356 fridge insulation?

[Neil Spooner]

Sorry, another Q' regarding my 356.
Has anyone addressed the lack of insulation on the fridge boxes? I have seen the Factory "fixes" but am unsure if there is any, or just a lack of sufficient insulation.
I only have a vertical evap' in the LH box with an ice tray shelf bent into the top of it, and no way I can see for any cooling effect to be felt in the RH box.
Thanks Guys!
Neil

 

[Bob 04 H260]

There should be a spill over fan between the two boxes. It blows air from the top of the freezer to top of fridge, draws air through the hole connecting them on the bottom. The freezer has a thermostat set well below freezing, the spill over fan has a thermostat in the fridge set for 38*F. Let us know if that is how yours is set up.
Most like to buy wireless thermometers to keep track of the temps in each box.
http://www.amazon.ca/AcuRite-Digita...45918418&sr=1-4&keywords=Wireless+thermometer
Use a piece of paper to test the seals around the lids, replace seals if the paper pulls out too easily.

Jim on Java re-insulated his system by cutting an access hole in the back of the settee. He wrote it up here,
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/ice-box-insulation-problem.152212/#post-1024999

On our system the spill over fan thermostat ran off the freezer thermostat power, so it could only run when the freezer got warm, the second issue was the spill over fan thermostat would not turn on until 40*F and not turn off until 30*F. Too much hysteresis. We replaced it with a cheap electronic thermostat running directly off 12 volts and fridge is much better.
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00J4BJMLE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Bob

 

[Jerry Clark H356 SV Persi]

Ours works fine with the insulation from the factory. It may take a while to get used to the settings. Buy a wireless thermometer and monitor your readings. On a six month cruise, we had to defrost only once.

You do have to be careful not to block the transfer hole between the two boxes so the air from the freezer side moves over to the refrigerator side. Also make sure you put a stopper in the drain hole. The stopper makes a difference.

 

[Neil Spooner]

Thank you again Gents,
I am quite sure there is no transfer hole, and even more sure there is no fan.
The electronic T'stat you used Bob is the same as I used in my Griffon rather than the one that came in the kit, very good.
So I have lots to do!
The boat is new to me (March 2002 built USA) and has been severely neglected, never ventilated and never really sailed (about 100hrs on engine).
Got to do:
Window leaks,
Dodgy davits,
Lots of black mould on the woodwork (oxalic acid is the first step, if no joy re-veneer).
Rotten floor under the main table (new sole panel, who supplies the striped sole?)
Perpex crazed on all windows inc' hatches,
Sail drive main hull seal replace,
All sea cocks seized open.
Sails stained with mildew (never removed for winter, never really been out)
Replace running rigging.
Insulate fridge.
Install engine vents.
Improve seals on sugar-scoop lockers to prevent ex' gas entering boat.
Modify the main sheet location.

Would like to do:
Bowthruster
Autopilot
Larger Bruce with more chain
Nicro solar vents front and rear
Double solar panels, probably on hatch house
Fit GPS console in "hoop".
Increase engine insulation (the engine cover does not meet the bulkhead for about 30%)
Cubby box in the entrance step.
Improved duck boards, possible double bi-fold doors.
Flap on port side of main table, may reduce the size of the table.(Like Patrik did)
Splash back on galley top.
Insulate hot air hoses from Eberspecher and fit hose to suck air from the main cabin rather than pull in "fresh" air from the locker.
Replace all bulbs with LED (most people think LED means Light Emitting Diode...it actually means Little Electric Doodah!)


So you could say I have a busy winter coming up!!

Thanks again for your help and support.
Neil

 

[Ken Cross]

Wow Neil, busy winter. Best of luck.