I have read the past posts on the props. I have a 1990 42 passage and would like to move form the 2 blade to a 3 blade. Does anybody know the best one to install and the correct info to order one. I have not hauled my boat yet and was going to order one and have it ready. Also thinking of going to a dripless stuffing box. Any thoughts on that? Matt
42 passage prop and stuffing box
- Thread starter Georgiasailer
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Its all about money and speed! The cheapest route is to stay with a fixed three blade however you sacrifice speed. You can find quality uses ones on places like craigslist, etc.
There will be so many opinions as to what is the best folding prop here. That again boils down typically to money. You can spend upwards of three thousand bucks for a high end folder. They come in geared, centrifigal, for example. But the boat is faster.
Any good prop shop can size you up for a three blade prop. They will have the spec or most likely you can find it here in the boat info section.
As far as dripless, thats a matter of taste and convenience. Most here that have dripless will swear by them. They have a good rep and require little maintenance. They dont give any warning however when they fail. I personally still have the old stock bronze stuffing box. It makes me get down there to keep an eye on it and the other things that are close like hose clamps, etc. It really requires little maintenance also, its easy to adjust, and changing flax is a "simple" in the water process. They do drip so thats water in the bildge. DIY.
Hope that helps
Cheers
There will be so many opinions as to what is the best folding prop here. That again boils down typically to money. You can spend upwards of three thousand bucks for a high end folder. They come in geared, centrifigal, for example. But the boat is faster.
Any good prop shop can size you up for a three blade prop. They will have the spec or most likely you can find it here in the boat info section.
As far as dripless, thats a matter of taste and convenience. Most here that have dripless will swear by them. They have a good rep and require little maintenance. They dont give any warning however when they fail. I personally still have the old stock bronze stuffing box. It makes me get down there to keep an eye on it and the other things that are close like hose clamps, etc. It really requires little maintenance also, its easy to adjust, and changing flax is a "simple" in the water process. They do drip so thats water in the bildge. DIY.
Hope that helps
Cheers
dripless is great, as on the 42 P you would likely have to remove most of the battery banks and chargers, then contort to even get a hand on the box, let alone adjust it.
How Hunter can say they designed this boat is beyond me...as ANY maintenance is a real chore. Cockpit scupper throughulls can barely be touched, let alone worked, engine and genny throughhulls about the same. vented loops for the aft head - have to remove the batteries and inverter to get to them as well.
And to pull in a satellite or network cable from the shorepower area to the salon...I dread doing it, but need to...
We love her comfort, in spite of the chores.
dave
How Hunter can say they designed this boat is beyond me...as ANY maintenance is a real chore. Cockpit scupper throughulls can barely be touched, let alone worked, engine and genny throughhulls about the same. vented loops for the aft head - have to remove the batteries and inverter to get to them as well.
And to pull in a satellite or network cable from the shorepower area to the salon...I dread doing it, but need to...
We love her comfort, in spite of the chores.
dave
I just purchased a three-blade propeller to replace my original two-blade on my 1990 P42. I haven't yet installed it, so I have no first-hand experience to offer. However, after much research I decided to go with a fixed-blade Campbell Sailer Propeller, made by westbynorth.com. I recommend their website to you. Norm, the manufacturer, is very accessible and happy to talk to you about the propellers. Many others who have that model propeller on their boats highly recommend it for diminished drag (over other fixed-three-blade propellers), and improved balance and power. My personal decision to go with a fixed blade was based totally upon my particular use for cruising. I have seen too many cruisers experience problems with maintenance/repair issues on folding/feathering propellers in the middle of nowhere, and I don't want to introduce yet another set of moving parts on my boat. Especially on something so vital to safety as a propeller. My conclusion might have been different if I was using my boat for coastal cruising here in the States.
I use the teflon kits in with my flax on my stuffing box. It is pretty much dripless. I haven't changed the flax since 2004, and it still is "dripless." I qualify "dripless" because I do have to tighten the stuffing box gland nut once in a while to keep it that way. However, it runs with a completely cool stuffing box gland while dripping no water.
Although it requires some squeezing, I don't find it too oppressive to tighten the stuffing box gland nut. It takes me about 5 to 10 minutes to do it. I lay over the engine and use a very large crescent wrench to do it. (The funky little "stuffing box wrenches" break too easily). I find I can loosen the tightening nut pretty easily, then move the gland nut, then retighten the tightening nut with only one wrench (with the transmission locked into reverse). If the nut were really stuck, I'd probably want to secure the shaft at the coupling and put the tranny in neutral so as not to strain the gearbox, but I haven't encountered that yet. (When I haul I generally clean the threads and shaft area with muriatic acid to keep the nuts moving easily).
