricated joint and accumulate dirt, grime, and other undesirables. I use PTFE exclusively for ALL lube jobs topside as well as below decks.

If your mast is already stepped and you are on the water, then you can STILL live with it, providing you you wouldn't mind installing turning blocks (a deck organizer), rope clutches, and a winch on the PORT side as well. (not an easy job, but neither is hauling out and dropping the mast, hopefully, you are not yet fully rigged and on the water).

Also, on one of your public profile pix, you have a shot from aft of the main sail / boom looking forward, and I may be seeing it wrong, but it looks like your main clew out haul configuration could use some changes. Do you have any additional pix of your main clew ?

 

[Chasemixon]

I'll post some pictures next time I'm there so you can see what I mean, I have one line exit on the mast starboard side and one port side. I uses the port side...

 

[SeaTR]

Fire me an e-mail when you DO post your pix. I work strange hours at times and MAY not check back for some time. e.g., time delay on this response to yours above...

 

[SeaTR]

OBTW, some brave souls drop their mast while ON the water. Usually they do this to clear obstacles on a voyage to untravelled passages, or they may, believe it or not, do so ROUTINELY on much more familiar passages. Just something to consider....

 

[Chasemixon]

I was on the lake last week, and saw what you meant by just removing the foot and moving the lines to the other side. I had both my lines coming out the port side of the mast, but it will just take me putting the mast down and moving the lines over to the other side... thanks for the your help!

 

[SeaTR]

You bettcha. Have fun y'all !