This has been driving me crazy. I always have 2-3" of water in the aft transom storage. Can't seem to locate the source. Anyone with similar problems, having solved them?
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leak source
Greetings Arthur! I also have a 40.5. If you have already satisfied yourself that the source of your leak is not the seals of your aftermost lockers, I would suggest that as a first step, you get a bottle of "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" at W. Marine or your local chandlery and try dripping very small amounts onto your backstay chainplates, electrical inlet, stern rail mountings etc.; any penetration of the area above your aft transom locker. In one of those spots the "cure" will almost certainly weep into an otherwise invisible leak and by capilary action, fill and stop it. My aftermost starboard toe rail bolt had a similar leak that was cured in this way. You must find and investigate any thru bolt or penetration of the transom that is above that locker. It is possible to climb into that locker, tho' somewhat of a claustrophobe's nightmare. I have done it to install a center cleat. Once inside, with the aid of a bright light, you may well be able to see the stain trail of the leak or some mildew coming down from above. It could also be coming in around your aft rubber bumper. Your only other alternative is to systematically remove and re-bed all of those fittings with 3M 4200 or Boatlife caulk. A somewhat daunting task, but taken a bit at a time, is quite do-able. Persevere, and you will eventually be a very satisfied and leak-free 40.5 owner! All Good Wishes! Ron Hughes s/v "Best Revenge" H 40.5
Greetings Arthur! I also have a 40.5. If you have already satisfied yourself that the source of your leak is not the seals of your aftermost lockers, I would suggest that as a first step, you get a bottle of "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" at W. Marine or your local chandlery and try dripping very small amounts onto your backstay chainplates, electrical inlet, stern rail mountings etc.; any penetration of the area above your aft transom locker. In one of those spots the "cure" will almost certainly weep into an otherwise invisible leak and by capilary action, fill and stop it. My aftermost starboard toe rail bolt had a similar leak that was cured in this way. You must find and investigate any thru bolt or penetration of the transom that is above that locker. It is possible to climb into that locker, tho' somewhat of a claustrophobe's nightmare. I have done it to install a center cleat. Once inside, with the aid of a bright light, you may well be able to see the stain trail of the leak or some mildew coming down from above. It could also be coming in around your aft rubber bumper. Your only other alternative is to systematically remove and re-bed all of those fittings with 3M 4200 or Boatlife caulk. A somewhat daunting task, but taken a bit at a time, is quite do-able. Persevere, and you will eventually be a very satisfied and leak-free 40.5 owner! All Good Wishes! Ron Hughes s/v "Best Revenge" H 40.5
Tried all of that already
I even replaced the stern rub rail last year. This was a big job I must say, however I'm glad I did it. The lower part of the rail sits underwater when under power, and I found the beginings of delamination behind the rubber. It's interesting how the deck and hull are joined insofar as the hull is "finished", and the deck is oversize of it. They then trim one mold part to fit the other's contour. The problem is that this cut edge is unsealed, and water gets in. Beware. Potentially large problem. In any case, I have hung upside down in this locker for an hour or two, trying to isolate this leak. What I do is dry it completely, and then lay in dry paper towels. This of course is on a dry day. Sure enough, after a short while, there's about 1/4 inch of water around the forward partition of the locker at the juction where the partition meets the hull. It is defintely not dripping down the hull, or coming from the rub rail, as the rail is out of the water at that juncture. My opinion is that if it were a small hull leak, I would get the transom considerably more full than the 3-4 inches that collects. I've also considered the exhaust, although this happens when I am inspecting it with the engine off. I was thinking, maybe it's a leak in the fresh water system somewhere. There is the one FW tank on the starboard side aft. I should add, I'm very handy on boats, and there's virtually nothing I cannot diagnose. This has been a very confusing saga. In any case, I've solved a lot of other 40.5 owner's problems on this site. Maybe someone can now return me the favour.
