Does anybody know how many cubic feet there are in the 37C? I'm trying to figure out what A/C unit to put in. Some dealers have told me I need 16K BTU's while others have said I want to use 12K and get a longer run time to dehumidify. Has anybody put a 12K unit on the 37C, and is it enough to cool the cabin?
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Ed Schenck
Probably 16K.
I have the 12K Mermaid on my H37C. I have no ductwork, it blows out under the nav station. It drops the temp about five degrees every twenty minutes. If you sit in the salon you are immediately comfortable even starting at 90+, mainly due to moving air and lower humidity. BUT I am on Lake Erie where the humidity averages less than 90% and the water temp never exceeds 75. The 16K Mermaid would have fit where I installed my 12K, in the aft cabin cabinet.
I have the 12K Mermaid on my H37C. I have no ductwork, it blows out under the nav station. It drops the temp about five degrees every twenty minutes. If you sit in the salon you are immediately comfortable even starting at 90+, mainly due to moving air and lower humidity. BUT I am on Lake Erie where the humidity averages less than 90% and the water temp never exceeds 75. The 16K Mermaid would have fit where I installed my 12K, in the aft cabin cabinet.
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Brian
How bout under lav sink
Ed, what type of locker do you have in the rear quarter berth? I have seen some 37C's with a full hanging locker in the rear. I have the dresser configuration and there doesn't look like there would be enough room there for the install. I do like your idea of having less ductwork, though. But, I was thinking of putting a 12K unit under the lav sink with one duct into the salon and one to the V-Berth. I shouldn't have very much ducting, but my main concern is the humidity in Md. I don't want a cold and damp boat. On the other hand, I don't want a hot and dry boat either. In extream conditions, I could close off the rear quarter berth to increase the cooling. Any thoughts??
Ed, what type of locker do you have in the rear quarter berth? I have seen some 37C's with a full hanging locker in the rear. I have the dresser configuration and there doesn't look like there would be enough room there for the install. I do like your idea of having less ductwork, though. But, I was thinking of putting a 12K unit under the lav sink with one duct into the salon and one to the V-Berth. I shouldn't have very much ducting, but my main concern is the humidity in Md. I don't want a cold and damp boat. On the other hand, I don't want a hot and dry boat either. In extream conditions, I could close off the rear quarter berth to increase the cooling. Any thoughts??
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Ed Allen
i am restling with the same numbers
Im trying to get a clear handle on what i need for my 37c in sunny florida. i like the idea of being able to run one on a honda gen set. one guy in this area says he runs about 16 or 17k on a 2000u honda. sure would like to look it over on a hot day. this is good input. thanks guys. ED A
Im trying to get a clear handle on what i need for my 37c in sunny florida. i like the idea of being able to run one on a honda gen set. one guy in this area says he runs about 16 or 17k on a 2000u honda. sure would like to look it over on a hot day. this is good input. thanks guys. ED A
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Ed Allen
Ed S.
id like to know if yours will run on the honda? when are you going to break free with a few bucks and pop for one?
id like to know if yours will run on the honda? when are you going to break free with a few bucks and pop for one?
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Ed Schenck
No incentive.
Here on Lake Erie you only need A/C in the marina. The island anchorages and sailing are always cool enough due to the 70 degree water temps. My dockmate has offered to let me try his but we never got around to it. Bottom line is I am very frugal. My '79 has the dresser-like cabinet. I removed the shelf in the middle and made another that is lower in that cabinet and goes all the way to the hull. That shelf has to be very sturdy. The drawer above remains and I only had to remove the doors to install. To install the 16K I think you might have to remove the side trim and then reinstall. I have seen or heard of three other installations. Tom H. installed on the cabin sole, starboard side between the table and settee. Then he build a bookcase over it and to the ceiling. Carl W. installed his under the vanity sink. Good spot because you can easily duct into the v-berth and salon. And under the galley sink. I was not willing to give up any more storage space for ducts. I use fans to direct the cold air if necessary but generally it is not. Having spent a lot of time in Florida, including summers in Key West, I would go with 16K below the M-D line.
Here on Lake Erie you only need A/C in the marina. The island anchorages and sailing are always cool enough due to the 70 degree water temps. My dockmate has offered to let me try his but we never got around to it. Bottom line is I am very frugal. My '79 has the dresser-like cabinet. I removed the shelf in the middle and made another that is lower in that cabinet and goes all the way to the hull. That shelf has to be very sturdy. The drawer above remains and I only had to remove the doors to install. To install the 16K I think you might have to remove the side trim and then reinstall. I have seen or heard of three other installations. Tom H. installed on the cabin sole, starboard side between the table and settee. Then he build a bookcase over it and to the ceiling. Carl W. installed his under the vanity sink. Good spot because you can easily duct into the v-berth and salon. And under the galley sink. I was not willing to give up any more storage space for ducts. I use fans to direct the cold air if necessary but generally it is not. Having spent a lot of time in Florida, including summers in Key West, I would go with 16K below the M-D line.
