40 year old mast

bobbyfingers2001

bobbyfingers2001

.
Oct 27, 2012
35
Hunter / Pearson H19 & 1987 Pearson 31-2 Tarpon Springs
Mast

It is not necessary to replace a mast (aluminum or otherwise) just because it is aged. You can do a visual inspection of any attachment points, for example: Sheave boxes, rivets, winches, spreaders, standing rigging attachment points, or any other fittings or areas of stress. You are going to be looking for any signs of pitting or corrosion, loose rivets, stress cracking, or deformation of any of these areas. You may have to clean these areas to remove any paint or dirt that could mask the damage (if any). Even if you do find some areas of concern, you most likely won't need to replace the mast, that is unless you are like many boaters I've come across... More Money - Than Brains... Then by all means, buy a new mast, the industry could use the money.




bffatcat said:
My aluminum mast is now 40 years old I have never painted or waxed it. It sort of a deep gun metal color I inspect it every season It looks ok no signs of corrosion I did replace all the standing and running rigging within the last 5 years. My philosiphy has always been, If it ain`t broke don`t fix it. How long can I expect it to last? Is it time for a new mast or do I wait for the inevitable something to happen Opinions would be welcome.
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F

fa102

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Apr 21, 2013
25
S2 8.0C (keel center board w/ MD7A diesel) long island
bffatcat said:
My aluminum mast is now 40 years old I have never painted or waxed it. It sort of a deep gun metal color I inspect it every season It looks ok no signs of corrosion I did replace all the standing and running rigging within the last 5 years. My philosiphy has always been, If it ain`t broke don`t fix it. How long can I expect it to last? Is it time for a new mast or do I wait for the inevitable something to happen Opinions would be welcome.
Click to expand
In addition to the other good advice suggest the following:
*Inspect the boom & all of its hardware (same as for the mast) and the goose-neck attachment at the mast*

1-- inspect the mast base (especiially if it is keel stepped) for corrosion.
2-- remove all hardware (particularly items secured via ss. screws / bolts etc.); look for corrosion at contact point of dissimilar metals; clean areas prior to install hardware items.
3-- add a non-metalic insulating barrier to non aluminum hardware items where they contact the aluminum mast (I use thick vinyl pin striping tape between ss. blocks, eye straps etc. that are mounted on the mast & boom.
4-- remove the mast head fitting (even if it is aluminum) check for corrosion / wear / cracking / distortion on the fitting & the mast; apply water resistant coating before reassembling.
5-- remove spreader arms; inspect each end for wear & corrosion; if tubular type inspect inside of the spreader arm socket; apply water resistant coating before reassembling.
6-- remove (on mast) spreader arm mounts / attachments; inspect for wear.
7-- replace all ss. screw / machine screw fasteners.
8-- apply wrapping of teflon tape on ss. screws / bolts to insulate them from the aluminum. 9-- inspect all clevis pins; replace all cotter pins. Make sure that each clevis is long enough so that its cotter pin is not subject to side loads from shackle / fitting / etc.
10-- inspect all mast mounted shivs.
11- inspect all in mast wiring; if original would be a good idea to replace all with marine grade wires. (add support to each wire run so their connection (to mast light / antenna etc) is not bearing the weight of the wire run.
12-- insure that running rigging has a fair lead to & from each of its shivs / blocks (relocate
as needed).
13-- inspect all standing rigging; replace as needed or years of service.

I have performed all of the above tasks on my own boat, 1978 S2 8.0C
 
caguy

caguy

.
Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
Terry5648 said:
In 2010, I had a big pine tree fall on my docked MacGregor 26S. Landed on the backstay, and bent the mast 90 degrees. Ordered a new one from Dwyer Mast for $761 (see details below). They were great to deal with. Why spend 600-700 on an inspection when you can order a new one for not much more?

DM-6 Mast Extrusion - Tube Length 28 ft. 2 in. based on stock length of 28'6" @
$26.35/ft. with Sailfeed @ $10.00 at 2 ft. 6 in.
Item Total - $760.98
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What did they charge for shipping?
 
S

sail101e

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Aug 17, 2014
38
AMF SunFish & Puffer AL
I have found minor corrosion near the bottom of my mast. It is just starting, what do I need to do to make sure it doesn't spread?

