Once you get more used to sailing that critter, another skill to try and practice is to heave to. I'm not sure how well the H22 will heave to, but my 23.5 that I had previously, did a reasonable job of heaving to when you needed to. Being able to heave to gives you a chance to collect your thoughts, if it gets too windy, and also makes it easy to reef sails, use the john, etc. Practice in less windy conditions first.
'85 h22 max wind
- Thread starter Chasemixon
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Hear, hear !! An excellent point by sesmith. The heave-to maneuver should be practiced and MASTERED. I've used it MANY times as I, for the most part, sail single-handed, and there is only so much one can do from the cockpit...especially if you need to go to the head. Under heavy seas / wind this maneuver will free you up short of luffing all sails, or starting up the iron spinnaker and pointing into the wind.
Sometimes if the wind is consistent and waves not TOO high, I will set and tie off the tiller between the two jib sheet jam cleats while under sail in order to take care of quick tasks (I don't have an autohelm). I wrap 3 or 4 turns of 3/8" line around the tiller handle and can make adjustments to tiller position by rotating the wraps in place.
There are probably better ways to do that, but I don't have an unlimited budget for my continuing work on this salvage boat of mine.
Sometimes if the wind is consistent and waves not TOO high, I will set and tie off the tiller between the two jib sheet jam cleats while under sail in order to take care of quick tasks (I don't have an autohelm). I wrap 3 or 4 turns of 3/8" line around the tiller handle and can make adjustments to tiller position by rotating the wraps in place.
There are probably better ways to do that, but I don't have an unlimited budget for my continuing work on this salvage boat of mine.
SeaTR we must be related, I have used those same cleats to hold mine straight while I raise/lower sails. 
Just to pile on. Your not scared until you think you're being knocked down! While sailing my 260 in the Back Bay of Biloxi with all the canvas up, was pinching the point a bit one day because we were on the leeward side of the channel (cuz in Mississippi you tack by depth meter) and I didn't want to have to tack an extra time,. and thought I could squeeze by the marker where the channel turned downwind. Made the marker, sailed out a couple hundred feet then fell off the wind. Holding the boat on a very close hold made me misjudge the wind. No sooner than we had gone into a beam reach then a stiff gust came across Keesler's runway and heeled us WAY over. I immediately dumped the main thinking that would bring us more upright, but the gust just kept right on blowing us over. The admiral's glasses went skittering across the cockpit and into the drink. Good thing the two other adults in the boat were on the windward side. So, I turned the boat into irons and rolled in the jib. Lesson learned, when it's gusty, don't keep all your canvas up. Reef early and often. As Crazy Dave pointed out, you go just as fast flat as you do heeled over at 45 degrees (which is no fun in a Hunter 260). Also, practice these situations over and over in your head. I reacted automatically and probably saved a few moments of panic since I corrected the situation before anybody know how much on the edge we were. OBTW...I didn't drop the boom in the water, even with it all the way out. A few years ago, the admiral would have made me walk the plank on the spot, but there's a video out there of some guys trying to get a Hunter 260 knocked down and all it did was round up into the wind. Still....I still looking for that missing seat cushion.
hey guys, think about this one. When heeling too far over which of course is unnecessary in my books, the person sitting on the high side could possibly be thrown into the drink on the opposite side depending on the boat but also hit their heads on the boom and that is a big ouch and if the better half is involved, that is not the only thing going to happen.
Dave Condon
Dave Condon
I have to disagree with Dave. When heeled over (depending on the hull shape) you increase the water line (as in older AC and IOR race boats) this was a way around some of the water line length rules. Those boats were meant to be sailed heeled over. Other boats actually loose wetted surface as they heel (think the newer styled fat arse) boats. Beside other reasons this is why they are fastest when heeled at about 15 degrees.
But I digress... Back to the OPs post
30 degree heel ?!? I usually loose steerage around 25 degrees, and round up. Yeah, its best to not scare the admiral, or she won't come out again. I usually reef around 15K. Around 10K you see some whitecaps, around 15K you see quite a few. Use that a a marker. Reefing makes everything more pleasurable, and usually faster, as the H22 is fastest when sailed flat.
You say you don't know how to reef? Let me dig out some documents and pics for that.
As said previously, you need to control your sail shape, that will go a long way. tighten the foot of the sail with the outhaul. This will depower the sail. if sailing any point but upwind, let out your boom vang. Allow the sail to twist. the top part of the sail may be the smallest but the wind is stronger up there. allowing the sail to twist will spill the wind from where its the strongest. Depending on how old your sail is, get a new one. I am always amazed how much better the boat (any) boat handles with a new sail.
SeaTR - rule number 1 with foresails is NEVER cleat your jib/genoa lines. in an emergency you won't get them undone quick enough. I was surprised that Hunter put a cleat there for that. Add or replace the cleat with a cam cleat for your jib sheets.
But I digress... Back to the OPs post
30 degree heel ?!? I usually loose steerage around 25 degrees, and round up. Yeah, its best to not scare the admiral, or she won't come out again. I usually reef around 15K. Around 10K you see some whitecaps, around 15K you see quite a few. Use that a a marker. Reefing makes everything more pleasurable, and usually faster, as the H22 is fastest when sailed flat.
You say you don't know how to reef? Let me dig out some documents and pics for that.
