For the hatch locking handles, can you post a picture of the broken one? We could then suggest some search terms to use on various vendor sites.
4 hours after buying a boat and already questions...
- Thread starter Kommy000
- Start date
1) So it rotates on a fastener on the short end, actuating a latch on the underside of the hatch?
2) Or did the right hand end in the picture use to look like the left hand end, so it is just a straight "pull-upwards-here-to-open-hatch" type of arrangement?
3) Is this a vent hatch in the cabin roof, an anchor locker hatch, or what?
If the answer to #1 is yes, I would search marine vendors for "locking latch handles", "hatch locks", or similar terms.
If the answer to #2 is yes, I would search marine vendors for "pulls", "locker pulls", "cabinet pulls", "hatch pull
There is an small chance that a search for "lifting rings" would get you in the right section of an online store. You could also call Marlow/Hunter. If it is for a vent hatch, you could also call the maker of that hatch. Good luck.
2) Or did the right hand end in the picture use to look like the left hand end, so it is just a straight "pull-upwards-here-to-open-hatch" type of arrangement?
3) Is this a vent hatch in the cabin roof, an anchor locker hatch, or what?
If the answer to #1 is yes, I would search marine vendors for "locking latch handles", "hatch locks", or similar terms.
If the answer to #2 is yes, I would search marine vendors for "pulls", "locker pulls", "cabinet pulls", "hatch pull
There is an small chance that a search for "lifting rings" would get you in the right section of an online store. You could also call Marlow/Hunter. If it is for a vent hatch, you could also call the maker of that hatch. Good luck.
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Here is my 0.2 cents. See the below link to "Industrial Purple" (IP). Available at any Home Depot. It is an extremely strong emulsifier. Back when my 1980's vintage car engines would actually get coated with grease/gunk due to typical leakage around the various gaskets, I would spray IE on the engine. Would wait a while. Then hose or pressure wash. The engine block would be spanking clean again.
On to your requirement. Perhaps put some into a garden sprayer. Direct into the areas you think old oil might be lurking. Do it a couple of times. Let sit for a while, but don't let dry. Then spray into the area with clean H20. Remove and PROPERLY dispose of the liquid residue extracted from of the bilge. While you are at it, you might want to spray, then stiff brush all of the bilge to also break up crud and oil stains that have built-up through the years. After the first removal of liquid, you should wash down again with fresh water.
Caveats about IE. The stuff is very caustic and can cause damage. Won't hurt fiberglass/gelcoat. Afterall, IE comes in a plastic bottle. But it will damage paint/varnish and interior teak cabinetry. So if you have any overspray, wipe off immediately = within seconds. (Have a wet sponge at the ready.) Also, for safety, wear latex/vinyl gloves and don eye goggles. If any gets on skin, wash off immediately. You won't notice anything initially, but a few days later the skin on your hands will start peeling.
On my 1980 Cherubini Hunter, prior to refinishing my interior teak, I used IE to remove years of teak oil and other build up. It accomplished the surface cleanup, but left the Hunter cherry stain intact. So afterwards I was able to simply rub on new teak oil for a nicely restored look. Also, I don't know if the 27's have the same vinyl "straw" wallpaper in the V-berth as I have on the 36'. Mine had become so coated with stains and grime, one could hardly tell the pattern of the wall paper. IP dissolved the dirt but didn't harm the vinyl at all. Result is almost original new. I had read on this forum that most remove the wallpaper. My outcome was much easier!
Here's the link: http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759
Hi Kommy,
I'm on a quest for a dry boat myself this summer and in the process I enlarged the holes in my bilge with an oscillating multi-tool to give me better access with a Shop Vac to suck the water out and let it dry better.
The other place to look for standing water is under the drawers in the galley. Pull out the bottom one and feel down inside, there may be water there also. The seacock for the sink drain is also back in there. You can also see the seacock and bottom of the drawers from the cockpit locker if you empty it out.
There was a suggestion somewhere in the Plumbing section to put soapy water in the bilge and then go sailing to slosh it around and clean out the bilge. I haven't done that yet, but it might be something consider doing after you get rid of the water & oil. Get oil absorbing sheets for under the engine.
Then hunt down the leaks...
I'm on a quest for a dry boat myself this summer and in the process I enlarged the holes in my bilge with an oscillating multi-tool to give me better access with a Shop Vac to suck the water out and let it dry better.
The other place to look for standing water is under the drawers in the galley. Pull out the bottom one and feel down inside, there may be water there also. The seacock for the sink drain is also back in there. You can also see the seacock and bottom of the drawers from the cockpit locker if you empty it out.
There was a suggestion somewhere in the Plumbing section to put soapy water in the bilge and then go sailing to slosh it around and clean out the bilge. I haven't done that yet, but it might be something consider doing after you get rid of the water & oil. Get oil absorbing sheets for under the engine.
Then hunt down the leaks...
Thats pretty much a copy of my bilge except I got a float switch. I'm surprised that those switches pump water only after 2 inches.
That's a smart idea to enlarge the holes connecting bilge sections. I'm gonna do that myself . I just ordered oil absorbent pads and will shove them in those new holes to get to oil first and then will do the detergent and water trick and take it out after. With the bigger holes I should be able to get my big shopvac and suck that out after.
That's a smart idea to enlarge the holes connecting bilge sections. I'm gonna do that myself . I just ordered oil absorbent pads and will shove them in those new holes to get to oil first and then will do the detergent and water trick and take it out after. With the bigger holes I should be able to get my big shopvac and suck that out after.