I'm replacing the pressure post with pressure treated pine that you get at Home Depot. Will it work or is it to soft? Also replacing the I-beam under it with SS.
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D
David Foster
M
Marina
Crenate.....Shrink
Too soft and Pressure treated with crenate (shrink) with time as it slowly dries out. Try some 10 year old air dried red or white oak you get at a lumber mill. I live in South East Ohio. We have lumber mills all over these Appalachian red neck hills. Do you have any lumber mills? If not, I suppose lowes will have your wood. But it will cost a lot more there. Marina
Too soft and Pressure treated with crenate (shrink) with time as it slowly dries out. Try some 10 year old air dried red or white oak you get at a lumber mill. I live in South East Ohio. We have lumber mills all over these Appalachian red neck hills. Do you have any lumber mills? If not, I suppose lowes will have your wood. But it will cost a lot more there. Marina
Probably pressure treated fir.
Steve: It is probably pressure treated fir (not pine). If you are going to spend the money on hardwood, you may as well just use a stainless steel tube. It will be there when the boat is gone. You just need to get someone to weld plates on each end. Then you can box it in with Teak to make it look like the original. That is what they did on my H'31.
Steve: It is probably pressure treated fir (not pine). If you are going to spend the money on hardwood, you may as well just use a stainless steel tube. It will be there when the boat is gone. You just need to get someone to weld plates on each end. Then you can box it in with Teak to make it look like the original. That is what they did on my H'31.
Pressure-treated wood is the very devil.
In all frankness, pressure-treated yellow pine is exactly the LAST wood I would ever want for anything on my boat, and for the job of compression post it is not even in the same universe. Some general caveats coming from years in both boatbuilding and house-construction business: 1. Pressure-treated lumber is carcinogenic and poisonous. Why else does it kill bacteria? It will poison vegetable gardens through the soil at ten feet. Now ask why there is no MSDS on it available for contractors and consumers-- and you'll know what lobbies have pull with OSHA. I know of dogs who have died from leukemia from licking the sweet-tasting secretions from this stuff. If I see a child eating chips off one of our many public-works picnic tables made of this stuff I get the screaming meemies. 2. Pressure-treated wood is always marketed in the green. There is a dye in the treating solution to color it green so you can't tell. It is only fiscally sensible for the lumber people to move the wood fast, so they hope you don't consider how dimensionally unstable it is. I always say that pressure-treated wood introduces you to the 4th dimension: time. Come back in two weeks and the whole thing will have shrunk half an inch. 3. Pressure-treated yellow pine is redundant for rot resistance. Plain yellow pine is already one of the most rot-resistant woods out there. Untreated it will probably last 25 years on top of the soil. We still have about 10 years to go before finding out if the 40-year guarantees made by the lumber instrustry about pressure-treated wood in ground contact will come true. I made a planter box out of untreated yellow pine from a leftover warehouse pallet and it lasted 10 years on the front lawn without any sign of rot at all. And if it had rotted, it'd only have been GOOD for the soil and the flowers in it. In answer to your query, Steve, yellow pine in general is NEVER safe for a dimensionally-critical application. (It's against code for stick-framing a house, for example.) All those old planked Maine lobster boats and Barnegat Bay garveys move so much the guys can't even caulk them-- they just keep the bilge pump plugged in and let it swell till it seals up itself. So go to a REAL wood mill (NOT HoDePo, but a place that is worth making friends of) and get a couple of pieces of plain white spruce, laminate them together using WEST epoxy and call that your compression post-- like I did. It's what was always used in the days before fibreglass, and it even looks good under a coat of Captain's Varnish!! JC 2
In all frankness, pressure-treated yellow pine is exactly the LAST wood I would ever want for anything on my boat, and for the job of compression post it is not even in the same universe. Some general caveats coming from years in both boatbuilding and house-construction business: 1. Pressure-treated lumber is carcinogenic and poisonous. Why else does it kill bacteria? It will poison vegetable gardens through the soil at ten feet. Now ask why there is no MSDS on it available for contractors and consumers-- and you'll know what lobbies have pull with OSHA. I know of dogs who have died from leukemia from licking the sweet-tasting secretions from this stuff. If I see a child eating chips off one of our many public-works picnic tables made of this stuff I get the screaming meemies. 2. Pressure-treated wood is always marketed in the green. There is a dye in the treating solution to color it green so you can't tell. It is only fiscally sensible for the lumber people to move the wood fast, so they hope you don't consider how dimensionally unstable it is. I always say that pressure-treated wood introduces you to the 4th dimension: time. Come back in two weeks and the whole thing will have shrunk half an inch. 3. Pressure-treated yellow pine is redundant for rot resistance. Plain yellow pine is already one of the most rot-resistant woods out there. Untreated it will probably last 25 years on top of the soil. We still have about 10 years to go before finding out if the 40-year guarantees made by the lumber instrustry about pressure-treated wood in ground contact will come true. I made a planter box out of untreated yellow pine from a leftover warehouse pallet and it lasted 10 years on the front lawn without any sign of rot at all. And if it had rotted, it'd only have been GOOD for the soil and the flowers in it. In answer to your query, Steve, yellow pine in general is NEVER safe for a dimensionally-critical application. (It's against code for stick-framing a house, for example.) All those old planked Maine lobster boats and Barnegat Bay garveys move so much the guys can't even caulk them-- they just keep the bilge pump plugged in and let it swell till it seals up itself. So go to a REAL wood mill (NOT HoDePo, but a place that is worth making friends of) and get a couple of pieces of plain white spruce, laminate them together using WEST epoxy and call that your compression post-- like I did. It's what was always used in the days before fibreglass, and it even looks good under a coat of Captain's Varnish!! JC 2
E
Ed Allen
dont glass to any pressure treated wood.
never glass to pressure treated wook either. resins just wont stick very well to the chemicaly treated woods.
never glass to pressure treated wook either. resins just wont stick very well to the chemicaly treated woods.
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