well now i've done it, after surviving Hurricane Charlie i was getting ready to move the boat for the first time and unknown to me some of the trash blown into the canals wound up wrapped around my shaft. Bent the shaft and the strut really badly( no i can't motor the boat ) luck was with me as i didn't rip the sturt right out of the boat...anyway i need to know if finding a strut is a problem considering the age of the boat 1979... i know i am going to have to pull the hot water heater as it sits over the access plate for the strut...I will call the insurance company tomorrow morning and make the claim and i guess i might as well claim the 3 stanchions and upper stay that i lost to the storm also if they will let me...anybody in the Charlotte Harbor area know of a good boatyard to do this kind of work....somebody told me that i can just the strut back into place ... is that possible thanks in advance chet p Hunter 37c Harriet's Chariot
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Strut is available I think.
I remembered some fairly recent threads and checked the archives. Related Link is one. The consensus is that is should be replaced, not straightened. Your water heater must be different or mounted differently. On my '79 the inspection port is behind the water heater. I once recaulked my strut and added a backing plate and new locknuts.
I remembered some fairly recent threads and checked the archives. Related Link is one. The consensus is that is should be replaced, not straightened. Your water heater must be different or mounted differently. On my '79 the inspection port is behind the water heater. I once recaulked my strut and added a backing plate and new locknuts.
thanks
ed you are right the access is behind the water heater but you can't be a 240# 58 year old and try to wiggle my fat a** down the lazerett and try to do anything behind the water heater i'll try to attach a photo of my engine job and water heater location
ed you are right the access is behind the water heater but you can't be a 240# 58 year old and try to wiggle my fat a** down the lazerett and try to do anything behind the water heater i'll try to attach a photo of my engine job and water heater location
this may sound funny but!
I just did the same job to mine here in tampa, you should change the strutt, I made a template and took it to general propellor in bradenton, they made a replacement and a new shaft to fit. it can be done without dropping the rudder. Im 240 and 58 too, its a bitch but you can get over the water heater to the bolts. two, used a small socket and extension to remove the bolts. If you want a place to do it, Apollo beach marina in tampa bay may be your best bet, they will haul and let you work. you could stay on the boat. put in a drive saver while your at it you will be glad you did. Ed A
I just did the same job to mine here in tampa, you should change the strutt, I made a template and took it to general propellor in bradenton, they made a replacement and a new shaft to fit. it can be done without dropping the rudder. Im 240 and 58 too, its a bitch but you can get over the water heater to the bolts. two, used a small socket and extension to remove the bolts. If you want a place to do it, Apollo beach marina in tampa bay may be your best bet, they will haul and let you work. you could stay on the boat. put in a drive saver while your at it you will be glad you did. Ed A
me too!
I got a sheet line caught in my shaft 2 years ago and tried to fix it myself.HUUUUUUUUGGGGGEEEEEEEEEE mistake! I bought a new stainless shaft and had the strut "straightened". I got the new shaft on and found out that when the shop straightened the strut the pitch changed. I took it back to the shop and explained the problem. They said that they couldnt be sure that heating it again wouldnt weaken it so much that it might break under pressure. So, I had to shim it down almost 3/4 of an inch so that the shaft would spin freely and I could finish out the season. Now it vibrates and I cant seem to find a new one. I too would really appreciate some help finding a new one. My advice to anyone in this situation is to use a new strut and pay someone to do the work. PS. Anyone know an easy way to get the water heater out without tearing open the cockpit?
I got a sheet line caught in my shaft 2 years ago and tried to fix it myself.HUUUUUUUUGGGGGEEEEEEEEEE mistake! I bought a new stainless shaft and had the strut "straightened". I got the new shaft on and found out that when the shop straightened the strut the pitch changed. I took it back to the shop and explained the problem. They said that they couldnt be sure that heating it again wouldnt weaken it so much that it might break under pressure. So, I had to shim it down almost 3/4 of an inch so that the shaft would spin freely and I could finish out the season. Now it vibrates and I cant seem to find a new one. I too would really appreciate some help finding a new one. My advice to anyone in this situation is to use a new strut and pay someone to do the work. PS. Anyone know an easy way to get the water heater out without tearing open the cockpit?
