3M 5200? or 3M 4200

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Costy

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Mar 10, 2012
34
746 21 Seal Beach
I am not fammiliar with any of those products but I have heard about them,I was inquring @ Lowes abot them but my Lowes does not carry the 3M products any more.
What I need is something to seal the bumper that goes all around the boat right beneath it, the existing stuff (caulk) has hardened and is crumbling away.The bumper I am talking about is the black rubbery thing that surounds the boat and is about 1" wide.
If any one can help with a sugestion on what I can use I would very much appreciate it.

Thanks Costy:confused:
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,109
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Depending on what material the rub rail is made of, any of the Silkaflex urethanes or alternatively 4200 could be used. The 5200 is intended for only permanent stalls and obviously, this isn't one of those cases.
 

caguy

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Sep 22, 2006
4,004
Catalina, Luger C-27, Adventure 30 Marina del Rey
IMHO the Sikaflex urethane will work every bit as well as the 4200 but a lot cheaper.I was looking at some polyuethane that I used up on the roof to seal some joints and it looks as good and pliable as the day I put it on 5 years ago.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
5200 might just take the gelcote off when you try to remove it... so you better be sure you don't need to remove it.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
What about butyl tape? I got a 25' roll of it at my glass supplier for $6. They call it 440 tape. Watch out, it comes in black. Very messy! I stuck a piece of both the gray and the black to the hood of my white work van and left it there for a few days last week when it got warm. The black kind of separates and smudges on the white paint while the grey doesn't seem to leave much of a smudge and comes off with a bit of effort.
I will be using the grey butyl when I get the time to fix the leaks at my rub line. Good luck.
 

Doug J

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May 2, 2005
1,192
Hunter 26 Oceanside, CA
What about butyl tape? I got a 25' roll of it at my glass supplier for $6. They call it 440 tape. Watch out, it comes in black. Very messy! I stuck a piece of both the gray and the black to the hood of my white work van and left it there for a few days last week when it got warm. The black kind of separates and smudges on the white paint while the grey doesn't seem to leave much of a smudge and comes off with a bit of effort.
I will be using the grey butyl when I get the time to fix the leaks at my rub line. Good luck.
I just started using butyl tape. I used it when I recently installed a deck organizer. And will re-bed my mast tabernacle with it. I'm convinced it's a great way to go for hardware mounted through the deck, and other similar installations. But I don't think it's the right material to use for a rub rail.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
I have used 5200 as top sealer on many rub rails... DO NOT use it to bed the rail!!! you need to clean the surface well with solvent and then mask the rail and the gel coat. leave an 1/8 of and inch on either side of the actual joint and apply a small bead around the entire boat. then fair it out with your finger.... you will learn how much pressure you need to get it to fair out evenly..... in some spots you may need a bit more sealer to get it to fill and fair properly. once you are done fairing it out, pull the tape off.
then...... lightly run your finger around it once more to smooth the tape line..... you will then have a professional looking job.
if you ever need to pull the rail off for any reason after it cures, you can spray the seal with wd-40 and run a razor blade thru it like butter......
Sikkaflex, as mentioned is also good, but the most common stuff available is also an adhesive sealant and is considered a permanant bond when used correctly....

if you want to keep the water out forever, use the good stuff. just dont use more than you need.....
 
Sep 16, 2011
346
Venture 17 Hollywood,FL
I used 5200 to bond the hull to the deck. I used 4000uv to seal the rub rail to the hull. That 4000 is usefull just about everywhere as well.
 