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Tom Hadoulias
16,000 btu works well in Florida...
I have a 16,000 btu reverse cycle unit made by Artic Marine Air out of Clearwater Fl. It is a great unit and works well despite the hot Florida summers. As Ed stated, I mounted mine between the mast and setee on the starboard side, it fits under the bunk rails and is not in the way. I ducted up to a distribution box which integrates with a bookshelf. The unit ducts into the main cabin and through the bulkhead into the head area. I also have a forward facing duct pointing into the forward cabin. The boat cools evenly and it will run with a 2kw Honda generator if you put an easy start on the compressor. I typically only use it at the dock but I plan on installing a genset later next year. The Honda was a friends that I borrowed just to see if it works. Personally, I wouldn't go this route as a portable generator is more trouble than I'm willing to put up with on a cruising sailboat but it's probably OK for occassional weekending or overnighters. My main problem has been in dealing with condensation from the evaporator. I ultimately plummed the evaporator drain to my shower sump as I didn't want condensate in the bilge. I'll try to post some pictures but this was the easiest way to install the system without giving up locker space and running ducts all over a crowded boat. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
I have a 16,000 btu reverse cycle unit made by Artic Marine Air out of Clearwater Fl. It is a great unit and works well despite the hot Florida summers. As Ed stated, I mounted mine between the mast and setee on the starboard side, it fits under the bunk rails and is not in the way. I ducted up to a distribution box which integrates with a bookshelf. The unit ducts into the main cabin and through the bulkhead into the head area. I also have a forward facing duct pointing into the forward cabin. The boat cools evenly and it will run with a 2kw Honda generator if you put an easy start on the compressor. I typically only use it at the dock but I plan on installing a genset later next year. The Honda was a friends that I borrowed just to see if it works. Personally, I wouldn't go this route as a portable generator is more trouble than I'm willing to put up with on a cruising sailboat but it's probably OK for occassional weekending or overnighters. My main problem has been in dealing with condensation from the evaporator. I ultimately plummed the evaporator drain to my shower sump as I didn't want condensate in the bilge. I'll try to post some pictures but this was the easiest way to install the system without giving up locker space and running ducts all over a crowded boat. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
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D. Prior
AC?
Air conditioning? It has been awhile since I needed that. The Pacific Northwest is not noted for high temperatures. we have HEATERS. When I had my 37C in Corpus Christi, Tx, AC was a necessity but as mentioned really only in the marina. I made a sloped box to fit between the fiberglass sides of the entrance companionway. I hung it on two 1/2 inch split hinges bolted to the port side of the companionway. It was made of 1/2inch marine plywood painted with white briteside enamel. I then installed a plastic window air conditioner in the back of the box. The box opened by swining like a door for entry. When I was sailing it hung under the chart table on another set of split hinges. Total cost was about $200 for the air conditioner and $40.00 for two set of hinges. The condensation water drained into the cockpit. There was no bottom on the box. The AC unit blew cold air up from the top which hit the slope of the top of the box and deflected into the main cabin. I set the slope of the top of the box to the same as the slope of the top of the forward part of the cockpit. It was a very trim unit that worked well for about 8 or ten years. It was stolen just before I moved to the Seattle area so there is an example out there somewhere. Fair winds Don
Air conditioning? It has been awhile since I needed that. The Pacific Northwest is not noted for high temperatures. we have HEATERS. When I had my 37C in Corpus Christi, Tx, AC was a necessity but as mentioned really only in the marina. I made a sloped box to fit between the fiberglass sides of the entrance companionway. I hung it on two 1/2 inch split hinges bolted to the port side of the companionway. It was made of 1/2inch marine plywood painted with white briteside enamel. I then installed a plastic window air conditioner in the back of the box. The box opened by swining like a door for entry. When I was sailing it hung under the chart table on another set of split hinges. Total cost was about $200 for the air conditioner and $40.00 for two set of hinges. The condensation water drained into the cockpit. There was no bottom on the box. The AC unit blew cold air up from the top which hit the slope of the top of the box and deflected into the main cabin. I set the slope of the top of the box to the same as the slope of the top of the forward part of the cockpit. It was a very trim unit that worked well for about 8 or ten years. It was stolen just before I moved to the Seattle area so there is an example out there somewhere. Fair winds Don
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Ed Allen
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