Strut
Yep, Dahmer Marine has the strut you need. Dahmer's phone # is in the link, New Jersey I think. The strut is supposedly marked on the long angled part, but I never found anything on mine. Dahmer will fax you a sheet to get the correct measurements for the right strut. Even with a new strut, you may need to shim, my new one had to be. Shaft and strut need to be positioned so the shaft is centered in the strut bearing and in the shaft log. Get an engine alignment at the same time. Might as well replace the stuffing box hose while you are back there. You might want to also consider Gene Gerunder's fix of reversing the strut bolts and tack welding a SS bar or bolt to the heads, easier to remove next time. I had this done. One last thing to check while you're back there having fun, feel the bottom of the fuel fill hose that runs over those strut bolts, mine had some chafe from the bolts. Not a lot, but I will replace it when I clean the fuel tank soon. Rob, depending on the size of the water heater, it should come out the stbd laz. On my 37c the wall is mostly gone on the stbd side, but I had to remove a large battery box first, 6 gal Seaward(?) water heater came out OK. Good luck. Val
Yep, Dahmer Marine has the strut you need. Dahmer's phone # is in the link, New Jersey I think. The strut is supposedly marked on the long angled part, but I never found anything on mine. Dahmer will fax you a sheet to get the correct measurements for the right strut. Even with a new strut, you may need to shim, my new one had to be. Shaft and strut need to be positioned so the shaft is centered in the strut bearing and in the shaft log. Get an engine alignment at the same time. Might as well replace the stuffing box hose while you are back there. You might want to also consider Gene Gerunder's fix of reversing the strut bolts and tack welding a SS bar or bolt to the heads, easier to remove next time. I had this done. One last thing to check while you're back there having fun, feel the bottom of the fuel fill hose that runs over those strut bolts, mine had some chafe from the bolts. Not a lot, but I will replace it when I clean the fuel tank soon. Rob, depending on the size of the water heater, it should come out the stbd laz. On my 37c the wall is mostly gone on the stbd side, but I had to remove a large battery box first, 6 gal Seaward(?) water heater came out OK. Good luck. Val
Dave Wilson just got one!
Chet: Dave Wilson just purchsed on from a company in NJ. I will have him give you the info.
Chet: Dave Wilson just purchsed on from a company in NJ. I will have him give you the info.
Strut access.
I have no problem(6'1" and 200+) getting behind the water heater and into the strut access hole. Do you guys all have the quarterberth door? I also visited Mike Alge once when he had that entire starboard engine bulkhead removed. He said it was easy to take the whole thing out to work on the water heater and strut from the starboard lazarette. But I think I could take my water heater out the port side from the q-berth. But it is not necessary to remove the water heater to replace the strut.
I have no problem(6'1" and 200+) getting behind the water heater and into the strut access hole. Do you guys all have the quarterberth door? I also visited Mike Alge once when he had that entire starboard engine bulkhead removed. He said it was easy to take the whole thing out to work on the water heater and strut from the starboard lazarette. But I think I could take my water heater out the port side from the q-berth. But it is not necessary to remove the water heater to replace the strut.
Just bought one
I called Hunter and they sent me to: Dahmer Marine Hardware 101 Park Avenue Union Beach, NJ 0775 732-264-5799 Voice 732-264-5963 Fax dahmermarine@aol.com Email The strut you want is an H34 with bearing. It cost $280.35 plus shipping. No need to have one special made, they'll have it in your hands tomorrow.
I called Hunter and they sent me to: Dahmer Marine Hardware 101 Park Avenue Union Beach, NJ 0775 732-264-5799 Voice 732-264-5963 Fax dahmermarine@aol.com Email The strut you want is an H34 with bearing. It cost $280.35 plus shipping. No need to have one special made, they'll have it in your hands tomorrow.