Costy

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Mar 10, 2012
34
746 21 Seal Beach
Thanks guys, the problem is that the rub.Rail is flushed with the hull on top of the rail but beneath the rail I have gaps about 1/4" wide.
Will Silkaflex be runny in hot weather or is copletely stable once it hrdens? The boat will be parked in 100'-115' weather (this is the temp on the side of my house in July, Aug. Sep.
Wher can I get this product?
Thanks for all your help.
Costy
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Thanks guys, the problem is that the rub.Rail is flushed with the hull on top of the rail but beneath the rail I have gaps about 1/4" wide.
Will Silkaflex be runny in hot weather or is copletely stable once it hrdens? The boat will be parked in 100'-115' weather (this is the temp on the side of my house in July, Aug. Sep.
Wher can I get this product?
Thanks for all your help.
Costy
sikkaflex, and the 3M products will will be stabile.... although i have not used the 4200 or 4000, the sikkaflex and the 5200 will be very elastic and tough, which is the properties you need for your project....
 

gpdno

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May 16, 2011
144
Watkins 27 Venice
Costy said:
Thanks guys, the problem is that the rub.Rail is flushed with the hull on top of the rail but beneath the rail I have gaps about 1/4" wide.
Will Silkaflex be runny in hot weather or is copletely stable once it hrdens? The boat will be parked in 100'-115' weather (this is the temp on the side of my house in July, Aug. Sep.
Wher can I get this product?
Thanks for all your help.
Costy
My local Ace Hardware has it for about half the cost of West Marine. Also I believe McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com carries it.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
costy,
if you have large gaps, make sure you fill them a little and try to bring them up to almost level..... let it cure out before trying to put the top coat finish on it. do the topcoat finish seal all at the same time, after you have filled the large voids and let them cure first first.
trying to work with big gobs of the stuff in a large crevice will not allow you to put a nice finish on it. PLUS... even though the stuff is very thick, a large mass of it hanging upside down might sag out a bit before it has time to cure. a little at a time on the overhead work is better.
 

Costy

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Mar 10, 2012
34
746 21 Seal Beach
Thanks centerline I think that is a good idea.
I was able to get inside of the boat today and the recent rains showed me where water was getting inside so I am thinking of using the Silkaflex to re seat all the nuts and bolts on the boat you think is a good idea?

Thanks, Costy
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Thanks centerline I think that is a good idea.
I was able to get inside of the boat today and the recent rains showed me where water was getting inside so I am thinking of using the Silkaflex to re seat all the nuts and bolts on the boat you think is a good idea?

Thanks, Costy
that depends on how large the holes are that the bolts go thru. if the holes are oversize for the hardware that is in them, then sikkaflex will work good. if they are nice normal sized holes for the hardware, then silicone will work for several years and is easier to work with. the butyl sealer that people are talking about, if its the same as the industrial stuff, is excellent but never completly sets up..... the neat thing about it is, if you ever need to pull a piece of hardware in a wet condition, you can reinstall it in the wet condition and it will reseal itself without any prep work..... that is if its the true butyl rubber sealer. I have recently heard about the gray butyl.... I have used butyl for years for sealing underground vaults and i have never seen or heard of the gray stuff, so i cannot comment on its dependability.

sikkaflex will work fine but remember anything you seal down with it will be glued there for life if you have both surfaces clean..... like a flexable rubber epoxy.... so dont use any quantity more than you need to get it to seal.

keep in mind how difficult a silicone sealed bolt or washer is to remove from a properly prepared surface after it cures...... times that by 15 and you have sikkaflex. because it doesnt tear away from itself like silicone will do when you pull on it. there are a lot of good sealers on the market, but if the surface isnt prepared right, most of them will fail within a season or two... and it isnt the fault of the sealer itself, but its the fault of the sealer who is resealing his hardware.....:D
 

Costy

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Mar 10, 2012
34
746 21 Seal Beach
Hi everyone, I went to Home Depot, Lowes and ACE and no one even heard of the "silkaflex" or the "Butyl tape" I am stuck...
They were trying to sell me some rubber calking that stretches and would not crack but stays flexible and imposible to remove (only by scrapping) from fiberglass or anything that gets stuck to.
I will try Gahnal lumber this afternoon but if anyone has any idea where I can find the silkaflex would be great since I do not want to go with something that no one had any experience with.
Thanks Costy
 
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