I have found the teflon kits to work well, and it fits with my desire to have less moving parts rather than more.
I use the teflon kits in with my flax on my stuffing box. It is pretty much dripless. I haven't changed the flax since 2004, and it still is "dripless." I qualify "dripless" because I do have to tighten the stuffing box gland nut once in a while to keep it that way. However, it runs with a completely cool stuffing box gland while dripping no water.
Although it requires some squeezing, I don't find it too oppressive to tighten the stuffing box gland nut. It takes me about 5 to 10 minutes to do it. I lay over the engine and use a very large crescent wrench to do it. (The funky little "stuffing box wrenches" break too easily). I find I can loosen the tightening nut pretty easily, then move the gland nut, then retighten the tightening nut with only one wrench (with the transmission locked into reverse). If the nut were really stuck, I'd probably want to secure the shaft at the coupling and put the tranny in neutral so as not to strain the gearbox, but I haven't encountered that yet. (When I haul I generally clean the threads and shaft area with muriatic acid to keep the nuts moving easily).
I have found the teflon kits to work well, and it fits with my desire to have less moving parts rather than more.
Thanks guys. I am not worrying about losing any sail preformance. I am a cruiser! In Georgia where I keep the boat we have a normal 8 knot current at the dock. I am looking for the most efficient 3 blade fixed prop that will move the boat and let me handle the docking.
Norm at westbynorth says 18x11. Hunter said a 3 bladed prop was an option and it was a 18x14. To me that is a big difference. I can find no body that will agree on what prop to use. Does anybody have any actual experience with a specific prop on their Passage.
You can't compare the stock Michigan Wheel 3 blade prop that comes stock on the Hunter with a Campbell Sailor, if that is what Norm is quoting you. The CS prop is a LOT more efficient and thus requires less pitch than the old technology Michigan "MP" / mixing prop - ( the Michigan MP was actually invented for bakeries)....
I went from a 16X12 Michigan to a 16X9 Campbell Sailor and was able to maintain the same wide open throttle RPM. With a 16X10 CS I was under by 250+ RPM from where I needed to be.
Figuring out WOT (wide open throttle)
Thanks for any illumination on figuring this out. I haven't been able to find anything in the service manual or online on this.
Regards,
Paul.
Like Matt, I've got a P42 with a Yanmar 62 HP 4JH2-TE that says it's rated for max throttle at 3400 RPM continuous and 3600 RPM for 1/2 hour. I haven't yet put on my CSP (an 18 x 11), and I'm wondering how I tell what WOT should be once I have it on. I can get to 3400 RPM w/the (current and original) 2 bladed prop, but no higher. Is 3600 supposed to be "WOT"?
Thanks for any illumination on figuring this out. I haven't been able to find anything in the service manual or online on this.
Regards,
Paul.
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Matt:
I have an OEM 3 blade prop from my 44DS. Still in the box. Never used. I would be willing to sell it tou you at a favorable price for you. I believe it is an 18x14 3 blade.
Paul,
If the manual, or in the case of your Yanmar there is a plate on the engine, states that WOT is 3,600 RPM then what is the question.
That engine was meant to run at 3,600 top end for short periods of time and at 80% of 3,600 which is 2,880 day in and day out. There are several things that enter the problem at this point. 1. Is the tach reading correctly (check it with and optical tach) 2. If it is then, in gear under way the engine should reach 3,600. If it doesn't the pitch or the prop or size of the prop is not correct. To much pitch or to big of prop will not allow the engine to get up to speed. The prop in essence can act as a brake. Nothing beats an adjustable prop because the pitch can be changed on most while the boat is in the water. All of the pre calculations for the most part will only get you close. Which may be just fine. The final pitch is usually set after the boat is in the water and it is tested. Once the engine can reach 3,600 at full throttle you are there, then run the engine at 2,800 and all will be well. Your engine will be happy your fuel burn will be where it is suppose to be and the engine will live a long life.:dance:
Hope this helps. Any prop information (size, pitch) can be obtained from
http://boatdiesel.com/
The real experts are there. If you really want to know about your engine and what is the correct thing to do this is the place. There are real experts on there for every brand of engine.
Good luck
Thanks, Vinny
Thanks very much, Vinny. The question was just due to ignorance on my part. I didn't know that the manufacturer's maximum RPM = WOT. Now I do!
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