I even replaced the stern rub rail last year. This was a big job I must say, however I'm glad I did it. The lower part of the rail sits underwater when under power, and I found the beginings of delamination behind the rubber. It's interesting how the deck and hull are joined insofar as the hull is "finished", and the deck is oversize of it. They then trim one mold part to fit the other's contour. The problem is that this cut edge is unsealed, and water gets in. Beware. Potentially large problem. In any case, I have hung upside down in this locker for an hour or two, trying to isolate this leak. What I do is dry it completely, and then lay in dry paper towels. This of course is on a dry day. Sure enough, after a short while, there's about 1/4 inch of water around the forward partition of the locker at the juction where the partition meets the hull. It is defintely not dripping down the hull, or coming from the rub rail, as the rail is out of the water at that juncture. My opinion is that if it were a small hull leak, I would get the transom considerably more full than the 3-4 inches that collects. I've also considered the exhaust, although this happens when I am inspecting it with the engine off. I was thinking, maybe it's a leak in the fresh water system somewhere. There is the one FW tank on the starboard side aft. I should add, I'm very handy on boats, and there's virtually nothing I cannot diagnose. This has been a very confusing saga. In any case, I've solved a lot of other 40.5 owner's problems on this site. Maybe someone can now return me the favour.
Checked the shower
Checked that. Also, I'm in lake ontario. Only salt is in my margarita. Anyone know of hull delamination in transom issues? Could water be coming through the glass?
Checked that. Also, I'm in lake ontario. Only salt is in my margarita. Anyone know of hull delamination in transom issues? Could water be coming through the glass?
Another 40.5
Arthur, Would like to help but can only add that I did get water in that aft locker. Our boat came without the latches on the locker lid installed and I didn't miss them. So after a really heavy rain (Texas monsoon) or from waves breaking over the stern offshore, water would enter under the loose locker lid. Hunter sent me 4 latches for free even though I was 6 months out of warranty. If you dry out the locker, with the boat in the slip, motor off, no rain, no wash down, aft water tank empty, water pump turned off do you still get 2 to 3" of water there and if so how fast. Also to properly check the port side of the locker for a source of the leak, you can remove the Propane locker for access but it is a bit of a "pane" in the rear but would allow you to lay down paper towels on both port and starboard side which might help pin point the source. Have you checked the propane locker vent hose fittings? Wish I could be of more help. Good luck in your search.
Arthur, Would like to help but can only add that I did get water in that aft locker. Our boat came without the latches on the locker lid installed and I didn't miss them. So after a really heavy rain (Texas monsoon) or from waves breaking over the stern offshore, water would enter under the loose locker lid. Hunter sent me 4 latches for free even though I was 6 months out of warranty. If you dry out the locker, with the boat in the slip, motor off, no rain, no wash down, aft water tank empty, water pump turned off do you still get 2 to 3" of water there and if so how fast. Also to properly check the port side of the locker for a source of the leak, you can remove the Propane locker for access but it is a bit of a "pane" in the rear but would allow you to lay down paper towels on both port and starboard side which might help pin point the source. Have you checked the propane locker vent hose fittings? Wish I could be of more help. Good luck in your search.
Aft leak
Does water find its way in at dock or when sailing or under power. Mine leaked when the transom 'squatted' under power because the previous owner drilled a hole through the rub rail to drain the stray water which collects in the rub rail groove. What he failed to notice was that he drilled across the V made by the transom and the underbody allowing water to enter when under power. Some sealant fixed the problem and the lockers are now dry. Good luck.
Does water find its way in at dock or when sailing or under power. Mine leaked when the transom 'squatted' under power because the previous owner drilled a hole through the rub rail to drain the stray water which collects in the rub rail groove. What he failed to notice was that he drilled across the V made by the transom and the underbody allowing water to enter when under power. Some sealant fixed the problem and the lockers are now dry. Good luck.
Happens at dock on a dry day.
