- Aug 10, 2020
Has anyone replaced bulkheads in a 8.0? Anything in particular I need to know before I dive in?
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thank you.Here's a few general tips I learned while replacing mine
- Stain charts at stores are not always accurate. Mine turned out way darker than expected
- A sawzall worked great to cut the tabbing. I like using a long blade because they bend thus allowing for better access. A grinder with a flap disc was then used to get rid of the rest of the tabbing on the hull
- If the plywood is slightly too thick use a grinder or possibly a sander to make it narrower if it's not a large area
- I used a miter saw to cut the plywood. Wasn't terribly accurate but the edges were hidden by fiberglass. The original bulkhead was used as a template
- My chainplates were sealed with 4200 or 5200. I unbolted them from the old bulkhead but left them supported by the sealant. This way I didn't have to figure out the exact position when installing the new one
- If there's any edging or trim pieces verify they'll work with the new plywood. Mine was a tad thicker than the original
- Take more pics than you think you'll ever need
- Other members have told me that the boat should not be left without a bulkhead for extended periods of time because the bulkhead helps the hull and deck keep its shape. I left mine out for 2-3 weeks without issue. Boat was on a cradle with flat "bunks"
- Make note of the tabbing dimensions so you know how wide the new fibergass tape should be
- Working with smaller pieces of glass may be easier than longer ones
- I believe we soaked the first layer of glass and stuck it to the bulkhead/hull. After that we put the next layer on top and used a paint brush to saturate it. This may not work well with thick mat
I have done stringers, transoms and floors in powerboats before. This will be my first bulkhead replacement. It seems pretty straight forward, just a lot of interior to remove first. I drooled over this old boat for years and the owner was gracious enough to give it to me. I'm towing it to my dock over the holidays to assess to old omc saildrive. If it's not viable I have a 9.9 yamaha and drop bracket sitting in my garage for it.You're welcome. I prefer using a fine tooth blade with the sawzall as it's less likely to bite into the material unexpectedly. Cutting the tabbing took less than 5 minutes. Don't forget to leave a gap between the plywood and hull. Supposedly this prevents the plywood from rubbing through the hull
i worked as a glass tech for a few years in my late 20s and ran a mobile gelcoat repair service for a bit, that later turned into an autobody shop.... Not my dream, but that's where life took me.It sounds like you have more fiberglass experience than me. It's a lot of time but not a difficult project. If you have any questions about the saildrive feel free to PM me. I have one. They haul ass with the three blade prop