It is that time of year when I will be heading to the yard. I know first on my mind is to replace the packing gland with a dripless version. But I have an old salt on my dock that swears by the old style. The trouble is that when I went to replace the seals with new ones, I couldn't get to them. I understand there is a shield (like a fender washer of sorts) and I couldn't get that puppy out to safe my life. Anyone know about this or had the same experience. I liveaboard so I don't want to keep tearing up my berth because I have to deal with drips from the packing gland. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Dripless
Dripless systems are very overpriced and very over rated. Put teflon flax in your current stuffing box and it will last ten years ----- or---- spend hundreds of dollars, haul the boat, remove the coupling, shaft and maybe the rudder. OK forget the hundreds, it may hit a grand. Oh yeah, the dripless system will need periodic maintenance and may fail or have bellows problems. Repack the gland and go sailing
Dripless systems are very overpriced and very over rated. Put teflon flax in your current stuffing box and it will last ten years ----- or---- spend hundreds of dollars, haul the boat, remove the coupling, shaft and maybe the rudder. OK forget the hundreds, it may hit a grand. Oh yeah, the dripless system will need periodic maintenance and may fail or have bellows problems. Repack the gland and go sailing
Well
the dripless system is ok. But all systems have to be inspected and maintained properly. Failure of the bellows on a dripless is a disaster. Being so, I prefer the dry bilge and a inspection policy for the bellows. I had mine changed out during a bottom paint job about 8 years ago.
the dripless system is ok. But all systems have to be inspected and maintained properly. Failure of the bellows on a dripless is a disaster. Being so, I prefer the dry bilge and a inspection policy for the bellows. I had mine changed out during a bottom paint job about 8 years ago.
IS the Teflon dripless as well
I have the teflon (came with my 2003 h326) the system does drip a bit... Can I tighten it to no drip? thanks
I have the teflon (came with my 2003 h326) the system does drip a bit... Can I tighten it to no drip? thanks
Teflon/Flax Dripless Seal
Ed, About 4 years ago I changed my regular 3-flax ring shaft packing to the Teflon/Flax Dripless kind and it has worked fine ever since. If it does have a little drip, you can tighten it a little just until no more drips - don't overtighten. In putting the Teflon/Flax packing, you need to get out the round (plastic) packing disk and all three of the old flax rings. Put in one new flax packing ring (joint cut on an angle) then the equivelent amount of the green 'Teflon' putty coumpound, the one more flax packing ring. Lastly the disk goes in then the nut and hand tighten just enough to stop any drips. You may have to retighten slightly after a few hours of engine/shaft run time. The cost of the 'packing coumpound 'kit' was about $55 plus the flax packing material. I never regretted the change. No drips and a dry bilge (at least until the the cooling sea water vacuum break started leaking - but thats another story). Dick
Ed, About 4 years ago I changed my regular 3-flax ring shaft packing to the Teflon/Flax Dripless kind and it has worked fine ever since. If it does have a little drip, you can tighten it a little just until no more drips - don't overtighten. In putting the Teflon/Flax packing, you need to get out the round (plastic) packing disk and all three of the old flax rings. Put in one new flax packing ring (joint cut on an angle) then the equivelent amount of the green 'Teflon' putty coumpound, the one more flax packing ring. Lastly the disk goes in then the nut and hand tighten just enough to stop any drips. You may have to retighten slightly after a few hours of engine/shaft run time. The cost of the 'packing coumpound 'kit' was about $55 plus the flax packing material. I never regretted the change. No drips and a dry bilge (at least until the the cooling sea water vacuum break started leaking - but thats another story). Dick
I just repacked my shaft.....
with the Teflon flax, $8.99, $1 more than the regular flax at WM. I put 4 layers in and still had 3/4" of threads left. I have a 1" shaft, and used 3/16" flax. I'm still on the hard until I finish painting my bottom. The "old" packing was like dryer lint with a few strands of thread in it. Guess I REALLY needed it. No wonder it leaked. But, we just bought the boat. I have no idea how long it had been since it was last repacked, probably 5 years, as the prop shaft was replaced about then.
with the Teflon flax, $8.99, $1 more than the regular flax at WM. I put 4 layers in and still had 3/4" of threads left. I have a 1" shaft, and used 3/16" flax. I'm still on the hard until I finish painting my bottom. The "old" packing was like dryer lint with a few strands of thread in it. Guess I REALLY needed it. No wonder it leaked. But, we just bought the boat. I have no idea how long it had been since it was last repacked, probably 5 years, as the prop shaft was replaced about then.
GFO fibre packing
I have used the GFO Fibre packing (made by Gore - same company that makes Gore-tex) for several years and am very happy with it. It is virtually drip free once adjusted since it is a graphite packing and requires little or no water for lubrication. Much cheaper than a dripless seal and you don't have to worry about the bellows (costs approx $20.00). www.gore.com
I have used the GFO Fibre packing (made by Gore - same company that makes Gore-tex) for several years and am very happy with it. It is virtually drip free once adjusted since it is a graphite packing and requires little or no water for lubrication. Much cheaper than a dripless seal and you don't have to worry about the bellows (costs approx $20.00). www.gore.com
Shaft cooling
...I thought that the dripping is necessary to cool the shaft while the prop is turning, about 1 drip every 15 seconds, is this correct?, if it is then you want it to drip, drip, drip, drip Gene
...I thought that the dripping is necessary to cool the shaft while the prop is turning, about 1 drip every 15 seconds, is this correct?, if it is then you want it to drip, drip, drip, drip Gene
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