As said previously, you need to control your sail shape, that will go a long way. tighten the foot of the sail with the outhaul. This will depower the sail. if sailing any point but upwind, let out your boom vang. Allow the sail to twist. the top part of the sail may be the smallest but the wind is stronger up there. allowing the sail to twist will spill the wind from where its the strongest. Depending on how old your sail is, get a new one. I am always amazed how much better the boat (any) boat handles with a new sail.
SeaTR - rule number 1 with foresails is NEVER cleat your jib/genoa lines. in an emergency you won't get them undone quick enough. I was surprised that Hunter put a cleat there for that. Add or replace the cleat with a cam cleat for your jib sheets.
Inarathree,
I agree with your #1 rule ... don't cleat the jib sheets. A while back I installed cam cleats on the teak just aft of my jib sheet winches. I usually lead the jib sheet to the windward side cam cleat, even though it creates extra obstacles in the cockpit, thus making it more convenient to access / adjust. (see the attached pix)
The original Hunter jam cleats are soley used for my poor man's "otto helm" (3/8" line looped on one cleat, 3-4 wraps around the tiller, jammed on the other side's jam cleat). thus, if I don't want to heave-to to get something done while single-handing (which is most of the time), I'll lock in the tiller with the 3/8" line...
I was just noting the original configuration that Chasemixon probably had (has). The pix that I posted earlier in this discussion was an old pix, but I posted it as it was the only one I could get a hold of in the short term for him.
I agree with your #1 rule ... don't cleat the jib sheets. A while back I installed cam cleats on the teak just aft of my jib sheet winches. I usually lead the jib sheet to the windward side cam cleat, even though it creates extra obstacles in the cockpit, thus making it more convenient to access / adjust. (see the attached pix)
The original Hunter jam cleats are soley used for my poor man's "otto helm" (3/8" line looped on one cleat, 3-4 wraps around the tiller, jammed on the other side's jam cleat). thus, if I don't want to heave-to to get something done while single-handing (which is most of the time), I'll lock in the tiller with the 3/8" line...
I was just noting the original configuration that Chasemixon probably had (has). The pix that I posted earlier in this discussion was an old pix, but I posted it as it was the only one I could get a hold of in the short term for him.
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![IMG_6144[1].jpg](/data/attachments/50/50801-c565772a75593ac1d0be04c895eb7381.jpg)
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couple extras...
For my Otto pilot, I attached a couple mini cam cleats about a foot back on the tiller. I then run 1/4" line to the toe rail. They can be cleated and released quickly.
Another trick is i bring the jib sheets back to the cheek block then run the sheets run to the opposite side of the cockpit for when i am single handed sailing. That way I don't have to reach to the low side to adjust the jib sheets, the working sheet is right next to me.
I put new running rigging on Inara. Every line is color coded. Main is black, boom vang is blue, and my jib sheets are red and green, which are lead down the port and starboard sides respectively. That way i always know which sheet to grab. Even the smaller 1/4" lines are colored. It also helps when i am out with a noob, or the kids. I can say grab that fat black line, or pull that skinny green line, and they get it.
For my Otto pilot, I attached a couple mini cam cleats about a foot back on the tiller. I then run 1/4" line to the toe rail. They can be cleated and released quickly.
Another trick is i bring the jib sheets back to the cheek block then run the sheets run to the opposite side of the cockpit for when i am single handed sailing. That way I don't have to reach to the low side to adjust the jib sheets, the working sheet is right next to me.
I put new running rigging on Inara. Every line is color coded. Main is black, boom vang is blue, and my jib sheets are red and green, which are lead down the port and starboard sides respectively. That way i always know which sheet to grab. Even the smaller 1/4" lines are colored. It also helps when i am out with a noob, or the kids. I can say grab that fat black line, or pull that skinny green line, and they get it.
Attachments
I for sure need to pick up a few of those cam cleats. Thanks, and yes I have the factory hardware, but I am ready to start modifying!
Chasemixon,
I installed:
Harken 150 Ball Bearing Cam Cleat
www.Defender.com Item # : 604799 ($31.99)
Max line 1/2" Min line 1/8"
SWL: 300 lbs
Model Number: 150
..what you choose depends upon your budget, size of line, materials/color, and expected loading.
I installed:
Harken 150 Ball Bearing Cam Cleat
www.Defender.com Item # : 604799 ($31.99)
Max line 1/2" Min line 1/8"
SWL: 300 lbs
Model Number: 150
..what you choose depends upon your budget, size of line, materials/color, and expected loading.
Inarathree;
we can agree to disagree but I still will state that excessive healing is not needed for a comfortable and safe ride. In fact, I have sailed against some of the best in the industry and won based on experience. I started sailing at the age of 5 and now I am 63 and yes I did sail the 22 as well. That is all I am going to say on this thread but if you want to heel over, that is your decision and again we can agree to disagree.
crazy dave condon
we can agree to disagree but I still will state that excessive healing is not needed for a comfortable and safe ride. In fact, I have sailed against some of the best in the industry and won based on experience. I started sailing at the age of 5 and now I am 63 and yes I did sail the 22 as well. That is all I am going to say on this thread but if you want to heel over, that is your decision and again we can agree to disagree.
crazy dave condon
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