373 head bowl fills when secured

[Newport Bob]

After flushing, switching to "dry bowl", locking pump handle and closing water inlet thruhull - I return to boat a few days later and the bowl is 3/4 full.
I'm guessing that I need to replace the joker valve, but before I attack this smelly job has anyone had this problem? -- Solutions/ideas??
I don't like the arrangement with the hose going up 4 feet to the holding tank.

Bob

 

[Ron20324]

Is it "dirty" water in the bowl? I'd say pump alot of clean water through the sytem before you start the replacement, add some disenfectant cleaner to the mix as a premptive move.

 

[babbe]

I've seen this often

I had a Beneteau 373 for 3 years and replaced the joker valve three times. It always cured the symptoms you describe but it was a pain. I was told by a dealer that this was a common occurrence with 373's. It is an easy fix though. Five minute job.

 

[Tejas]

Here is a link to the Practical Sailor review of Joker Valves. Raritan was preferred. That's the valve we use after we found praise for the value on a 36.7 forum.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_31/features/Joker-Valves-for-Marine-Heads_11065-1.html

 

[DougM]

If its a Jabsco Head, it's more than likely the joker valve. The head is a POS to begin with. Seems like the joker valve has to be changed once per season. It's not that difficult, but there must be a better solution short of junking the head and replacing it.

 

[Newport Bob]

THANKS to ALL
In all our previous boats the s--t flowed downhill from the head to the holding tank - I was concerned about the upflow system before purchasing this spring. Looks like the solution is change the joker every spring. Not a big deal for such a great boat - opinion so far )
Any other ideas to improve this OR any other 373 items you have found are GREATLY appreciated.

Bob

 

[Bloodline]

New style jabsco head pushes down on the valve and the handle "locks" in place. I'm 6 months into it on our 373, so I can't say for sure if it's much better.

 

[Paul Mermelstein]

I have a 393 with a similar configuration. I used to change the joker every year, but I have been using the Raritan version and the Twist n Lock pumping mechanism. We also make sure we pump the toilet dry; about 10 pumps AFTER the head is emptied. You can hear the sound change to sucking air only. Two years so far without a problem.

 

[Philip_Oceanis 361]

We also make sure we pump the toilet dry; about 10 pumps AFTER the head is emptied. You can hear the sound change to sucking air only. Two years so far without a problem.

Yes, this is the solution to a common problem of holding tanks above heads. Keep pumping after the head is emptied in order to empty the hose running from the heads to the top of the holding tank.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Yes, this is the solution to a common problem of holding tanks above heads. Keep pumping after the head is emptied in order to empty the hose running from the heads to the top of the holding tank.

Correct. That's why the boat "engineers" can "get away" with putting holding tanks above the head. If you pump the line dry, it won't back up.

 

[Gunni]

The marine head and related waste management system has to be the most abused item on a sailboat.

1. If you inspect your system, you will likely find a very long hose run from the head to the tank. I use 1 pump stroke for each foot of hose (10ft = 10 strokes). If you are clearing the system of waste into the tank, you will want to flush this extended pumping with clean water. Most newbies give it three strokes and zip up.
2. There is also a flapper valve at the base of the pump. Both the flapper valve and joker valve get eaten up, swell and leak by the chemicals many people seem to think they need to dump in the head to keep it from smelling. Avoid that urge. No bleach. Use a small amount of vinegar and very a few spritzes of spray cleaner in a dry bowl. Allow the cleaner to react in the bowl before fresh flushing. Consider use of the new nitrate tank treatments, they keep your tank and hose aerobic (a good thing).
3. Do not leave antifreeze or alcohol in the head, it softens the valves and flapper. After your winterize the waste hoses open the waste hose to the pump, and open the bowl drain on the side of the bowl. Let all liquids drain out.
4. Read the manual:

 

[Lee Hadjiosif]

I have a 393 with a similar configuration. I used to change the joker every year, but I have been using the Raritan version and the Twist n Lock pumping mechanism. We also make sure we pump the toilet dry; about 10 pumps AFTER the head is emptied. You can hear the sound change to sucking air only. Two years so far without a problem.

Paul,
Can you elaborate on using the Raritan version. Will the Raritan joker valve fit the Jabsco head? Which model number. I've been wanting to replace the entire head with another brand, but don't know which other brand will fit. Any advise will be appreciated.
Lee
B381

 

[Paul Mermelstein]

The heads are Jabsco manual, with the Twist n Lock pump. The joker valve from Raritan does fit the Jabsco. While the Jabsco joker is a three-way opening, and black, the Raritan one is a duckbill shape and is red in color. The Jabsco opens a bit wider, but I have had no problems with the Raritan. Notwithstanding the recent review in Practical Sailor, I seem to have better longetivity with the Raritan valve. Sorry, I don't know the Raritan part number, but I originally found it somewhere in these posts so do a search. Or just go online to find it.