Also consider a stern tube
Chet, You might also consider a new stern tube as long as you're changing the strut and shaft. That's what my yard here in California advised. Again, Hunter sent me to: Southeastern Foundries Corporation 2706 Oakland Ave. Greensboro, NC 27403 336-299-7211 Talk to Debbie. The part you'll need is a Hunter part number - HM-312930 1 3/4 inch thru hull. Cost $30.00 plus shipping. They too can have this in your hands by tomorrow.
Chet, You might also consider a new stern tube as long as you're changing the strut and shaft. That's what my yard here in California advised. Again, Hunter sent me to: Southeastern Foundries Corporation 2706 Oakland Ave. Greensboro, NC 27403 336-299-7211 Talk to Debbie. The part you'll need is a Hunter part number - HM-312930 1 3/4 inch thru hull. Cost $30.00 plus shipping. They too can have this in your hands by tomorrow.
Strut
We had to pull our strut last yr to change out a cutlass bearing, didn't want to pull the rudder just to pull the shaft...It is do able without pulling the hot water heater..6 ft yard monkey with 8 ft arms would be a help... Grin... But a 5 ft 8, 200+ chubby guy can do it too... I did the Gene Gruder fix as well while we had it apart..Now you can pull and drop it without having to squeeze into too tight a space...(Pictures are available upon request) Semper Fi Ed S/V MYST
We had to pull our strut last yr to change out a cutlass bearing, didn't want to pull the rudder just to pull the shaft...It is do able without pulling the hot water heater..6 ft yard monkey with 8 ft arms would be a help... Grin... But a 5 ft 8, 200+ chubby guy can do it too... I did the Gene Gruder fix as well while we had it apart..Now you can pull and drop it without having to squeeze into too tight a space...(Pictures are available upon request) Semper Fi Ed S/V MYST
thanks all
thanks all...i have contacted my insurance company and unless they deny my claim i will get them to do it...i'm still trying to get my roof replaced so i don't have time to be messing with the boat. I do like the idea of having the ability to unbolt it from below as has been discussed and may recommend that to the guy who does the work. i did have a drive saver and i guess it helped. will try and change the stuffing box at the same time and maybe even go for the dripless type. will need the engine realigned and have to check the prop for problems also thanks again to everyone chet
thanks all...i have contacted my insurance company and unless they deny my claim i will get them to do it...i'm still trying to get my roof replaced so i don't have time to be messing with the boat. I do like the idea of having the ability to unbolt it from below as has been discussed and may recommend that to the guy who does the work. i did have a drive saver and i guess it helped. will try and change the stuffing box at the same time and maybe even go for the dripless type. will need the engine realigned and have to check the prop for problems also thanks again to everyone chet
I'm glad I was able to help!
I'll tell you, it makes it worth it to do the work on the website when I find that it is a help to people. I'm glad some of my wild ideas have helped out. You've made my day.
I'll tell you, it makes it worth it to do the work on the website when I find that it is a help to people. I'm glad some of my wild ideas have helped out. You've made my day.
Dripless Stuffing Box
Chet, I am having one put on my new "old" boat. The yard in Sausalito is taking care of it. But, the HOW site has this item in the Chandlery in the Boat Care section. PSS Shaft Seal Shaft diameter: 1 inch Stern tube diameter: 1-3/4 inch Item number 20012 $179.95 Good luck and I hope your roof gets taken care of quickly. Dave
Chet, I am having one put on my new "old" boat. The yard in Sausalito is taking care of it. But, the HOW site has this item in the Chandlery in the Boat Care section. PSS Shaft Seal Shaft diameter: 1 inch Stern tube diameter: 1-3/4 inch Item number 20012 $179.95 Good luck and I hope your roof gets taken care of quickly. Dave
Shaft saver
While your at it put a shaft saver on, make for lots less vibration insulates the motor from the shaft, and it will break if you get something in the prop before hopefully the strut bends the next time. You will need to plan carefully and use a shorter shaft. well worth the money
While your at it put a shaft saver on, make for lots less vibration insulates the motor from the shaft, and it will break if you get something in the prop before hopefully the strut bends the next time. You will need to plan carefully and use a shorter shaft. well worth the money
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