4JH4E Yanmar
- Thread starter NYSail
- Start date
It is not self bleeding. Start at the tank ( or first fuel system part you removed) and work your way to the injectors.
Sorry, I don't understand your topic. I own a Catalina with a 4JH3E. Would be happy to help if I knew what you were asking.
It would seem to me, with the limited information provided, that he wants an opinion of the 4JH4E. And as we have learned from the later post, it is not self-bleeding.
How much the 4JH4E differs from our 4JH2-TE, not sure. They both have four cylinders and made by Yanmar. Our 1991 model has 1900 hours on it. An amazing piece of the most reliable marine machinery I have ever experienced, which, albeit, is limited to this engine and the 2GM on our previous boat. So in this regard you can take that with a grain of salt.
If your question is about how to bleed, here is from the Yanmar manuel:
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/jh4.html#/56
1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Refill if necessary.
2. Open the fuel cock of the fuel tank.
3. Loosen the air bleed screw (Figure 5, (2)) 2 - 3 turns.
4. Push up and down on the priming pump (Figure 5, (1)) to release air out of the air bleed screw. Continue pumping until a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles begins to flow
5. Continue pumping until a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles begins to flow.
6. Tighten the air bleed screw. * air bleed screw is on the top of the injector pump.
Go to page 41 of the manuel on the webpage I just gave you for diagrams and LOTS of details.
Some Yanmars have self bleeding, I believe that the 4JH4E does. You do have to bleed after introducing air (for example when changing filters). Some of the times I have changed filters, I did not need to bleed. Last time I did. Probably because I took the Raycore filter apart to clean it thoroughly.
I agree with Terry. My 4JH3E (very similar engine) is a remarkable engine.
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/jh4.html#/56
1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Refill if necessary.
2. Open the fuel cock of the fuel tank.
3. Loosen the air bleed screw (Figure 5, (2)) 2 - 3 turns.
4. Push up and down on the priming pump (Figure 5, (1)) to release air out of the air bleed screw. Continue pumping until a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles begins to flow
5. Continue pumping until a solid stream of fuel with no air bubbles begins to flow.
6. Tighten the air bleed screw. * air bleed screw is on the top of the injector pump.
Go to page 41 of the manuel on the webpage I just gave you for diagrams and LOTS of details.
Some Yanmars have self bleeding, I believe that the 4JH4E does. You do have to bleed after introducing air (for example when changing filters). Some of the times I have changed filters, I did not need to bleed. Last time I did. Probably because I took the Raycore filter apart to clean it thoroughly.
I agree with Terry. My 4JH3E (very similar engine) is a remarkable engine.
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I have a 4JH-3E. Mechanic told me it IS self-bleeding and I believe it is, because ... When I change the filters, I pre-fill the filter with fuel, almost but not full. Then I pump the priming pump about 20 times. Start the engine. It runs. If it stops, I crank it over for 5-30 seconds and it starts again. No problems.
I know how to bleed an engine... maybe my terminology was wrong but aren't newer engines not susceptible to cutting off because of air in the system. Not after changing filters etc...... insidental air that will turn an engine off like I sometimes get with my 3hm35f.
Thanks
Thanks
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2007 Hunter 31 with a Yanmar 3YM20. I am going to add fuel filter changes this year to my winterizing program. Previous years I had the yard do the primary (Racor R12P) and secondary fuel filters. I do have the engine manual. It looks to me that the engine is self priming. Do I still need to use the bleed screw on top of the secondary (engine mounted) filter? I don't want to crack open any more parts in the fuel system if I do not need.
When I change filters..... I fill the secondary with as much as possible and then screw together, then open bleed screw on top. I then slowly fill primary (racor 500) which is mounted slightly above and eventually will see fuel coming out of bleed screw. Tighten and all is good.
Never had a problem bleeding my 4JH4E. Shut off the fuel supply from the tank. Empty the Raycor drain. Unscrew and replace the filter filling the new filter about 3/4 with clean fuel and screw on. Replace the engine mounted filter in a similar way also filling new filter with fuel before screwing on. Open fuel supply at the tank. I cycle the engine mounted manual fuel pump about 100 times bleed the air from the bleed screw on the fuel injector manifold and good to go. Engine starts right away though may be bit rough for a few seconds as any remaining air is purged through the system.