79 h27 scupper and propane locker drain hose question

[CMF Hunter 27]

When I purchased boat I re-connected the a scupper drain hose but with the warm weather I am exploring the new to me boat. I noticed scupper drain hoses are dripping and leaking from the deck cockpit hose boot and wanted to replace. I read a few threads and it sounded like hoses should be crossed but mine aren't. I was going to re-cross and ensure use of 2 ss clamps on each connection My real question pertains to the drain hose coming from the propane storage locker. The black rubber hose is definitely compromised and is tee'd into a brass fitting to the starboard scupper drain hose. 1st is this setup correct? The T lies well below the outlet. Can I use all the same type of hose i plan replace with WM series 148 multipurpose vinyl hose (1 ¹/⁴ I'd) or does one from propane bin need special hose? @6.49 a foot I am open to other options as well. I was going to remove the boots and replace hoses directly to the with two clamps on each connection. Should hose be looped or have a curve in it or should the crossed hoses go straight as possible to the exhaust outlet? Should the brass t be replaced with nylon T or Y fitting?
Thank you.

 

[justsomeguy]

My real question pertains to the drain hose coming from the propane storage locker. The black rubber hose is definitely compromised and is tee'd into a brass fitting to the starboard scupper drain hose. 1st is this setup correct? The T lies well below the outlet.

This is problematic. There should be no dips of the propane drain hose below the outlet. It must have some "fall" all the way.
Hope others chime in with your scupper issue.

 

[heritage]

Concerning the T- fitting on the cockpit scupper hose, here is a cut and paste from a discussion about the propane safety drain hose install. The Standards - ABYC® Standard A-1 "Marine Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) Systems" . All of the recommendations made below are based on ABYC® standards which I whole heartedly endorse but paraphrase in the interest of brevity. NFPA also has a recognized standard but since they are in tune with ABYC®, we'll stay with ABYC®. ​

A. The Good 1. Locker Drain - Propane is heavier than air so the drain hose must lead from the bottom of the locker to outside of the hull above the static waterline and have a minimum inside diameter of not not less than 1/2" (this means you must use a 3/4" throughull and hose). This drain, like the locker itself must be dedicated. It cannot be T'd into a scupper hose like many CS boats. 2. Propane Tank - must be approved type with an OPD valve. No problem as you cannot buy or get any non-approved tanks filled anyway. 3. Controls - In order from the tank - first the pressure gauge, then regulator, then the solenoid shut-off. All such equipment must be inside the locker. Pressure gauges are often omitted by the DIY'r to save $12 but are a critical leak detection safety feature. 4. The Locker must be above the waterline, top loading with a tight fitting gasketed lid that opens to the atmosphere, be vapor tight to the interior of the vessel (all apertures to be sealed) and must be used for no other purpose. ie. don't keep your anchor in there. On the subject of cockpit hoses, on my 84 H27 the hoses are crisscrossed.​

 

[CMF Hunter 27]

Concerning the T- fitting on the cockpit scupper hose, here is a cut and paste from a discussion about the propane safety drain hose install. The Standards - ABYC® Standard A-1 "Marine Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) Systems" . All of the recommendations made below are based on ABYC® standards which I whole heartedly endorse but paraphrase in the interest of brevity. NFPA also has a recognized standard but since they are in tune with ABYC®, we'll stay with ABYC®. ​

A. The Good 1. Locker Drain - Propane is heavier than air so the drain hose must lead from the bottom of the locker to outside of the hull above the static waterline and have a minimum inside diameter of not not less than 1/2" (this means you must use a 3/4" throughull and hose). This drain, like the locker itself must be dedicated. It cannot be T'd into a scupper hose like many CS boats. 2. Propane Tank - must be approved type with an OPD valve. No problem as you cannot buy or get any non-approved tanks filled anyway. 3. Controls - In order from the tank - first the pressure gauge, then regulator, then the solenoid shut-off. All such equipment must be inside the locker. Pressure gauges are often omitted by the DIY'r to save $12 but are a critical leak detection safety feature. 4. The Locker must be above the waterline, top loading with a tight fitting gasketed lid that opens to the atmosphere, be vapor tight to the interior of the vessel (all apertures to be sealed) and must be used for no other purpose. ie. don't keep your anchor in there. On the subject of cockpit hoses, on my 84 H27 the hoses are crisscrossed.​

 

[David in Sandusky]

Our cockpit drain hoses run straight to through hullet just above the waterline on the opposite side. Replacing them is a great move.

We store the propane bottles for our outside grill in the well behind our cockpit. The drain for this well T’s into one of the cockpit drains. This does not conform to the requirement for a dedicated drain, but these bottles are self sealing, and are not hooked up to anything when stored.

In your case I would recommend a dedicated drain as described in heritage‘s post. This will eliminate the T into your cockpit drain.

By the way, the bottom of the cockpit is very close to the waterline of the hull. At hull speed 6.2 knots, the hull wave builds up behind the stern. On our boat this results in a little water coming back through the drains into the cockpit. It makes us happy because it means we are really moving!

 

[CMF Hunter 27]

Thank you all. I will crisscross and have a dedicated drain.