Once again, this happens on a dry day, at dock. I totally dry out the compartment, and water just starts to pool up at the forward bulkhead base. Slowly, but surely. If I didn't know better, I'd almost think it was coming from the other side of the bulkhead under the bottom somehow, but there aren't and drainage holes there. It can't be the hatch seals, cause it's happening basically right in from of me. As mentioned, I've replace the rub rail, and sealed it very, very, well. I'm going to pull the propane locker to get better access. The only other thing I can think of is the fresh water tank leaking from the bottom. Any other ideas guys? I repeat as well that you 40.5 owners should really look at the joint under the rub rail at the water line. I avoided major problems, (I hope), by catching this early. I'm thinking of putting food dye in my aft water tank. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good color?
Once again, this happens on a dry day, at dock. I totally dry out the compartment, and water just starts to pool up at the forward bulkhead base. Slowly, but surely. If I didn't know better, I'd almost think it was coming from the other side of the bulkhead under the bottom somehow, but there aren't and drainage holes there. It can't be the hatch seals, cause it's happening basically right in from of me. As mentioned, I've replace the rub rail, and sealed it very, very, well. I'm going to pull the propane locker to get better access. The only other thing I can think of is the fresh water tank leaking from the bottom. Any other ideas guys? I repeat as well that you 40.5 owners should really look at the joint under the rub rail at the water line. I avoided major problems, (I hope), by catching this early. I'm thinking of putting food dye in my aft water tank. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good color?
Do I feel stupid
Thanks Larry for pointing out the error of my ways. I too (stupid, stupid, stupid) drilled a hole in the aft deck joint to let the water drain from the groove formed by the rub rail. It was one of the first things I did FIVE years ago BEFORE I became a SMART owner (Ha Ha). So any water around the hole found it's way into the locker. Authur, if you drain the aft water tank and depressure your water system you would know if they were the source of the leak. I would use blue dye. You mentioned that you thought water could come from the forward bulkhead of the locker but since the hull in running down hill at that point I don't think its likely (but then I am now known to be stupid). But you can check that area by going through the aft cabin bulkhead access door and using an inspection mirror. You may have to remove the battery charger to access the starboard side. While there, inspect the fiberglass on the aft side of the rudder tube where it joints the hull. Mine was poorly done and was actually slowly leaking seawater for years through tiny pin holes in the FG. Since the hull warranty is 5 years, Hunter fixed it in year 3 since it took me that long to find it. ALL 40.5 owners should check it, as well as those belly tanks for leaks since they are hard to spot (your have to pull up the cabin sole). I hope I haven't lost too much credibility by admitting HOW stupid I feel right now (but also happy because I found a leak source).
Thanks Larry for pointing out the error of my ways. I too (stupid, stupid, stupid) drilled a hole in the aft deck joint to let the water drain from the groove formed by the rub rail. It was one of the first things I did FIVE years ago BEFORE I became a SMART owner (Ha Ha). So any water around the hole found it's way into the locker. Authur, if you drain the aft water tank and depressure your water system you would know if they were the source of the leak. I would use blue dye. You mentioned that you thought water could come from the forward bulkhead of the locker but since the hull in running down hill at that point I don't think its likely (but then I am now known to be stupid). But you can check that area by going through the aft cabin bulkhead access door and using an inspection mirror. You may have to remove the battery charger to access the starboard side. While there, inspect the fiberglass on the aft side of the rudder tube where it joints the hull. Mine was poorly done and was actually slowly leaking seawater for years through tiny pin holes in the FG. Since the hull warranty is 5 years, Hunter fixed it in year 3 since it took me that long to find it. ALL 40.5 owners should check it, as well as those belly tanks for leaks since they are hard to spot (your have to pull up the cabin sole). I hope I haven't lost too much credibility by admitting HOW stupid I feel right now (but also happy because I found a leak source).
Thanks Mickey
I was thinking about drilling a hole at the base of the sugar scoop. Thanks for the heads up. I recently replaced my rub rail on our 40.5 and found the same problems, easy to fix, and hunter can walk you through replacing the rub rail. Mickey where exactly is your battery charger? Mine has been removed/never installed. Do you like where it is now? Thanks! Great info on how to troubleshoot problems.