Maybe 2 feet from the bottom there is another area and there is a tiny hole from corrosion. On another boat with the same thing, I used JB weld epoxy and this appeared to work. Is this the best way to do it? Thanks.-
 
talbotb

talbotb

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May 5, 2014
44
Oday Daysailer II Eugene, OR
I had to replace a broken boom with a badly corroded junked spar from a boatyard. I wirebrushed all visible oxidation from the aluminum, sanded the whole extrustion, applied metal primer, and painted with epoxy paint. I used Interlux epoxy bottom paint, which yellows in the sun, but is harder than topside polyurethane. (Topside paint would be the usual recommendation.) One end was so badly corroded that prior to painting, I butted the tubing. I sawed off a short section of the broken boom and split it down the middle, making it somewhat flexible. Then I lathered it with epoxy and drove it inside the corroded end of the replacement spar. The plug compressed enough to slip in, but was springy enough to hold tight. So the aluminum at the corroded (tack) end of the boom is almost double thickness. This was years ago, and although I later found a used boom designed for my boat, I have never bothered rigging it. The old Frankenboom still works.
 
jibes138

jibes138

.
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Ideally you should sand or grind off the corrosion until you have good aluminum and then use Alodine to provide a protective chromate conversion coating to retard further corrosion. Anodizing aluminum is preferred but requires special equipment and large tanks and chemicals. Alodine is pretty much brush on and then rinse off. You can buy small quantities used for touching up aluminum that is anodized that is scratched or nicked. If there is a machine shop or a plating place near you maybe they will give you (sell you) a little so you don't have to buy a whole quart? You can paint on top of the alodine if you want further protection.
 
T

tommays

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Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
My NAKED 1970 Cal 29 mast which is insanely oversize in every way is pretty much same as new BECAUSE ALL the MANY hardware parts were mounted on welded on pads which stopped any issues with corrosion in the thin sections of the extrusion



My J24 masts which had SS hardware riveted directly onto PAINT took much more care and did not hold up nearly as well because light weight was the design goal
 
S

sail101e

.
Aug 17, 2014
38
AMF SunFish & Puffer AL
jibes138 said:
Ideally you should sand or grind off the corrosion until you have good aluminum and then use Alodine to provide a protective chromate conversion coating to retard further corrosion. Anodizing aluminum is preferred but requires special equipment and large tanks and chemicals. Alodine is pretty much brush on and then rinse off. You can buy small quantities used for touching up aluminum that is anodized that is scratched or nicked. If there is a machine shop or a plating place near you maybe they will give you (sell you) a little so you don't have to buy a whole quart? You can paint on top of the alodine if you want further protection.
Click to expand
Thank you..
 
The Garbone

The Garbone

.
Nov 7, 2012
678
1978 Catalina 30 Wilbur-by-the-Sea
jibes138 said:
Ideally you should sand or grind off the corrosion until you have good aluminum and then use Alodine to provide a protective chromate conversion coating to retard further corrosion. Anodizing aluminum is preferred but requires special equipment and large tanks and chemicals. Alodine is pretty much brush on and then rinse off. You can buy small quantities used for touching up aluminum that is anodized that is scratched or nicked. If there is a machine shop or a plating place near you maybe they will give you (sell you) a little so you don't have to buy a whole quart? You can paint on top of the alodine if you want further protection.
Click to expand
Yes, thank you for this.

Just ordered a quart of Alodine on Amazon for $32. Exactly what I was looking for.
 
brianhess

brianhess

.
Nov 17, 2013
5
Camper-Nicholson Nicholson 33 Port Orchard, WA
Simple Green

I did not know that about Simple Green! What a great tip! My mast was anodized black when it was manufactured in 1976. It is still in excellent condition, no signs of corrosion, but when I do my standing rigging, I am pulling the mast and reconditioning the surface. I am researching the anodizing process.

I think that if you are are lovingly taking care of your boat and being mindful of your zinc plates and other general maintenance, you will find that your aluminum mast will be around long after you have sold the boat. These things were built to be over-engineered to ensure they would not fail. I read more about BRAND NEW vessels losing their keels and masts more frequently than the old boats--and there are MANY older boats that sail the seven seas--many more of them than the 100,000 USD price ranged boats that have catastrophic failures. I put my money on the older IOR hulls for durability and proven seaworthiness against the brand new rich-man's boat any day!

Brian
SV Triton
Camper & Nicholson 33
 
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