I was thinking about drilling a hole at the base of the sugar scoop. Thanks for the heads up. I recently replaced my rub rail on our 40.5 and found the same problems, easy to fix, and hunter can walk you through replacing the rub rail. Mickey where exactly is your battery charger? Mine has been removed/never installed. Do you like where it is now? Thanks! Great info on how to troubleshoot problems.
Rudder tube a possibility
I'm going to check that. Did the boat have to be hauled to fix this? Could you describe in a little better detail the size of the leak? How much water did you get in over the course of a week? Isn't the rudder tube right up against the bulkhead? If not, how much space it here? If you have the original battery charger, I would suggest using it as an anchor. It will boil bateries more that charge them. Put in a Heart system with Link 2000R, You'll never regret it. If you need more install details, let me know. Gotta get rid of this leak.. driving me nuts.
I'm going to check that. Did the boat have to be hauled to fix this? Could you describe in a little better detail the size of the leak? How much water did you get in over the course of a week? Isn't the rudder tube right up against the bulkhead? If not, how much space it here? If you have the original battery charger, I would suggest using it as an anchor. It will boil bateries more that charge them. Put in a Heart system with Link 2000R, You'll never regret it. If you need more install details, let me know. Gotta get rid of this leak.. driving me nuts.
Would love more info on your charger
Sorry to ask an unrelated question on someone elses question. Arthur Boas, I would love to get more information about your battery charger, where you put it, how hard was it to hook up, did you do it yourself? Sounds like you like the Heart System, Why? I am getting ready to take on this project on our 1995 40.5 Hunter and would love ANY info. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Sorry to ask an unrelated question on someone elses question. Arthur Boas, I would love to get more information about your battery charger, where you put it, how hard was it to hook up, did you do it yourself? Sounds like you like the Heart System, Why? I am getting ready to take on this project on our 1995 40.5 Hunter and would love ANY info. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Sure, no problem
What I did was install a Heart Interface 20 amp charger / inverter. The place that I installed it was under the aft bunk, in the forward centre section, and on the aft wall. It just fits. I even had to cut down the excess length on the strut mounting which protrude up to make this happen, however this is a very solid place to mount such a heavy unit. On the wall where the charger used to be I mounted a Heart Interface Pathmaker combiner switch. This is a logigal area as it's close to the batteries. Combiners are great, as you never have to selectively charge batteries any more. On the same wall, you can mount the output fuse you will need from the Inverter. Next, I mounted the Link 2000 panel at the main electrical panel, and the new smart regulator with goes with the Link 2000R under the stairs, just above the engine. This is a fairly big job. but well worth it. If you are handy, and can get / borrow the right tools, it's not too bad. If you need any more info, let me know. a.boas@rogers.com
What I did was install a Heart Interface 20 amp charger / inverter. The place that I installed it was under the aft bunk, in the forward centre section, and on the aft wall. It just fits. I even had to cut down the excess length on the strut mounting which protrude up to make this happen, however this is a very solid place to mount such a heavy unit. On the wall where the charger used to be I mounted a Heart Interface Pathmaker combiner switch. This is a logigal area as it's close to the batteries. Combiners are great, as you never have to selectively charge batteries any more. On the same wall, you can mount the output fuse you will need from the Inverter. Next, I mounted the Link 2000 panel at the main electrical panel, and the new smart regulator with goes with the Link 2000R under the stairs, just above the engine. This is a fairly big job. but well worth it. If you are handy, and can get / borrow the right tools, it's not too bad. If you need any more info, let me know. a.boas@rogers.com
Thanks Arthur
I really appreciate the information, very helpful. As I get closer to the big job, I may drop you an e-mail, THANKS!!!!
I really appreciate the information, very helpful. As I get closer to the big job, I may drop you an e-mail, THANKS!!!!
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